Posts for November 26th 2012

Balenciaga

Nicolas Ghesquière Might Not Get His Own Line After All

Speculation abounds about what Nicolas Ghesquière's life will look like after he leaves Balenciaga, but there are some in the industry who aren't confident he'll be able to start a signature label.

Speculation abounds about what Nicolas Ghesquière's life will look like after he leaves Balenciaga, but there are some in the industry who aren't confident he'll be able to start a signature label.

"I don't see private equity or hedge funds backing (a Ghesquière) brand, because of time horizon and fashion risk," said Pierre Mallevays of the London investment bank Savigny Partners in an interview with WWD. "Only a strong group with a confident vision and the means to boot would seriously contemplate that. The temptation for any such potential backer will be to try to apply Ghesquière's talent to an established brand with operating leverage, not just to a start-up, however prestigious."

Mallevays is one of a number of financiers and other business experts who said starting a brand from scratch — even a brand built on a talent like Ghesquière's — is a risky proposition. Their commentary comes on the heels of Karl Lagerfeld saying it wouldn't be "a bad idea" for Ghesquière to start his own line, as well as rumors that Bernard Arnault and LVMH have already offered him the ability to do so.

Sources claiming to be close to Ghesquière say he'll take a break from designing but has been "seriously considering" starting his own brand and is open to working for another house.

Photo: Nicolas Ghesquière in the March 2010 issue of Numéro.

Link Time

Ferragamo's Cyber Monday Celebration; More Info on Leandra Medine's Book

Your daily news roundup.


Your daily news roundup.

  • In celebration of Cyber Monday, Ferragamo has not only relaunched and redesigned its website, but it has also issued a special line of Gancio bags to shop. [Fashionologie Inbox]
  • Christopher Bailey cites Apple as a source of inspiration for tech-minded brand Burberry. "They're incredibly consistent," he said. "I love the fact that it is a world that you enter where you get immersed in their point of view." [The Telegraph]
  • Runway to Win, Anna Wintour's fashion-based presidential fundraiser, brought in $40 million for the Obama campaign. [Business Week]
  • Jaeger has appointed a new head of womenswear design. [Vogue UK]
  • Mick Jagger's costumes for The Rolling Stones' 50 & Counting tour were made by none other than his longtime partner, L'Wren Scott. [WWD]
  • Leandra Medine says she would like her upcoming book to be titled Don't Worry I'm Wearing Overalls. [Guest of a Guest]

  • Instagram's influence on fashion may be expanding past trend forecasting. [NY Times]
  • Grace Coddington sat down with Sarah Mower to discuss her just-released book, Grace: A Memoir. [Vogue UK]

  • It turns out Paul Solomons is not heading to Cosmopolitan after all. After initially accepting Joanna Coles's offer, Solomons has ultimately decided to stay at British GQ. [WWD]

YSL

Who's That Girl? Saskia de Brauw Stars in Saint Laurent Men's Campaign

Rather than casting a male model for his first Saint Laurent menswear campaign, Hedi Slimane hired Saskia de Brauw, the 31-year-old Chanel favorite, who appeared in last year's Pirelli Calendar.
Saskia de Brauw in Saint Laurent Spring 2013 Men's Campaign

Rather than casting a male model for his first Saint Laurent menswear campaign, Hedi Slimane hired Saskia de Brauw, the 31-year-old Chanel favorite, who appeared in last year's Pirelli Calendar.

Slimane styled and photographed de Brauw for the campaign last month in Los Angeles. When the brand revealed the first images from the campaign online late last week, it noted that there wasn't a makeup artist or hairstylist on set, allowing de Brauw's natural androgyny to shine through in the pictures. That makes sense for this campaign: When Slimane designed Dior Homme, his skinny suits for men were so popular that women snapped them up as well, and now all the pieces in this campaign will be available for both genders in January 2013.

The ads are also the public's first look at Slimane's menswear for Saint Laurent. In May, the house announced that only buyers would see Slimane's first women's resort and men's Spring collection so that he could make his formal debut at his Spring 2013 women's show in Paris.

Photos courtesy of Saint Laurent

Hermes

Comme des Hermès: Rei Kawakubo Redesigns Iconic Scarves

The latest designer partnership to make the news isn't a mass market effort.



The latest designer partnership to make the news isn't a mass market effort. Instead, Rei Kawakubo has channeled what she calls an "immense respect for Hermès' tradition and artisanal know-how" into two capsule collections of carrés, the French company's iconic silk scarves.

"During this joint project, rather than being guided by the idea of the scarf as it is worn, I became interested instead in the beautiful 'artworks' that the designs on Hermès carrés represent, and I sought to change them by adding elements," Kawakubo said. "By combining them with abstract images, we have transformed the carré and created a unique object."

Both collections, one featuring black and white designs and one with colorful geometric patterns, will be available in February. The five black and white scarves will retail for €380 (or $493 at current exchange) at the Comme des Garcons stores in the Aoyama neighborhood of Tokyo, and in New York and Paris. Six color scarves will range from €380 to €1,600 (about $2,076) at the Dover Street Markets in London and Tokyo.

Kawakubo is noted for a number of high-profile collaborations with brands like H&M and Louis Vuitton, but an Hermès product partnership is harder to come by. Perhaps that's changing, though: news also broke today that Hermès is lending one of its scarf designs to the French postal service's annual Valentine's Day stamp collection.

Related: A Look Back at Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garcons
Photo courtesy of Comme des Garcons