>> Olivier Theyskens Finally Returning to Design —It's been over a year since Olivier Theyskens has had a design outlet — he left Nina Ricci in March 2009 — but he's finally back. Theyskens will design a capsule collection for contemporary brand Theory, to be shown during the upcoming Spring 2011 season. Further details are currently unavailable. [WWD]
Posts for May 26th 2010
>> Marc Jacobs has taken the stage for many a reason in the past — usually it involves accepting an award — but last night, it was to sing backup to Donna Summer at the opening of Louis Vuitton's new store on Bond Street in London. “It was fun — but I think I’ll stick to my day job,” he quipped.
Jacobs celebrated with the likes of Stella Tennant, Bernard Arnault, Carine Roitfeld, and Natalia Vodianova, and opened up about his recent hair transplant, which had him avoiding press and cameras at the Costume Institute Gala earlier this month. "I was starting to thin on top. I can’t dye it for a while, so this is my natural colour.”
He also hinted that the Louis Vuitton logo that he has helped make so ubiquitous almost got squelched way back when he first started at the brand: "When I arrived at Louis Vuitton 12 years ago, and I was figuring out how to create a new tier of Vuitton for a different customer, I thought it would be clever to hide that monogram, which was very stupid of me. That logo is part of what makes the Vuitton so desirable. It allows people to become members of an aspirational club."
Logos are to be expected, but not Louis Vuitton couture — Jacobs says he has no desire to launch such a collection. “Some of what we already do at ready-to-wear is pretty much at couture level, anyway."
Christophe Lemaire, the man behind the commercial resurgence of Lacoste, is headed to Hermes. It was announced today that Lemarie will be replacing Jean-Paul Gaultier, who has been at Hermes for seven years and is reportedly leaving to focus on his namesake lines. Gaultier will stay on at Hermes until the Spring 2011 runway show in Paris this October, and Hermes will continue to own a 45% stake in Gaultier's fashion house.
News of Gaultier's departure comes two weeks after the death of Jean-Louis Dumas, former president and chief executive of Hermes, who hired Gaultier in 2003 to jump-start the the company's ready-to-wear business. “Hermes is deeply grateful to Jean-Paul Gaultier for his outstanding creative contribution,” the company said today in a statement.
Christophe Lemaire, who will show his first Hermes collection for the Fall 2011 season, launched his own brand in 1991 and has worked in the houses of Christian Lacroix, Jean Patou, Yves Saint Laurent, and Thierry Mugler.
>> Giles Deacon Thinks Carine Roitfeld's "Tarty with Elegance" Style Sums Up His Ungaro Vision —Just yesterday, Giles Deacon was announced as Emanuel Ungaro's creative director, and today, he's already prosyletizing the brand, with his sights set on converting a certain Vogue Paris editor: "Carine Roitfeld has a very Ungaro feel about the way she dresses: the tailored jacket, the pencil skirt. It’s kind of tarty with intelligence. I see them as really empowering clothes, and lots of women like playing with the psychology of all that. It’s an interesting game." [Style File]
Last night's Mulberry-sponsored party celebrating the launch of Venetia Dearden's book Glastonbury, Another Stage at Milk Studios's penthouse was chock-full of statuesque revelers, though two models in particular seemed to steer clear of each other. Agyness Deyn stayed ensconced with a group of friends, while on the other side of the bash her ex-fiance Albert Hammond, Jr. held hands — possibly in a friendly way? — with Irina Lazareanu. Elsewhere, Alek Wek and Jacquelyn Jablonski mingled near Chanel Iman and her boyfriend Ryan Leslie. Leigh Lezark and Michelle Trachtenberg arrived together and stayed attached at the hip throughout the night. In the spirit of Venetia's publication, the event was complete with an indoor teepee and there was music aplenty. Brooklyn's Chairlift was the main attraction, with London socialite Jackson Scott's flamenco guitar act Mano de Dios as the opener.
>> Corroborating rumors that first popped up last August, Hermes announced today that Jean Paul Gaultier is leaving his post as creative director of the brand.
"After seven fruitful years of creative partnership, Hermès and Jean-Paul Gaultier artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear, have decided to bring to an end their collaboration allowing Jean-Paul Gaultier to concentrate on his own projects," read the release. "The spring-summer 2011 collection to be revealed in October 2010 will be the last collection created by Jean-Paul Gaultier for Hermès. Hermès is deeply grateful to Jean-Paul Gaultier for his outstanding creative contribution during these seven years.”
>> Last week, when Tyra Banks announced she was returning to IMG Models, questions rose about whether she would be returning to runways (she retired in 2005) — but it sounds like she's more interested in becoming a spokeswoman, lending her name and image to other brands, than anything else.
In a statement released, she noted: "The last time I was with IMG, I was set on taking on the modeling world in the high fashion and commercial sectors. Now I’m dreaming even bigger, but this time for my company as well. Aligning myself with brands that I believe in, and helping them achieve the kind of success they’re looking for, helps all of us as we grow our businesses."
And Ivan Bart, SVP of IMG Models, added: "IMG will help expand her relationships with companies through endorsements, and will assist her in developing business relationships with sponsors whose missions she feels strongly about."
With the help of her nearest and dearest trendsetting friends, Missoni has designed a youthful lineup of colorful, chain strap handbags with the house's signature zigzag prints firmly in place. The small five-piece lineup features bags named after (and inspired by) Missoni's best friends—a crocodile, leather, and suede patchwork shoulder bag (called "Euge" for Eugenie Niarchos), a ladylike wool and lace carryall in red ("Tats" for Tatiana Santo Domingo), a green quilted leather bag with chain straps (the "LSD" for Lauren Santo Domingo), and the matching "Coco B" and "Coquine" (both named after Coco Brandolini). The bags are priced from $1,275 for the LSD to $3,140 for the Euge and for an extra $185, you can adorn each with detachable Missoni pompoms.
Before there was Marc Jacobs taking it all off for Bang, Yves Saint Laurent was posing naked for his own men's fragrance campaign. A nude photograph of the late designer will be up for auction at Christie's in Paris next month as part of a sale featuring 60 photographs by Jeanloup Sieff. The photo of Saint Laurent (at left) was used for Pour Homme, the first YSL men's fragrance advertising campaign in 1971.
Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent's business partner, in 1997 said of the image: "It was just provocation on the part of Yves Saint Laurent. The picture didn't specifically target the gay population, even though it resonated strongly among them. In any case the photo was hardly published at the time. Just barely in the French press. It was only much later on that it became an almost mythical icon."
CFDA Awards update: Sarah Jessica Parker will honor the late Alexander McQueen with the CFDA Board of Directors’ Special Tribute Award, and Caroline Kennedy will present Vogue fashion director Tonne Goodman with the Eleanor Lambert Award.
Maison Martin Margiela “20”: The Exhibition opens June 3 and runs through Sept. 5 at Somerset House in London.