Posts for January 21st 2011

Chanel

Couture Isn't So Dead, After All, According to Givenchy, Dior, Armani, and Chanel Execs

>> How many articles have been written heralding the imminent death of couture?

>> How many articles have been written heralding the imminent death of couture? But after Alexander McQueen reported that its custom order business is profitable last week, executives across the board seem optimistic about the state of couture.

Dior, for instance, has doubled the guest list for its Spring 2011 couture show Monday to about 800 people — because the demand is there. “It’s been an excellent year for couture,” Dior CEO Sidney Toledano told WWD, citing a growth in Asian clientele and the fact that American clients who left during the economic crisis returned last year.

Jean Paul Gaultier also experienced a "spectacular" return of American clients last year, according to deputy managing director Caroline Le Borgne, who says: “For the moment, nothing tells us we won’t have a great year."

And Givenchy said its decision to do a presentation instead of runway show last July, creating more exclusivity, was a boon for business. It created a bump in editorial coverage, according to Givenchy CEO Fabrizio Malverdi, and: “The clients have increased because of our intimate presentation. They prefer not to be seen with a show context.” The house had a 10 percent gain in couture in 2010 and expects a similar increase in 2011, Malverdi says. "The Middle East is increasing, and China is starting to show interest."

Armani Prive logged a 45 percent increase in 2010, says Armani deputy chairman John Hooks, fueled by an influx of new clients: "We did an Armani Prive show in Dubai on the occasion of the opening of the new Armani Hotel Dubai, and this had a dramatic effect on sales of couture in the region." He added that new clients in Russia and other ex-Soviet bloc countries also contributed. “Couture is following the current pattern of all trade in the fashion business — emerging markets are growing faster than the established ones.”

That's why Chanel plans to bring Karl Lagerfeld's Spring 2011 couture collection, following its show in Paris on Tuesday, to New York, Los Angeles, Shanghai, and another Asian city — Hong Kong, Beijing, and Tokyo are being considered. “Because the customers are not always coming to Paris, we need to go to them for the fittings,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel. And Valentino plans to bring its couture collection to Russia, possibly in 2012, said its CEO Stefano Sassi.

A preview of next week's couture collections in the gallery.

H&M

The Latest Spring 2011 Ads — Joan Smalls and Malgosia Bela for Stella McCartney, Erin Wasson for Elie Saab, Plus More

>> Stella McCartney is known for her quirky, even cartoony campaigns, and this time, she enlisted Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to shoot Joan Smalls and Malgosia Bela for Spring 2011.

>> Stella McCartney is known for her quirky, even cartoony campaigns, and this time, she enlisted Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to shoot Joan Smalls and Malgosia Bela for Spring 2011. The ads show Bela wearing nothing but a collage of blown-up images of McCartney's Spring fruit print or Smalls wearing a swimsuit-shaped collage of pastel-colored suit lapels. “I wanted to play with the purity and realism of the citrus print from summer 2011….exaggerating the scale and playing with the female form in its purest form, as nature intended,” McCartney told WWD. A look at that, plus Erin Wasson's minimalist turn for Elie Saab, Patricia van der Vliet's maximalist turn for Sonia Rykiel, and Raquel Zimmermann and Freja Beha Erichsen for H&M, all in the gallery.

 

Richard Nicoll

Cerruti Closing Women’s to Focus on Menswear

>> Cerruti, which was purchased by the Li & Fung group in December, just announced that it will be suspending its womenswear division to focus on menswear.

>> Cerruti, which was purchased by the Li & Fung group in December, just announced that it will be suspending its womenswear division to focus on menswear. “We prefer not to spread ourselves too thin in a field that is highly competitive,” said CEO Florent Perrichon. Women's creative director Richard Nicoll will present his third and last collection for the house in March, in a yet-to-be-determined format. [WWD]

lookbooks

Check Out Club Monaco's Urban Cool Spring 2011 Lookbook

>> Club Monaco just released its Spring 2011 lookbook and it's overflowing with warm weather activity.

>> Club Monaco just released its Spring 2011 lookbook and it's overflowing with warm weather activity. The collection — which includes canvas jackets, femme dresses, tailored slacks, and sheer blouses — is just what we need to kickstart our Spring itch . . .  the perfect mix of urban cool with a sweet girly twist. Check out the whole collection in the slideshow, now!

Tod's

It's Official — Diego Della Valle and Tod's To Restore Roman Colosseum

>> Officials from Italy’s Ministry of Culture have approved the offer Diego Della Valle, the chairman and CEO of Tod's, made to finance the restoration of Rome’s Colosseum.

>> Officials from Italy’s Ministry of Culture have approved the offer Diego Della Valle, the chairman and CEO of Tod's, made to finance the restoration of Rome’s Colosseum. Tod's Group will be responsible for a monetary commitment of 25 million euros (approx. $32.8 million) to the project, which is expected to begin at the end of the year and take up to two and a half years.

"A monument that represents Italy in the world must be restored, and a company that represents Made in Italy stepped forward to say, 'If you need us, we are here,'" Della Valle said at a press conference. When recently asked what benefits to Tod's sponsoring the project would bring, Della Valle told WWD that “there is a moment to take and there is a moment to give” and that this is a cultural project, not a commercial one.

Harper's Bazaar

See Detailed Shots of Streetstyle Favorites Mary Kate Steinmiller and Joanna Hillman's Closets on New Site The Coveted

>> Ever wonder what populates the closets of streetstyle favorites like Teen Vogue fashion market editor Mary Kate Steinmiller or Harper's Bazaar senior fashion market editor Joanna Hillman? A few months ago, designer Erin Kleinberg and her friend Stephanie Mark, with photographer Jake Rosenberg in tow, started documenting just that — fashion insiders' handbags, shoes, jewelry, and clothes, shot in their apartments — complete with personal anecdotes about what each item signifies and where it comes from, for their newly launched site, TheCoveted.com.

>> Ever wonder what populates the closets of streetstyle favorites like Teen Vogue fashion market editor Mary Kate Steinmiller or Harper's Bazaar senior fashion market editor Joanna Hillman? A few months ago, designer Erin Kleinberg and her friend Stephanie Mark, with photographer Jake Rosenberg in tow, started documenting just that — fashion insiders' handbags, shoes, jewelry, and clothes, shot in their apartments — complete with personal anecdotes about what each item signifies and where it comes from, for their newly launched site, TheCoveted.com. Already up for the viewing are Steinmiller (above and below), Hillman, and Theory and Helmut Lang communications & celebrity director, Mona Sharf, with more fashion editor, publicist, stylist, model, and blogger subjects promised soon. In fact, they're shooting with Net-a-Porter US editor Tracy Taylor right now. [The Coveted]

Trend Alert

Spring 2011 Trend — White Wonderland

>> With designers like Rag & Bone, Derek Lam, and Calvin Klein highlighting white ensembles on their runways, we're convinced that the colorless hue is going to be a big thing come Spring.

>> With designers like Rag & Bone, Derek Lam, and Calvin Klein highlighting white ensembles on their runways, we're convinced that the colorless hue is going to be a big thing come Spring. Get a head start on the look now — and some white-hot inspiration — with our picks from Elizabeth and James, Opening Ceremony, and Jenni Kayne.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier, Subject of a New Documentary, Says His Favorite Piece of Clothing Is "the Condom"

>> Farida Khelfa, who first walked for Jean Paul Gaultier in the '80s and later was his couture director for a time (she's also known as Azzedine Alaia's muse), has directed a 52-minute documentary on the designer, Jean Paul Gaultier ou les codes bouleversés (Jean Paul Gaultier or the shattered codes), which premieres on television tonight in France.

>> Farida Khelfa, who first walked for Jean Paul Gaultier in the '80s and later was his couture director for a time (she's also known as Azzedine Alaia's muse), has directed a 52-minute documentary on the designer, Jean Paul Gaultier ou les codes bouleversés (Jean Paul Gaultier or the shattered codes), which premieres on television tonight in France. The film spans Gaultier's 30-year career, and Khelfa invited her best friend Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, also a friend of the designer, to interview him. They discussed his commitment to the fight against AIDS, which began after he lost his lover and business partner Francis Menuge in 1990 to the disease. “My favorite piece of clothing is the condom, because it protects from the virus,” he tells Bruni-Sarkozy. Khelfa says she wants to do another designer documentary soon. [WWD]


Anna Wintour

See the Bill Cunningham New York Trailer

>> The trailer for Bill Cunningham New York, the 88-minute documentary on streetstyle pioneer and 81-year-old New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, just became available.

>> The trailer for Bill Cunningham New York, the 88-minute documentary on streetstyle pioneer and 81-year-old New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, just became available. Richard Press, who directed the film, says he first approached Cunningham about the project in 2000: "He just pooh-poohed the idea. He couldn’t entertain it. He said, ‘Why me? There’s no subject here.’” Filming didn't begin until New York Fashion Week in 2008. Anna Wintour, who makes a cameo, says that just seeing Cunningham not raise his camera is enough to strike dread into the heart of a fashion editor: "We all get dressed for Bill." The film premieres at New York City's Film Forum on March 16; for more theater availability, check here.

Oscar De La Renta

Oscar de la Renta Criticizes Michelle Obama for Wearing Alexander McQueen to State Dinner

>> Michelle Obama has taken to wearing British designers this week — she wore Roksanda Ilincic for the first time while greeting Chinese president Hu at the White House on Wednesday and then chose an Alexander McQueen gown by Sarah Burton (left) for the state dinner honoring the People's Republic of China that evening.

>> Michelle Obama has taken to wearing British designers this week — she wore Roksanda Ilincic for the first time while greeting Chinese president Hu at the White House on Wednesday and then chose an Alexander McQueen gown by Sarah Burton (left) for the state dinner honoring the People's Republic of China that evening.

Oscar de la Renta, who two years ago criticized what he said was Obama's lack of support of American fashion, is back again, questioning why she chose the McQueen gown for the occasion. “My understanding,” de la Renta told WWD, “is that the visit was to promote American-Chinese trade — American products in China and Chinese products in America. Why do you wear European clothes?”

De la Renta noted that Obama continues to have the power to boost a house's business, and added: “I’m not talking about my clothes, my business. I’m old, and I don’t need it. But there are a lot of young people, very talented people here who do."