Posts for February 25th 2011
>> Last September's New Yorker Style Issue featured a lengthy profile on Style Rookie's Tavi Gevinson; could Bryanboy be up next? Apparently David Remnick is in Milan attending lots of fashion shows to research the next Style Issue, and while waiting for Prada yesterday introduced himself to Bryanboy. According to WWD, "the two seemed to really hit it off" and "chatted enthusiastically." The two then took a picture together and promised to get in touch. [WWD]
>> Last May, when Balenciaga severed its 12-year relationship with public relations firm PR Consulting, rumors circulated that it was the result of a Balenciaga designer leaving to work for one of the firm's other clients and that some of the client's designs were too similar to Balenciaga. Now, WSJ. reports that insiders at PPR say Nicolas Ghesquiere felt slighted by the attention Pierre Rougier was giving to Versace, his newest client, at the Costume Institute gala last year. It's worth noting the decision to drop PR Consulting was made within two weeks of the gala at the beginning of May.
At the time of the severance, Rougier said: “It’s been a wonderful 12-year adventure with Balenciaga and I really wish Nicolas and Balenciaga all the best and lots of luck going forward. It’s been really great and I really don’t want it to seem any other way.” And now, he tells WSJ. simply, "I love Nicolas."
Post-Balenciaga, Rougier seems to be doing fine. Alongside Versace, he counts among his clients Yves Saint Laurent, Jil Sander, Dries Van Noten, and Proenza Schouler. He is "notoriously picky about whom he takes on," according to the WSJ., and "can lift a brand to another level . . . his job is to keep the Americans, whose critical opinions drive international buying trends, in line."
Vera Wang president Mario Grauso avers this fact — one of the first things he did when joining Wang a year and a half ago was hire Rougier: "Vera had gone dark — hadn't done enough media, wasn't dressing celebrities. Pierre helped me change that. We [at Vera Wang] can veer a little too mainstream, a little too bridal-y. I wanted to be edgier and Pierre knew how to do that." Grauso also credits Rougier with bringing top European press to Wang's shows, admitting it's "something we couldn't do without him."
But cultivating brands isn't all Rougier aspires to — apparently he wants to get more involved with advising the venture capital and investment side of fashion, WSJ. reports: "Too many backers choose the wrong horse in the race, he says, and then are flummoxed when throwing money at the problem doesn't solve it."
>> Diane von Furstenberg just released her new vintage-inspired DIANE collection, which pays ode to her first collection from 1970. The pieces feature twenty archived DVF prints on modernized versions of DVF's original designs, including her signature wrap dress. Peep our favorite pieces from the collection, available online now, including bright swirled dresses and paint-splattered pencil cases, in the slideshow.
>> Yesterday, Yves Saint Laurent took to Twitter to dispel rumors of Stefano Pilati's imminent exit, and when reached for comment Thursday, PPR CEO Francois-Henri Pinault also firmly denied any plans to discharge the designer. In fact, he credited Pilati with helping Saint Laurent back to profitability in 2010, and just last week praised Pilati at PPR's results presentation for Saint Laurent's current momentum, and teasing him good-naturedly about filling all the upcoming new YSL stores with merchandise. As for the rumors of Pilati heading to Armani after Giorgio Armani's retirement, a house spokesperson replied: "The rumors are untrue." [WWD, Vogue UK]
>> Last night at 9 pm, French police briefly detained John Galliano for alleged assault and making anti-Semitic remarks at a Paris cafe. According to a police source: "We arrived extremely quickly and managed to break up the disturbance. The man involved [Galliano] was briefly arrested and then released pending charges for assault. Witnesses said he swore heavily, using anti-Jewish insults, before attacking a couple. Both have provided witness statements, as have a number of other people at the bar, including staff." It was the couple — a man and woman — who filed the complaint.
In response, Dior has suspended Galliano. House CEO Sidney Toledano said in a statement: "Dior affirms with the utmost conviction its policy of zero tolerance towards any anti-Semitic or racist words or behaviour. Pending the results of the inquiry, Christian Dior has suspended John Galliano from his responsibilities."
According to police, Galliano was under the influence of alcohol at the time — 1.01 milligrams of alcohol per liter of exhaled air (the legal limit in France for driving is 0.5 mg/L). An eyewitness tells Vogue UK: "We had a table at [the Paris cafe] La Perle and John Galliano sat next to us. He spoke to a couple at a nearby table to say 'Cheers' and they insulted him. An argument started and the police came, so Galliano's bodyguard suggested that they should go to the police station to sort it out. He wasn't 'busted' aggressively by police, it was very quiet and peaceful. I definitely didn't hear him say anything anti-Semitic, or against any religion, it was all very calm."
Galliano's lawyer says the designer "formally denies the accusations of anti-Semitism made against him. [He] is not at all in this state of mind [and] will explain later. Legal action will be taken against those making such accusations."
The Fall 2011 Dior show Galliano was working on is scheduled to take place March 4, and his signature collection's show is on the Paris Fashion Week calendar for March 6; the fate of those events has not been addressed. The alleged remarks also bring under question Natalie Portman's relationship with Dior — the Israeli-born, Jewish actress is the current face of the Miss Dior Cherie perfume and is rumored to be wearing a Christian Dior dress to the Oscars.
A Paris police spokesman, meanwhile, confirmed that Galliano is facing criminal charges and would appear in court on a date to be fixed.