Posts for September 13th 2010
>> Greg Kessler is an old pro at shooting the backstage swarm. Now that the first half of New York Fashion Week is through, he's amassed quite a stack of snaps — and we got a choice few. Among the moments captured: Anja Rubik having a quiet moment alone pre-Wang with her Blackberry, Prabal Gurung's model powwow, gratuitous shoe shots from Ohne Titel, Abbey Lee Kershaw still in her street style, and more than a few models goofing off. Gallery from backstage at Alexander Wang, Doo.Ri, Altuzarra, BCBG, Prabal Gurung, Richard Chai Love, Jason Wu, and Ohne Titel, at left.
>> Rodarte Reportedly Bans Pre-Show Backstage Press —Rodarte is known for their innovative makeup looks, but it sounds like there will be no peeks for the press until the models hit the runway tomorrow. Word is Laura and Kate Mulleavy have banned backstage access for beauty press this season. Some have speculated it's because the shows looks will be even more elaborate than usual. Perhaps they don't want anything to leak on Twitter beforehand. But one insider seems to think otherwise: "It's because Rodarte is furious with MAC for canceling their collection." And no beauty press backstage means fewer MAC mentions.
Marc Jacobs Looks to Yves Saint Laurent and the '70s — Things That Made Him Fall in Love with Fashion — for Spring 2011
>> Half an hour before Marc Jacobs's show was scheduled to start at 8 pm this evening, his team Tweeted, "Marcs ready now. Were waiting for editors." And Cathy Horyn reports that they had hoped to start at 7:45 pm. But it turns out that once again, Marc's show started right on the dot, with six models walking at once, each coming from different exits in the gold circular centerpiece, as Vivaldi's "Summer" from The Four Seasons played over the loudspeaker.
The show was pure '70s, recalling Bianca Jagger and Jodie Foster from Taxi Driver — all wide-legged trousers, frizzy hair, with oversized flower corsages and gold glitter platforms. A jolt of color, Jacobs (who took his bow in pants and Cuban heeled shoes in place of a skirt) said backstage, after last season's beige. He also cited the New York Dolls, Antonio Lopez, Yves Saint Laurent, and Calvin Klein as references, explaining that he wanted to celebrate everything that made him fall in love with fashion. Jamie Bochert, who owes her career to Marc, made her first appearance of the week, and Jourdan Dunn and Alessandra Ambrosio walked, too. Redheaded newbie Luisa Bianchin opened.
It appears that Jacobs's recent celebrity ban was lifted: Alexa Chung and Nacho Figueras were there, and Courtney Love was late and caught the tail end of the show, which ended at 8:11 pm. Jacobs's ex-fiance, Lorenzo Martone, gave him a hug and kiss backstage afterward. And rumor has it that the show's set will do double duty as the Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 campaign backdrop, to be shot in tandem with the show.
The New York Times's Eric Wilson writes of the collection: "The clothes are remarkable because they reflect Mr. Theyskens’s signature drainpipe style, but also look like Theory’s urban wardrobe." There are 80 looks in all, priced 30 to 40 percent higher than Theory's main collection. Among the goods: a narrow-sleeved leather jacket with white cotton lining (under $1,000), trim white jeans with loose-fitting pockets and cuffs sewn to stay rolled (about $240), floaty dresses made with double layers of Japanese crinkle polyster ($690), a black washed silk dress with elastic straps and pockets (around $500 to $550), jackets cut with a deep notch at the back of the neck, suit separates in stretch wool, jeans painted with a silver paint substance, and shoes. In the past, when Theyskens worked for Rochas and Nina Ricci, his creations were upwards of $2,000.
“I think the one thing that maybe people don’t understand is the range that Olivier is capable of,” Theory’s president and founder Andrew Rosen, who owns a horse named "Theyskens' Theory," said. “I think that he was very much inspired by doing something more democratic.”
>> Photos may have been verboten at Tom Ford's womenswear preview yesterday — with the exception of those taken by Terry Richardson — but a few have popped up, all headshots. Even Cathy Horyn posted a few.
Ford is notorious for image control, but it's rumored that the image embargo wasn't for that reason alone: Richardson's photos are reportedly an exclusive for an all Tom Ford edited issue of Vogue Paris (likely the December/January 2011 issue, the issue that the magazine annually has a guest editor for). It makes sense, considering how close Ford and Carine Roitfeld have worked together in the past (and Roitfeld reportedly skipped shows yesterday because she was preparing for Ford's).
But Ford told the New York Times that he didn't allow pictures because fashion has become overexposed in recent years, in part because of the Internet: “I want fashion to be fun again, like it was in the ’60s. You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.” He added that photos will be available on his web site in December, along with a short film of the show.
The clothes, which he began working on late last spring, will be in his stores in late January or February 2011. He expects them to be very expensive: $3,500 to $5,000 for a suit, around $4,500 for a tuxedo, and a gown could be $20,000.