>> La Garçonne is adding another facet to its ever-growing empire: a clothing line. Designed by the site's founder and creative director, Kris Kim, La Garçonne Moderne embodies the same aesthetic that fills much of the online store — colors are dark, silhouettes are streamlined, and the overall mood is one of androgynous ease. Made up of borrowed-from-the-boys basics — trenches, cardigans, blazers — cut long and lean in soft-worn fabrics like washed silk and brushed cotton, the 27-piece collection is priced from $295 to $1,450. Click through for a peek at the lookbook, modeled by Coco Young and available exclusively at La Garçonne.
Posts for August 2011
>> The best of the just-in pieces, all in one place. From a studded '40s-style crepe dress to a pair of velvet-ikat platform pumps, here's what's topping our need-now list. Click through to shop them all.
>> After testing the waters with Hussein Chalayan and Proenza Schouler collaborations, six-year-old denim company J Brand is set to debut its very own high-end sportswear line for Spring 2012. The 140-piece collection of office-to-evening separates — which will carry the same label as the brand's signature jeans — is priced from $200 to $1,500 and is meant to hang alongside the likes of Isabel Marant and Rag & Bone. "The initiative we set out from the very beginning was to build a fashion brand," CEO Jeff Rudes told WWD.
With a palette of understated solids — lilac, black, grey — the line is also primarily absent of the material that made the brand famous; instead, newly-hired design director Donald Oliver (who has stints at Vera Wang and Calvin Klein under his belt) has elected to use fabrics such as silk chiffon and lambskin. "We paid a lot of attention to details, making the garment feel special to the wearer," Oliver said, adding of the intended customer: "We wanted her to be easygoing, uncomplicated, subtly sophisticated. We wanted her to feel relevant, not trendy, not like she’s trying too hard, which is why I think the garments have an ease about them."
Though only 60 of the company's 2,500 retail doors will offer the line in the first season, the launch is just the first in a series of planned expansions for the brand over the next few years; accessories, menswear, and flagship stores in 6 cities are also in the works. Click through to see images from the new collection, with a full lookbook coming next week — just in time for Fashion Week.
>> Just before last season, CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg encouraged designers to forego hiring models under 16; however, after her show last season, von Furstenberg discovered that she had hired 15-year-old Hailey Clauson to walk, and subsequently issued an apology.
This season, von Furstenberg and the CFDA are taking preventative measures further, recommending that models produce a valid ID on the show day, ensuring that they are a minimum of 16 years old. “The casting agents for the Diane von Furstenberg show will be doing this and we encourage others to do the same,” the letter which von Furstenberg and CFDA CEO Steven Kolb sent out yesterday, stated. It also noted that all top model agencies had pledged not to send models under 16 for shows.
Von Furstenberg is not the only major New York designer who has had issues with model-age confusion. Michael Kors tells Lauren Hutton in the new issue of Interview: "I still think it’s weird when models come in on go-sees. I don’t understand how anyone can think that a model is a mannequin. I like to think of them as just women ... When they come in, I’m always like, 'Where are you from? Tell me about your life.' That’s the first thing I say. We were laughing, though, because two seasons ago, I said, 'You know what? These girls we’re seeing are too young. They are children.' It’s silly ... I said two years ago, 'No models under 16.' Well, of course, right after I said that, we started seeing all of these girls from Eastern Europe, and every girl who’d walk in, you’d say, 'Hi. What’s your name?' And she’d be like, 'I’m Svetlana.' I’m like, 'Svetlana, where are you from?' 'Ukraine.' 'Svetlana, how old are you?' '16.' Next girl walks in — she’s from Eastern Europe and 16. Next one? Eastern European and 16. I was like, 'Was there a bus?' But I still think it’s a tricky thing because no matter how beautiful you might be at 15 or 16, the simple truth is that you haven’t lived enough to really know how to project anything in a photograph. It’s like a kind of blank beauty."
>> Take inspiration from the swinging '60s — and the Fall 2011 collections of Prada (left), Celine, and Yves Saint Laurent — with these Mod-lined pieces. Mary Quant basics — shift dresses, pleated minis, and structured knits — get a current-day twist in jewel tone hues and pop-art prints, while accessories get fit in colorblock and python trim. Click through to shop now.
Image courtesy of Greg Kessler
>> Over the upcoming Labor Day weekend, David Lauren and Lauren Bush — who recently celebrated their engagement party in the Hamptons — will marry at his father Ralph Lauren's 17,000-acre Colorado ranch. The bride is expected to wear a Ralph Lauren wedding dress (David's sister Dylan Lauren wore a bridal gown designed by their father for her own wedding in June).
200 guests are expected for the festivities, which will include a picnic and softball game on Saturday, a rehearsal dinner Saturday night in Telluride, and the wedding ceremony Sunday, followed by a rodeo on Monday. A source told the New York Post, “The dress code for the wedding is black tie with a Western twist, which fits in with the romantic surroundings and both families’ American roots.”
Bush's grandparents, George H.W. and former First Lady Barbara Bush — currently at Walker’s Point in Maine — will not attend, a rep confirmed, while a spokesman for her uncle, George W. Bush, would not comment on if he and wife Laura will attend.
Bush is expected to take her soon-to-be husband's name; she recently told Harper's Bazaar: “I think it will be Lauren Bush-Lauren. I am sort of old-fashioned in that way"
>> The "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" exhibit at the Met's Costume Institute, which set attendance records and was extended — by both days and opening hours — until the museum couldn't extend it further (the galleries it was housed in needed to be turned over for a new exhibit), is likely headed to London.
McQueen released the following statement after a petition to bring the exhibit to London was mounted: "Alexander McQueen appreciates the huge amount of interest the public has shown towards the Savage Beauty exhibition. We have been in discussion with a number of major venues in London for some time now, however nothing has been finalized. Please be assured that an official announcement will be made the moment we confirm our plans for London."
The goal is reportedly to show the exhibit in London in 2013, for the label's twentieth anniversary.
>> Raf Simons lives alone in Antwerp — although he is obligated to spend almost 110 days a year in Milan, working on Jil Sander — but it sounds like he is considering a move. Berlin and New York are both prospects, with New York the frontrunner because of its art world connections and because he prefers it to Berlin, Simons says. "In this business, I know I could work somewhere else one day," he adds. "But I'll always keep this apartment [in Antwerp]." There were recently unconfirmed rumors that Simons may be collaborating with Kanye West on his impending line; no word as to whether such a collaboration — if the rumors are true — might prompt such a move. [WSJ]
>> Carine Roitfeld's upcoming book, Irreverent, doesn't hit stores until Oct. 18, but previews of the 368-page tome — which culls photographs from her 30-year career, plus personal photographs (one shows her topless, wearing nothing but a black G-string and white pumps) and notes from the likes of Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Tom Ford — have hit the Internet this morning on both Style.com and Vogue.com (more photos at the links).
Roitfeld already has another book up her sleeve — one she's doing with Karl Lagerfeld, that's set to release in December — and as for further projects, she told Vogue.com recently: “I have so many proposals in front of me, cosmetics or even a clothes line. I didn’t say yes or no.”
She added that she's enjoying her moment in the spotlight: “I worked 20 years ago, and 20 years ago no one was talking about me. I didn’t change. Maybe I was at the right moment. But sometimes I say, What is so interesting about me? I am just doing photo shoots. It’s not something that extraordinary. I’m not a great artist, I’m not writing books, I’m not a painter, and people in the streets ask me for a picture or a note and I say why? But I think it’s better to appreciate it, because maybe it’s not forever.”
>> Louis Vuitton is mounting a retrospective of Marc Jacobs's designs, to be unveiled during Milan Fashion Week; Robert Duffy suggests in a recent interview that Jacobs is ready to take on a couture line; and now, Jacobs has pushed back his New York Fashion Week show date — all fueling speculation that he's busy focusing on saying goodbye to Vuitton and doing a deal with Dior.
But, whatever happens, Jacobs won't be saying goodbye to one person — his business partner of 28 years, Robert Duffy. In a new profile exploring their partnership, Jacobs says of opportunities over the years: "Wherever we were, it would seem to the owner that one of us was the more valuable of the pair. But we always stood by each other ... it's not about what I do and what Robert does. The two of us together are Marc Jacobs. The two of us together are Vuitton. I don't think without him or without me we could achieve all that we've achieved."
More highlights from the profile, below.
Duffy on working with Jacobs for 28 years: "Marc honestly hasn't changed that much. He is very fragile and childlike. But when he's pushed against a wall and he really believes in something, he'll come back fighting. I think it's something he's learned from me. I guess that's how I've seen him change. He's more confident about what he has the right to say. He's definitely learned his craft and become an amazing technician. He could do a couture line. Of course, once he got sober, the natural thing to do was to get healthier. I don't know if you've ever known a heroin addict. He would eat cake, a whole wedding cake from a pastry shop. I would be like, 'You're the only fat heroin addict I know.'"
Duffy on what Jacobs would be without him: "I think if we weren't together, Marc would be a designer of renown, but he probably would have stayed small. He would never embrace social media. He wouldn't have done Marc by Marc. When I wanted to open Marc by Marc, he said, 'You think I want to design another line? You've got me working at Louis Vuitton, you've got me working here. You want to do it? It's yours. I'll come in and help when I need to.' But I have to be profitable, especially in the partnership with LVMH. I have to fund his collection line and the fashion shows."
Duffy on Jacobs's last-minute decisions: "Marc is famous for deciding things two weeks before the show, like, 'Oh my God, I want Stephen Jones to make polka-dot hats.' He expects the impossible from every single person. He expects everybody to just get with the program and get it done."
Jacobs on not always seeing eye-to-eye: "Sometimes we disagree on creative situations. He'll look at me like I'm out of my mind, like when I wanted to play 'Somewhere Over the Rainbow' for last fall's show. He said, 'You're not really going to use that?' And then he sort of said, 'All right.' He's never stopped me from doing something. Sometimes we see each other constantly and sometimes there are weeks or maybe even a month where we don't speak. We don't micromanage each other."