>> Carine Roitfeld is making her first return to styling magazine editorials since leaving Vogue Paris for V's September issue. For those who can't wait until Sept. 8 — when the magazine hits newsstands — to see her 72-page, Elizabeth Taylor-themed collaboration with Mario Testino — featuring Aymeline Valade — a peek at the shoot in the video.
Posts for August 8th 2011
>> With all the anti-traditional fashion show or anti-fashion-cycle talk as of late — thanks to designers like Tom Ford and Azzedine Alaia — one more designer is expressing her disinterest for such things. Valerie Delafosse, the head designer at Eres for the past five years, says she isn't interested in runway shows or fashion weeks.
In order to keep the company's designs tightly under wraps — on average, a new Eres swimwear collection takes two years to develop — and to prevent copying, Eres hosts buyers and journalists — who come on invitation only — twice a year at company headquarters in Paris. Delafosse creates one major collection of about 80 swimsuits a year, each of which are tested in a number of different conditions — from sand and sun to washing machines and chlorine.
Most of the Eres staff will also "test-drive" prototype designs to see how they work on different bodies and under everyday conditions. In fact, Delafosse believes that Eres must have a predominantly female staff and be run by a woman designer: “You really have to have a deep understanding of the female body. You need to try things on, and it is only by trying things on myself that I discover what works and what doesn’t. There is a female sensibility to it. A man is going to be more focused on the fantasy and his own projections of a woman, whereas a woman will focus on the realities of a woman’s daily life.”
Delafosse has no interest in trends, she says: “I don’t follow trends, I don’t even know what they are, I just follow my own intuition. Since I started at Eres I have always felt that I was working on a very long story and every season I develop a bit more of that same story ... I like to work with colors that are not necessarily easy to wear on the beach. I try and make my colors a little strange, not common or expected; something that is always out of the ordinary.”
She also is comfortable working within the modest Eres style and not catering to every customer: “I don’t know if Brazilians, with their swimwear culture of ‘the smaller the better’ will enjoy Eres’s more covered-up style ... What I want to do with Eres is, on the contrary, make suits that elongate the silhouette and create a harmony between the body and the bathing suit, so that each swimsuit suits the woman wearing it.”
>> The first Theory collection that Olivier Theyskens had a hand in designing is just rolling into stores, and both parties involved — Theory founder Andrew Rosen and Theyskens — continue to seem pleased with the partnership. Rosen told the New York Times in an article published over the weekend that he didn't want to put constraints on Theyskens's design process, but that he did want him to know how the clothes were selling: “We want Olivier to understand that a lot of what he’s doing is working but some things aren’t." And Theyskens seems to be enjoying that type of information — apparently, his debut Theyskens' Theory was bought nearly in its entirety. “It’s the first time ever,” he said, noting that when he designed ready-to-wear at Rochas or Nina Ricci, stores usually bought his extravagant dresses rather than the everyday basics.
See Malgosia Bela in the new Fall 2011 Theory campaign, plus a few of our favorite Fall 2011 Theory pieces that are now available, in the slideshow.
>> Speculation that arose last week has been confirmed: Angela Lindvall — not Heidi Klum — will host Lifetime's upcoming Project Runway All Stars spinoff. "Here I am in New York City! I landed a huge opportunity that will have me here for a month," Lindvall wrote last month on her blog. "Have to keep it top secret for now."
In place of Project Runway judges Michael Kors and Nina Garcia, Isaac Mizrahi and Marchesa's Georgina Chapman (who also happens to be married to the show's executive producer Harvey Weinstein) will join Lindvall on the All Stars judging panel. The show will premiere later this year on Lifetime.
And speaking of models heading to television, Carolyn Murphy just noted that she's currently "working on a TV show."
>> Stylists and Current/Elliott designers Emily Current and Meritt Elliott have tried their hands at their first-ever handbag collection, done in collaboration with Kate Spade. Westward for Kate Spade features six bag styles in classic silhouettes — updated with sequins, graphic lining, or broken-in suede — and is now available for pre-order. The collection runs $245 for a wallet to $1,295 for a travel duffle.
>> The "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" exhibit — which closed at the Met's Costume Institute yesterday evening — attracted 661,509 visitors in total, making it the eighth biggest show on record in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's 141-year history (Also among the top ten: "Treasures of Tutankhamun", held in 1978; "Mona Lisa," held in 1963; and "Picasso in The Metropolitan Museum of Art," held last year.).
Nearly 80,000 people saw the McQueen exhibition during its final week, amd 15,000 walked through on Saturday alone, when the wait ranged from 90 minutes to three hours.
Anna Wintour, an elective trustee of the museum's board, made an appearance last night, signing copies of the exhibit's catalog for many guests. Last week, she said she was thrilled with the show's reception: “We knew it was going to do well, but we didn’t know how well. One of the mailroom guys told me yesterday how much he enjoyed the show. It just shows you how fashion now reaches so many different people.”
It's rumored that the exhibit may be headed to London in some capacity.
>> Kanye West already has a womenswear designer and a stylist consultant in place for his upcoming womenswear debut, but what about the shoes? West is rumored to be collaborating on women's stilettos with Giuseppe Zanotti. While Zanotti did not completely confirm the reports, he did note: “Kanye is always here in my factory. In the last three years, he has come here maybe every month and worked with the employees 10 to 12 hours a day. He loves learning about shoes, both the design and construction, and we’ve tried to design something together." Zanotti then teased: “In a couple of months, he could have his own special collection out," hinting of the possible designs: "I always create shoes with a lot of sex appeal.” [FN]