Posts for September 15th 2011
>> Marc Jacobs Spring 2012 was the swan song to this season's New York Fashion Week — and even though the designer's collection is always one of the most anticipated of the season, this time around the buzz surrounding it felt a bit more frenzied. Maybe it was the Irene-induced time slot switch-around, or the swirling rumours regarding Jacobs possibly leaving Vuitton for Dior — or maybe it was the fact that three hours before the show was to start, the designer canceled all backstage press access. Not a photo texted, not a beauty look revealed. The only pre-show peeps were from the models, who tweeted that it was eerily calm backstage without the usual circus of media.
And so it was that the show started — 30 minutes late, breaking its seasons-long punctuality record. On a wood-planked runway, gold-lamé curtains parted, revealing a theatrical tableau of rainbow-lit models posed on high-backed chairs. One by one, each girl marched down the runway to a Phillip Glass counting and chanting. The look was retro and a bit surreal — prim '20s with a touch of '90s space-cowboy thrown in for good measure. Silhouettes stayed straightforward, save for an bubble-ruffle here or a pleated frill there. Necklines were crew, sleeves were cropped, and hemlines hit at the knee. For fabrics, Jacobs played with reflections and transparency, mixing materials that were glittery, shiny, or iridescent with checks and gingham. Reinforcing the intergalactic western vibe were high-heeled cowboy boots in clear vinyl and silver.
>> Long-sleeved, loose silk shifts and shirtdresses seemed the order of the day yesterday — in black, white, and in the case of Elin Kling, tan. Slightly more suprising? The resurgence of bubble skirts among Fashion Week attendees: Alexa Chung and Leelee Sobieski were both sporting them to Proenza Schouler last night. See all the aforementioned looks — plus peeks at what Sofia Coppola, Mary Kate Steinmiller, and Catherine Baba wore to the shows yesterday — in the slideshow.
>> This season, Ralph Lauren returned to classic Americana, trotting out a solid collection of '20s-tinged separates and eveningwear. In short, it was what a modern-day Daisy Buchanon would wear to a garden party. She'd have plenty of options to choose from — flowy crepe de chine trousers in peach and baby blue, chiffon skirts in sherbet-florals, and cashmere sweaters in daffodil and apple green.
For evening, there were high-shine gowns in panne velvet, slip-dresses with deco beading, and ostrich feather shrugs. Also, three-piece suits in ivory silk, complete with pink-satin ties. If all this sounds familiar, it should. After all, it was Ralph Lauren who designed the costumes for the 1974 film The Great Gatsby, and many of those knockout silhouettes were reprised here.
>> Emanuel Ungaro and Giles Deacon have "mutually decided" to end their collaboration, they announced. Deacon joined Ungaro in May 2010 and produced two collections for the house; it is understood that the upcoming Spring 2012 collection, meanwhile, will reflect the work of the design team.
"Emanuel Ungaro embodies a very rich and distinct DNA which the company will deliver with a modern spirit," Ungaro CEO Jeffry Aronsson said in a statement. "The creative process for executing our strategy is largely in place and I will comment on this further at the appropriate time."
Aronsson was in attendance at Prabal Gurung's show last week; although he said at the time he was checking out talent for his consulting business, not Ungaro, that statement doesn't seem as convincing in light of Deacon's departure.