Maiyet's seamless marriage of old world craftsmanship and modern luxury came in the form of lush jungle hues and breezy shapes inspired by the "rich indigenous culture and the vast natural wonders" of Peru for Spring 2013. Slip dresses, maxi skirts, and slouchy pants were loose and easy, while militaristic jackets, camp shirts, t-shirt dresses, and asymmetrical wrap skirts added structure. The collection's real stars, however, were the fabrics. Whether adorned with intricate monochrome embroidery or ever-so delicately perforated in lace-like swirls, they were not only dreamy but also expertly handled.
Posts for October 1st 2012
Hedi Slimane's much-anticipated debut collection for Saint Laurent was heavy on '70s rock and roll glamour, tinged with a little bit of darkness. Or, to be more accurate, a lot of darkness: most of the clothes the house's new creative director sent down the runway were black. And while the show contained veiled references to Yves Saint Laurent's work (a strong-shouldered take on Le Smoking, for example, was the first thing to come down the runway, and there were lots of tiered, sheer lace dresses, wide-brimmed hats, and even allusions to the safari-style clothing the founder called Saharienne), by and large, this collection was an exercise in Slimane doing things his way.
Take for example the slim tailored suiting and skinny trousers, hallmarks of Slimane's days designing menswear for Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. Then there were the references to his adopted home in California and its music scene. In suede fringe jackets, loopy bow ties, and generous fur coats, some of the models looked like they'd just performed at a concert and were getting back into their limos, ready to be whisked back to their hotels.
Speaking of concerts, the show was held in a darkened room and opened with the lights turning up — much the same way musicians are revealed on stage. And after a selection of the solid black looks, Slimane closed the show with sleek evening gowns in pale blue, red, teal, and a variety of other colors. It was, literally and figuratively, a bright way to end Slimane's first show for the brand.
After the earlier part of the week's torrential downpours and frigid winds, the fashion gods lightened up a bit and finally let the sun shine down. And thank goodness, because it really doesn't get much better than a sunny Fall in Paris. Throw in the excitement of Raf Simons's first ready to wear show at Dior (and the bevy of style stars that turned out for the occasion), the CFDA's Americans in Paris presentation (with familiar faces Suno, Cushnie et Ochs, and more), and Chloé's 60th anniversary show (where the clothes were so light and gorgeous that they nearly floated off the runway) and it all adds up to some pretty amazing Paris Fashion Week days. Click through to catch up on all the fun — plus all the beautiful sights and drool-worthy treats — from the weekend in Paris, here.
The video, shot against a stark white backdrop, extends the precious few images the designer released a few weeks ago into a look at the full collection. The offering matches the initial reviews: aggressive, strappy boots; scoop-back dresses with plenty of sex appeal; lush cocktail dresses; and pencil skirts that zip up the back are all well-highlighted in the video: The '60s feel of the collection is, too: all of the models wear beehive buns and the footage is set to a rambunctious drum solo.
A look at the full collection in the video below.
With the glass ceiling of the big tent open to the Tuileries sky and the house packed right up to the rafters with the likes of Rachel Zoe, Giovanna Battaglia, and Bryan Boy, the atmosphere at the Chloé Spring 2013 show couldn't have been more upbeat. There was certainly plenty to celebrate: Not only does this year mark the 60th anniversary of the brand, but the collection that Claire Waight Keller sent down the runway was so lovely and fresh it can now be counted among one of her best.
Volume, ruffles, and light-as-air fabrics were the focus, but in a clean palette of white, black, apricot, ochre, and navy, the overall result was crisp rather than overwhelming. Tiered dresses in organza and tulle were sculpted into rounded shapes with curved hems, while oversized trousers and full bermuda shorts in tussah silk were controlled with artful pleating around the waist and hips. A sprinkling of flower cutouts — which decorated one full leg on a pair of pants as well as the front of a folded bubble mini skirt — added texture and whimsy, and the final series of ruffled dresses looked modern but utterly ethereal.
"We went through dozens of looks and shots, but it never once seemed like a chore," Rocha said. "Zac sat to the side hand-selecting show tunes for me to dance around to."
In a behind-the-scenes video shot by Rocha's husband, James Conran, the designer and model dance around to Liza Minnelli's "New York, New York" — but not before talking about how useful it is to have friends in a business where each new assignment can sometimes feel just like the last.
"In a very transient and oftentimes flaky industry, it's been so comforting to work with Zac season after season, through good times and bad," Rocha said off camera.
"We all work so hard, striving for perfection," Posen added. "It's nice to be able to laugh and entertain each other in these fun, candid moments."
A look at these two friends doing just that in the video below.
A distinctly minimalist bend gave Giambattista Valli's Spring 2013 collection a cleaner, more refined edge than clothing he's shown in past seasons — but his signature flair for decoration was still very present. Take, for example, the simple sheer white shift dress decorated with beaded vines and rectangular white flower petals, or the lace applied to a red cocktail dress. None of these embellishments looked heavy. In fact, they appeared light as air, and so did Valli's sharply tailored suiting and a variety of garments in a tweed-like gold fabric dotted with round rhinestones. This collection was pretty, and also pretty cleaned up.
Stella McCartney's no-fuss approach to modern dressing was on right on track for Spring 2013.
Playing with proportion, McCartney mixed volume — boxy warm-up jackets, round-shouldered pullovers, wide-sleeved tops — with elongated skirts and slouchy trousers for a laid-back, sporty feel. In sheer fabrics — organza, plissé, eyelet — the effect was light and crisp; the palette of white, black, and navy accented by pops of citrus and lime kept it cheerful and fresh.