>> In the wake of yesterday's Armani Prive show, Derek Blasberg Tweeted: "Armani couture has gone all Sci-Fi on me. Pierre Cardin-esque shapes, iridescent fabrics and flying saucers hats. Is that the Gaga effect?" Cathy Horyn Tweeted similarly: "Did Lady Gaga influence Armani's super-future lines and curves in startling collection of synthetic/metallic shine and enamel-like color?" And Vogue's Mark Holgate wrote, "Clearly, Armani is gaga for Gaga. How else does one explain that shiny molded techno-fabric that looked like it was specially created for Tron?" But despite all of those conclusions and the fact that Gaga and Armani have a multimillion dollar partnership, when Horyn approached Armani about it, she writes: "Afterward I asked him if he had been at all influenced by Lady Gaga, for whom he has made some clothes, and he shook his head firmly. Well, I wonder." [On the Runway]
Posts for January 2011
Riccardo Tisci Casts Only Asian Models to Show Japanese-Infused Spring 2011 Givenchy Couture Collection
>> Now that Givenchy's couture presentations are intimate and without the hoopla of a fashion show, Riccardo Tisci has decreased the number of dresses per collection produced — this time, there were only ten. But that doesn't mean there's a lack of drama. Inspired by Japanese robot toys and Kazuo Ohno (the legendary Japanese Butoh dancer who Tisci met through a mutual friend), the collection is pastel in front with shocks of brighter color in the back — like with Pre-Fall, Tisci has left his usual black-based palette behind. One dress, with hand-dyed and hand-cut matte sequins, took 4,000 hours of handwork to assemble. And as for the model cast, Tisci went completely Asian, with Chinese (Ming Xi, Liu Wen, Shu Pei Qin, Sun Fei Fei, Du Juan, Jiang Xiao Yi), Japanese (Ai Tominaga, Tao Okamoto) and Korean (Hye Rim Park, So Young Kang) all represented.
>> Denim has always been an everyday staple, but Spring's upcoming edition will spotlight more than just jeans. Designers like Celine, Derek Lam, and Stella McCartney brought attention to numerous denim pieces on their runways. Think structured denim tops and jackets, skirts, and vests dipped in medium to light washes. Don't wait for the sun to start shining to wear this trend: get a head start on it today with our picks from Chloe, Topshop, Stella McCartney, and APC.
>> Chanel's current ad campaign spans three generations, and at the brand's couture show today, Karl Lagerfeld highlighted the idea that Chanel is for any age, tapping 40-year-old Stella Tennant to open the show and 45-year-old Kristen McMenamy to close. VIPs galore filled the front row: Kirsten Dunst, Ines de la Fressange, Pedro Almodovar, Karen Elson, Alexa Chung, Daphne Guinness, Diane Kruger, Vanessa Paradis, and Jerry Hall, plus Baptiste Giabiconi, who, for once, didn't walk the Chanel runway. As previewed yesterday, the collection was filled with black patent mule flats and tunic dresses over skinny pants, and at the end, Lagerfeld, joined by his bride McMenamy in a dress fitted with an embroidered train of thousands of gold beads, blew the audience a kiss.
Karl Lagerfeld Shot Olivier Theyskens, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Lou Doillon and More For Maison Michel's Spring 2011 Lookbook
>> Karl Lagerfeld first shot Maison Michel's lookbook back in 2009 (the millinery's art director Laetitia Crahay doubles as Chanel's accessories designer), and now he's back to capture the Spring 2011 Maison Michel collection, bringing some of his favorite faces along with him. In addition to highlighting the famous Maison Michel bunny ears, the lookbook also features new pieces like sculpted metal headbands, floral hair pins, and posh trilby toppers modeled by the likes of Olivier Theyskens, Irina Lazareanu, Leigh Lezark, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Lou Doillon and her son Marlowe, as well as Mark Ronson and girlfriend Josephine de la Baume. The complete lookbook, which features special pieces designed for Opening Ceremony, in the slideshow.
>> It's no secret that Gucci creative director Frida Giannini likes Rome, where she grew up, and music from the likes of Prince, Madonna, and Franz Ferdinand. Those are two of the twelve things she tells Elle Decor's February/March 2011 issue (out Feb. 8) she can't live without . . . but what about some of the less obvious things she listed? Among them: the seaside ("When I want to escape, I take my German shepherd, Gunner IV, and go to my beach house in Sabaudia, an hour from Rome"); hot dogs in Central Park ("I can eat four at a time, with lots of ketchup"); Agent Provocateur lingerie ("I wear a lot of black, which can look severe. Lingerie lets me play with my secret side"); pilates ("I do it early in the morning; I feel less guilty for the rest of the day"); and pasta with fresh tomatoes ("Don't forget the basil. So good and so healthy").
>> Maison Martin Margiela took inspiration from Spring's bounty and created a bold bouquet of floral arrangements for its Spring 2011 couture collection. Color was the name of the game, with voluminous rosette-embellished dresses aplenty made out of cotton bandanas and Liberty fabric, and for the finale, came transparent evening gowns.
>> Contrary to popular opinion, Amy Astley says, she didn't work under Anna Wintour when she was editor at House & Garden (HG, as it was called then). In fact, she only met Wintour the day the magazine was shuttered: "So I get the call the day HG closed, would I go and see Anna, and I said sure, of course . . . and they were like, ‘Today, right now.’ And that’s how I learned how Vogue operates — I was like, ‘Can I do it tomorrow? I have to get my outfit together!’ And HR was like, ‘No, she’s ready for you now, right now.’ So I toddled up there in my little Agnes B. T-shirt and my brand new Chanel ballet slippers that cost, like, a week’s salary." She was hired as beauty associate at Vogue and promoted soon after to beauty director: "I stayed at Vogue for nine years — I did four test issues of Teen Vogue, I edited Index — and I didn’t think Conde Nast was going to launch Teen Vogue, so I got pregnant for the second time, and Anna and Mr. [Si] Newhouse called me in. I was nine days away from giving birth — I was so fat. I had gained, like, forty pounds . . . I was huge! And they said, ‘We’re going to launch Teen Vogue, and we want you to edit it.’ I literally gave birth to my second child Ingrid as the magazine was being launched, so she and it are the same age — eight. I was 35 at the time." [Into The Gloss]
>> Pre-Fall 2011 collections from the likes of Proenza Schouler, Chanel, and Preen all showed off a selection of exotic prints. If you're anxious to get a jump on the look now, peep our two ensembles — featuring one bohemian and one polished outfit.
Bohemian Layers, left to right: Clemens en August Turtleneck Sweater ($139, originally $555), Lotta Stensson Nairobi Printed Silk Top ($355), Topshop Skinny Belt ($32), Madewell Rocker Jeans ($110), Yves Saint Laurent Clutch ($669), Topshop Navy Loafers ($128), Lee Angel Bracelet Set ($100)
Polished Chic, left to right: Dries Van Noten Candy Silk Blouse ($499, originally $715), Valentino Cropped Wool Coat ($3,290), Alexander Wang Skinny Trousers ($193, originally $385), Erickson Beamon Swarovski Crystal Tulle Necklace ($287, originally $955), Lauren Wolf Jewelry Triple Pyramid Stud Ring ($125), Mulberry Sofia Tote ($750), Kors Michael Kors Suede Booties ($199, originally ($295)
>> It's been almost a year since Balenciaga banned Carine Roitfeld and the entire Vogue Paris team from attending its shows and pulled advertising from the magazine — reportedly over some issues related to Balenciaga's samples — but it seems that Roitfeld and Nicolas Ghesquiere may have reconciled. They were spotted having drinks at L'Hotel together last Wednesday. [DFR]