New York 02/17/10 Getty
Posts for February 17th 2010
Proenza Schouler Fall 2010: Graffiti Pants, Schoolgirl Skirts — And Anna Wintour Watching Without Her Sunglasses On
>> If you didn't get enough late '90s references at Alexander Wang, look to Proenza Schouler to fill your Fall 2010 quota. Newcomer Ann Kenny — who has the most arresting blue eyes — opened the show in high-waisted graffiti pants, made in collaboration with J Brand, and a shrunken navy toggle jacket. All the John Fleuvog-style curved platform heels and sheer thigh highs paired with full pleated school girl-style miniskirts must have caught Anna Wintour's attention — she sat next to Bee Shaffer the entire show, sunglasses-less (a first?), until the final runthrough when she finally put her trademark shades on.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had the house packed: benches arranged around the X-shaped runway sat as many as they could possibly fit — with the likes of Pamela Love, Mary-Kate Olsen, Jen Brill, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Carine Roitfeld (in green furry heels), Joseph Altuzarra, Lauren Santo Domingo, Vanessa Traina, Chloe Sevigny, Craig McDean, Terry Richardson, and Olivier Zahm all accounted for. Bass pumped through Milk Studios loud enough to shake the walls, while fuzzy printed flannel dresses and alpine knits evolved into razor-sharp cropped jackets and finally, patterned minidresses with bubble skirts and trapeze shapes.
Marie Chaix styled once again, and if you're a fan of straight-off-the-runway (many front-rowers had their PS 1 clutches handy), for the next 24-odd hours, two of the runway handbags are available for purchase. Post-show, a sight: Hamish Bowles, in his usual dapper suit, but instead of his usual brogues, his trousers stuffed into shiny black wellies. A video of the show can be seen here.
>> Rose Cordero's Solo March 2010 Vogue Paris Cover Marks First for Black Model Since 2002 —Rose Cordero was photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for Vogue Paris's March 2010 cover, marking her first Vogue cover and the first Vogue Paris cover featuring solely a black model since Liya Kebede's in May 2002. (Noemie Lenoir had a solo cover for the magazine's June/July 2008 issue, but she shared the honors with Laetitia Casta). [Models.com]
As promised Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler are offering a pre-sale on their fall 2010 handbags, which hit the runway during New York Fashion Week only two hours ago. The PS11 bag (not to be confused with their ever-popular PS1) is more structured than its older sister and covered in silver hardware and a few inverted studs. The PS11 bag is available online now in black and saddle leather for $1850 and ships July 30. . . because it's never too early to get a head start on fall shopping.
"Fall 2010 is all about texture, texture, texture," Michael Kors told us backstage before his fashion show this morning. Texture which soon appeared on the runwway (mostly in a palette of camel and gray) in the form of giant furs, crushed cashmere, ribbed knitwear, tweeds, and mohair.
This season Kors' luxe-loving customers will no doubt be pleased with his lineup of chic mountain looks including a series of sumptuous oversized furs (a long coyote vest on Abbey Lee, a giant fox stole on Frankie Rayder, Natasa's hooded anorak) and monochromatic layered knitwear (thick knee-high socks, cowl-neck dresses, and turtlenecks).
The collection was designed to offer a complete wardrobe according to Kors—not pieces which are worn once, but "clothes that can become old friends." An idea best expressed through new takes on closet classics. Kors turned old stanbys like the gray flannel suit and the camel coat into a stretch jacket with elbow slits topping slouched pants or shorts and a duster made of crushed cashmere and worn with sweatpants.
Accessories echoed a similar relaxed glamour with fur playing a prominent role in both flat boots and handbags. For evening, there were camel-colored cashmere column gowns and paillette-covered jersey dresses in gold, black, and bronze. Leaving nothing left to want next winter, save the plane tickets to Gstaad.