>> The Armani Prive front row was well-stocked with Sophia Loren, Pedro Almodovar, Jodie Foster, and Olivia Wilde, but no Lady Gaga, despite her multimillion dollar partnership with Armani. That's not to say her presence wasn't felt in the futuristic collection. Derek Blasberg Tweeted: "Armani couture has gone all Sci-Fi on me. Pierre Cardin-esque shapes, iridescent fabrics and flying saucers hats. Is that the Gaga effect?" And Cathy Horyn, too, Tweeted: "Did Lady Gaga influence Armani's super-future lines and curves in startling collection of synthetic/metallic shine and enamel-like color?"
Posts for January 2011
- We saw LOVE's new cover with Kate Moss and Lea T. kissing last week; now the second cover, featuring Justin Bieber shot by Terry Richardson, has appeared [@THELOVEMAGAZINE]
- Andre Courreges and his wife and creative partner, Coqueline, have sold their company to two investors, Frederic Torloting and Jacques Bungert, who run the French division of advertising agency Young & Rubicam. Coqueline has been running the design house since Andre retired from fashion in the mid-'90s [WWD]
- After months of rumors, February's Vogue reports that Theory CEO and Rag & Bone investor Andrew Rosen is about to sign a deal with Proenza Schouler; and Meredith Melling Burke, not Candy Pratts Price, is reportedly overseeing Vogue.com [Fashionista]
- Yesterday during a DLD Conference panel, Natalie Massenet talked about her plans for Net-A-Porter Live, a platform on which Net-a-Porter customers will be able to see who’s online and what they put in their baskets in real time; “We want to start a conversation between them,” she explained [DLD Conference]
- Naomi Campbell is headed back to court this Thursday over a breach-of-contract lawsuit; the contract, which involved promoting a perfume called Cat Deluxe with Kisses, was signed 12 years ago [The Cut]
- Prada could make a final decision on their IPO by the end of the month [Bloomberg]
- Alejandro Ingelmo is aiming to introduce handbags and accessories into his collection for Spring 2012 [Fashionetc.]
- Anna Wintour, Steven Klein, Donna Karan, Daphne Guinness, Ingrid Sischy, Sandy Brant, and Vera Wang all attended the elaborate 21st birthday party Calvin Klein threw on Friday at Indochine for his boyfriend, Nick Gruber [NY Post]
- Tanner Hall, the film co-directed by Diane von Furstenberg's daughter Tatiana von Furstenberg and starring Rooney Mara, just scored a distribution deal and is expected to be released at the end of this year, around when Mara's upcoming film, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, debuts [Deadline]
- Libertine is headed back to New York Fashion Week this February, minus a partner and with a new direction, says designer Johnson Hartig: "It’ll be different in that once Cindy [Greene] and I separated, I stopped using placement prints — I mean literal images — and it’s become more abstract. And there’s going to be a lot more color. I haven’t met a color I haven’t liked this season" [Fashionetc.]
>> Nine West, which previously collaborated with Vivienne Westwood, Thakoon, and Sophia Kokosalaki in 2006, is kicking off a new collaborative initiative, "Shoelaborations," which will involve working with up-and-coming designers, artists and musicians. First up? Sophie Theallet and Giles Deacon.
The Sophie Theallet for Nine West collection includes "fresh and feminine" shoes, accessories, and handbags, and hits stores May 1. “For the collection I designed my own stripe print, which you will see interpreted on a ballet flat, a raffia wedge and a double platform sandal. I also designed little straw bags with charms representing icons of France,” Theallet explained. Prices are expected to run $79 for flats up to $109 for the platform espadrille sandal.
Deacon's collection, meanwhile, is slated for Fall 2011. Nine West is already in talks for its 2012 partnerships, but declined to give any more details.
>> Emmanuelle Alt made her front row debut as Vogue Paris editor at Alexis Mabille's couture show this morning. Alt's name appears on top of the magazine's masthead starting with the April 2011 issue, which will feature Gisele Bundchen on the cover, photographed in St. Barts by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. However, it apparently won't be until the August 2011 issue that the magazine completely reflects Alt's new direction. [WWD]
>> John Galliano stuck to his staples for Spring 2011 Christian Dior couture — a retro silhouette, this time inspired by illustrator Rene Gruau, and perennial Dior face Karlie Kloss opening, introduced to the audience with a rotation of the set. Mario Testino, Stella Tennant, Lou Doillon, Pedro Almodovar, Patrick Demarchelier, and Azzedine Alaia were all front row to take in the show, and Galliano took his bow in a cropped black wig and red-striped black tuxedo pants. Backstage, Martha Streck Tweeted, the models — including Iekeliene Stange and Angela Lindvall, who both made appearances — had to pose for Demarchelier afterwards.
>> Hilary Alexander interviewed Karl Lagerfeld on video in the Chanel atelier, and as they discuss why Lagerfeld is perpetually late and why he prefers to wear navy on camera, there are glimpses of Daphne Groeneveld, Magdalena Frackowiak, and Siri Tollerod having their fittings for tomorrow's showing of Chanel's Spring 2011 Couture collection. It looks like black chokers and black patent flats are Lagerfeld's preferred accessories for the collection.
>> For Pre-Fall 2011, Angela Missoni told a tale of cozy '60s ski-inspired knitwear. The house's signature zigzags were present, made into a layered medley of knit turtlenecks, jacquard coats, shift dresses, flared trousers, and sweaters. Accessories, designed by Margherita Missoni for the past three seasons, added a modern bohemian touch with pieces like metal chain necklaces, knit turbans, chunky rope bracelets, and colorful platform sandals.
Watch Prada Spring 2011 Faces Kinga Rajzak, Arizona Muse, Mariacarla Boscono, and Tati Cotliar Dance in a Lively Campaign Video
>> In what may be the best campaign video in some time, Prada Spring 2011 faces Tati Cotliar, Kinga Rajzak, Arizona Muse, Mariacarla Boscono, and Zuzanna Bijoch don the collection's stripes and give their best dance to Ratatat’s 2008 song "Mirando." And don't forget to take a second look at those sunglasses — apparently Prada has decided to do a limited-edition 500-pair run, and they will be in stores starting next month.
>> How many articles have been written heralding the imminent death of couture? But after Alexander McQueen reported that its custom order business is profitable last week, executives across the board seem optimistic about the state of couture.
Dior, for instance, has doubled the guest list for its Spring 2011 couture show Monday to about 800 people — because the demand is there. “It’s been an excellent year for couture,” Dior CEO Sidney Toledano told WWD, citing a growth in Asian clientele and the fact that American clients who left during the economic crisis returned last year.
Jean Paul Gaultier also experienced a "spectacular" return of American clients last year, according to deputy managing director Caroline Le Borgne, who says: “For the moment, nothing tells us we won’t have a great year."
And Givenchy said its decision to do a presentation instead of runway show last July, creating more exclusivity, was a boon for business. It created a bump in editorial coverage, according to Givenchy CEO Fabrizio Malverdi, and: “The clients have increased because of our intimate presentation. They prefer not to be seen with a show context.” The house had a 10 percent gain in couture in 2010 and expects a similar increase in 2011, Malverdi says. "The Middle East is increasing, and China is starting to show interest."
Armani Prive logged a 45 percent increase in 2010, says Armani deputy chairman John Hooks, fueled by an influx of new clients: "We did an Armani Prive show in Dubai on the occasion of the opening of the new Armani Hotel Dubai, and this had a dramatic effect on sales of couture in the region." He added that new clients in Russia and other ex-Soviet bloc countries also contributed. “Couture is following the current pattern of all trade in the fashion business — emerging markets are growing faster than the established ones.”
That's why Chanel plans to bring Karl Lagerfeld's Spring 2011 couture collection, following its show in Paris on Tuesday, to New York, Los Angeles, Shanghai, and another Asian city — Hong Kong, Beijing, and Tokyo are being considered. “Because the customers are not always coming to Paris, we need to go to them for the fittings,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel. And Valentino plans to bring its couture collection to Russia, possibly in 2012, said its CEO Stefano Sassi.
A preview of next week's couture collections in the gallery.
The Latest Spring 2011 Ads — Joan Smalls and Malgosia Bela for Stella McCartney, Erin Wasson for Elie Saab, Plus More
>> Stella McCartney is known for her quirky, even cartoony campaigns, and this time, she enlisted Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to shoot Joan Smalls and Malgosia Bela for Spring 2011. The ads show Bela wearing nothing but a collage of blown-up images of McCartney's Spring fruit print or Smalls wearing a swimsuit-shaped collage of pastel-colored suit lapels. “I wanted to play with the purity and realism of the citrus print from summer 2011….exaggerating the scale and playing with the female form in its purest form, as nature intended,” McCartney told WWD. A look at that, plus Erin Wasson's minimalist turn for Elie Saab, Patricia van der Vliet's maximalist turn for Sonia Rykiel, and Raquel Zimmermann and Freja Beha Erichsen for H&M, all in the gallery.