Posts for January 7th 2011
>> Vogue Paris's newly-named editor Emmanuelle Alt is not expected to make big changes to the magazine when she takes over from Carine Roitfeld — she did work as Roitfeld's fashion director for ten years, after all. But Fabien Baron, who was Vogue Paris's creative director until two years ago, said he thought Alt might make the magazine more accessible to readers: "She’s more commercial than Carine — in a good way. She’s looser, more connected to the street.”
As for whether Alt was the right choice for the job, Baron replied: “That’s the question that remains.” He added that she was the logical choice, given her contacts with top photographers and within the fashion establishment, and given that she has had ample time and training to know what kind of magazine she wants.
>> Balenciaga is amping up its presence in the US, an important market for the house, with the hire of Katherine Ross — "known for her brainy approach and art-world ties during stints at Prada and LVMH," WWD reports — as consultant.
While Nicolas Ghesquiere said he and Ross have no concrete plans yet, he hopes to do more events or special projects that could have artistic or historical angles stateside: “I’m questioning if there is a new way of communicating about a fashion brand. It could be an art proposal, it could be a movie. [The scope] is very open, very large.”
Ross echoed: “Balenciaga is poised for significant growth and increased recognition in the U.S.” When prompted on whether that meant Balenciaga might return to the New York runways, Ghesquiere said, "Why not," but stressed that for now, he's staying on the Paris show calendar. Fashionista suggests that he might be more open to showing a Resort collection in New York, like Stefano Pilati did with Yves Saint Laurent last Resort season, than a Spring/Summer or Fall/Winter main collection.
Marc Jacobs Is In Contract Renegotiations with Louis Vuitton; Bernard Arnault Has Veto Power on John Galliano's Dior Designs
>> Robert Duffy and Marc Jacobs are in the midst of negotiating the renewal of their respective contracts at Louis Vuitton, Duffy confirms. But he doesn't expect there to be any problems: “It’s just starting but, I mean, we both want to stay. I don’t think that’s any secret. When two people want to renew their vows, they do it usually.”
It sounds like the feeling is mutual from Louis Vuitton head Bernard Arnault. "I could have asked many other talented designers to do Dior, but it would not have been the same," Arnault told Tatler Asia. "Take Marc Jacobs, he has been a fantastic success at Vuitton, and he has a proximity to the Vuitton spirit, but I don't think it would have been a success with Jacobs at Dior and the other way around, if I had asked John [Galliano] to do Vuitton, it would not have worked. An essential ingredient in the success of the brand today is the real proximity of Galliano to the talent of Christian Dior." Arnault and Galliano meet at the LVMH offices in Paris to discuss each of Galliano's Dior collections before it is shown. "We meet in this room," explains Arnault. "I say, 'John, I think we should do something else. What you have done is too extravagant.' For Dior it's all about the details and John listens."
>> Emmanuelle Alt, Vogue Paris's fashion director under Carine Roitfeld, has — as expected — been named Roitfeld's successor as editor-in-chief of the magazine. The change is effective Feb. 1, and Alt's name will appear at the top of Vogue Paris's masthead starting with the April issue, according to Condé Nast France chairman Xavier Romatet.
Romatet also indicated that under Alt's direction, there would not be radical change (The 43-year-old stylist has been with the magazine since late 2000, months before Roitfeld joined.). "Vogue Paris is doing very well, and I wanted to entrust the editorship to someone who can provide continuity while bringing new life," Romatet noted. "I give [Alt] full confidence to lead and embody this demanding and prestigious brand and let it live in all its dimensions, including digitally."
"It's a great honor for me, but also a great pleasure to be at the head of Vogue Paris, which I know very well," said Alt. "While working with very talented teams, I will task myself with developing the incredible potential of Vogue Paris." Alt will work closely with Vogue Paris deputy editor Olivier Lalanne, whose scope of editorial responsibilities has been widened to include Vogue Hommes International.