>> In the wake of the womanly casting agendas at Prada, Giles, and Louis Vuitton for Fall 2010, The Imagist writes: "There's an unwritten memo now circulating . . . amongst a tight circle of model-makers and the message is this: the directive of the '00s to have armies of blank, disposable, lookalike girls marching at the service of the campaigns, magazines and the runways is over. New decade, new ideal . . . the early booking reports on the FW 10 campaigns and editorials is registering is a taste for ultra-individual girl." He hints that the Givenchy Fall 2010 ads and a Vogue Italia editorial currently being lensed both support the new direction.
Meanwhile, in a follow-up to yesterday's news that Monika "Jac" Jagaciak's exclusive with Calvin Klein is now over, word is the brand now has an exclusive with Lara Stone — reportedly for CK collection, Jeans, and cosmetics — a choice that could also be seen as indicative of the move toward distinctive models.
Posts for March 23rd 2010
>> Tonchi: New W to Be More Accessible; Suggested T Editor Possibilities?— W's new editor Stefano Tonchi acknowledged earlier today that he aims to make the magazine more accessible, “probably to just make it more of a general-interest style magazine, and less of a fashion-obsessed publication.” Even before Tonchi was confirmed today, rumors were circling this weekend that W will be moving further away from its current "high art/high fashion/high society/token celebrity" cachet, as The Imagist puts it, and "swerving closer to the In Style magazine model. Or in other words, 'In Style Deluxe.'" Meanwhile, suggestions are already being made for T's currently empty editor-in-chief position: The Imagist suggests T features director Horacia Silva, while The Daily is leaning toward former Elle creative director Gilles Bensimon, former Interview editor Ingrid Sischy, Interview's editorial director Fabien Baron, Elle's fashion news director Anne Slowey, or T's fashion director Anne Christensen. [TI, FWD]
>> The single-model issue concept is picking up steam, and it's only logical that Naomi Campbell, newly a Russian resident, should have an entire issue of Vogue Russia. Editor Aliona Doletskaya says of the April 2010 issue, which is dedicated to Naomi and which the model helped edit [Editor's note: loosely translated from Russian]: "I wanted to debunk a few myths surrounding Naomi. When I suggested the concept, she immediately came and for an hour and a half laid out stories, photography, interviews and other sections. Clearly, quickly, and in a businesslike manner."
In the issue, out March 25, Christian Louboutin, Chanel Iman, Claudia Schiffer, Mario Testino, and more were prompted to ask Naomi what they have previously hesistated to ask her. Steven Meisel, Tom Munro, Matt Irwin, and Solve Sundsbo photographed the model's editorials.
Gallery is NSFW.
>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy Designed Ballet Costumes For Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan Film—After Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy signed with WME last September to explore entertainment opportunities, it was only a matter of time before their work showed up on film. Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan seems a good fit, not only because of the Mulleavys' love for horror films (Black Swan is a thriller), but because Natalie Portman, who attended the Fall 2010 Rodarte show, stars alongside Mila Kunis. The movie features scenes from "Swan Lake," for which the Mulleavys designed ballet costumes. [WWD]
Marc Jacobs on His Fall 2010 Louis Vuitton Cast, the Origins of His Skirt Obsession, and Red Carpet Dressing
>> Last night in Manhattan, Marc Jacobs participated in the French Institute Alliance Française Fashion Talks Series, where he explained that he wasn't attempting to make a statement about age or body type with his womanly Fall 2010 Louis Vuitton cast.
“I believe that these iconic, larger-than-life women are very Vuitton-like . . . This season we talked about it and we decided the criteria was, they have to be available on the day of the show and they have to be gorgeous," he explained. "So we just kept throwing out names . . . I suggested Elle Macpherson and Laetitia Casta, and [my stylist Katie Grand] suggested Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima." Some models Jacobs wanted for the show didn't work out. "There were plenty of other girls who we wanted to work with who weren’t available. We wanted Daria [Werbowy], but she was booked for a shoot, and Isabeli [Fontana] but she was booked for a shoot." The ultimate goal of the cast, he said, was to have people who "don’t know anything about fashion" say "That was a gorgeous show."
Last night as part of the French Institute Alliance Française Fashion Talks series, Marc Jacobs spoke with the deputy director of the Museum at F.I.T., Patricia Mears. He revealed his early beginnings with Robert Duffy, who sat in the audience at Jacobs's Parsons graduate show; hiring Tom Ford, Tracey Reese, and then-event photographer Steven Meisel while working at Perry Ellis; casting bombshells at Louis Vuitton fashion shows; and his love of Paris. Below are some choice quotes from the discussion.
On being fired from Perry Ellis: "People love to attribute it to the grunge collection, but it was complicated. . . It was probably the best thing that has ever happened to me. Although at the time I didn't think it was an opportunity. . . "
On starting his Marc Jacobs line with Robert Duffy soon after: "Some drunken night with no one around we decided to use our severance from Perry Ellis and buy a tiny studio at 113 Spring Street. . . We were back to doing everything ourselves, and Robert was mortgaging his house to support the company."
On the start of Juergen Teller-lensed ad campaigns: "We worked with Venetia Scott, Juergen's then girlfriend, and needed an ad for a friend's new magazine. I asked Juergen to take a photo of Kim Gordon, who was wearing one on my dresses on stage, and that became our ad."
On the Louis Vuitton woman: "She wants her friends to know she has the latest bag. She's wants to pop out of her corset, . . she's more superficial, but I mean that in a good way."
On red carpet dressing: "It doesn't interest me much. If someone wants to borrow a dress and it's around, that's fine. I don't put my energy into the idea of dressing people for red carpet events."
On his love of Paris: "Going to Paris for the first time is like losing your virginity. Even if it's bad, it only happens once."
>> Steven Klein Enlisted to Direct Lady Gaga "Alejandro" Video—Steven Klein, who has collaborated with Madonna often, in print as well as on background videos for her 2004 and 2006 concert tours, has reportedly been tapped to direct the music video for Lady Gaga's next single, "Alejandro." The choice is a departure for Gaga, who typically works with music video veterans. The single is expected to hit mainstream radio airwaves on April 20; no word yet on the video drop date. [WWD]
>> After almost a week of guessing, Stefano Tonchi was named the new editor-in-chief of W, succeeding Patrick McCarthy, this morning, Fashion Week Daily reports. The T and W staffs have both been notified of the move. No one has been named yet as Tonchi's replacement at T, and no word on what effect the move will have on W's current staff — it's been rumored that some of the executive staff may leave.
Tonchi's new position at W is effective April 12, and he will report to Conde Nast editorial director Thomas J. Wallace. “Stefano Tonchi is an extraordinarily versatile editor whose expertise in the world of art, fashion, design, and entertainment will help W realize its full potential in both print and digital formats,” said Wallace. “We welcome him back to Condé Nast.”
Following much speculation surrounding the newly open editor job at W magazine, the New York Times media industry blog, Media Decoder, announced:
"Stefano Tonchi, the editor of T: The New York Times Style Magazine, has been appointed editor of W, the fashion magazine published by Condé Nast. The news is expected to be announced at a staff meeting for T employees at 11:30 this morning."
Donatella Versace presented her spring 2010 Atelier Versace couture collection by appointment only in Paris last January, and this week released images from the look book starring Kasia Struss. With the house on track to be profitable by 2011, its recent well-reviewed collections, and for the first time offering ready-to-wear and accessories online at Net-a-Porter, it looks like 2010 might be a very good year for Donatella and company. Click below for the complete Atelier Versace look book.