>> LVMH Still Keeping Front Row Eye on Rodarte —For the second season in a row, Pierre-Yves Roussel, CEO of LVMH's fashion division, who plays a key role in spotting talent for LVMH labels, was front row at Rodarte. When asked about possible placement of Laura and Kate Mulleavy within the LVMH portfolio, Roussel played coy. All he would say: "We still love what they do." [WWD Blog]
Posts for February 16th 2010
>> Last night, in a dimly-lit warehouse space in New York's Hell's Kitchen, Marios Schwab unveiled his first collection for Halston. The house has had a rocky past since its namesake designer died in 1990, not excluding under the current management of Harvey Weinstein; in other words, the pressure was on for Fall 2010, with the feeling very do or die.
The models stood, sat, or lounged in a mirrored set, full of linear and geometric shapes, showing off their largely monochrome looks in a variety of colors. There was plenty of draping to go around, but also a bit of stiffness — one tan dress had a barely detectable pentagon shape coming out of its center. Marios, mingling with the crowd, explained that he was less interested in the Halston archives — he only used his memories of the pieces — and instead focused on the Halston idea of creating timeless pieces for strong women. He said of his Halston girl: "She is open minded. She is the daughter of the original Halston woman.”
Harvey Weinstein and newly-named Halston president and chief creative officer Sarah Jessica Parker, too, were on hand — the latter overheard saying when she arrived, “Excuse me, I have to meet Marios!” before congratulating the designer. Kate Young styled, and Schwab had London-based jeweler Jacqueline Rabun create silver accessories — including ear cuffs — in organic shapes remniscent of Elsa Peretti's work for the original Halston.
Puff-strapped sandals caught the eye of many, but on a whole, Cathy Horyn was still not convinced:
Marios Schwab, the latest designer at Halston, appeared to struggle in his first effort. A handful of fluid silk jersey dresses looked Halston-ish. But it was hard to see how his lineup of stiffly constructed dresses and twisted velvet chemises varied significantly from his own label in London. It’s not that Mr. Schwab has to adapt his style to the heritage of Halston. Who remembers exactly what that was, anyway? But the two sides need to stop fighting so much.
>> Mathilde Frachon Takes a Spill at Marc by Marc Jacobs —Agyness Deyn kicked off this season's edition of falling models at Fashion for Relief on Friday, where she fell twice, but it was Mathilde Frachon who took a tumble today at the Marc Jacobs show, despite the fact that she was in kitten heeled boots. Blame it on the floor — Robert Duffy Tweeted after the fact: "I was very nervious. 5 girls slipped and thankfully didn't get hurt." [The Cut, @Fashionista_com, TFS, @robertcduffy]
In recent years too many designers have passed through the house of Halston, but let us all hope Marios Schwab sticks around for more than a season or two. With no more than a gentle nod to the house's historic roots, last night Schwab presented a powerful, modern fall 2010 collection for Halston which was decidedly more confident than past designers' attempts.
The 1978 film starring Faye Dunaway, The Eyes of Laura Mars, inspired both the set design—3D shards of mirror—and the collection's jewel tone palette. Color was used most notably in a yellow gold knit cape dress, an emerald green tunic and trouser combo, a blue velvet draped dress, and a crimson boat neck mini with epaulettes. Softer shades—putty, blush, and gray—provided some contrast in an group of neoprene sculpted dresses and fur embellished coats and sweater dresses, often outlined in graphic Swarovski studs.
As beautiful as the clothes were, we must admit the footwear almost stole the show. Neutral-colored booties with slits down the front, mink and pony shearling gladiator heels, sandal straps made with puffy suede tubes, and chunky chain platforms had nearly every editor we spoke to eager to place their personal orders.
Sarah Jessica Parker was in attendance (animated and looking quite pleased), no doubt soaking up inspiration for her upcoming Halston Heritage collection. Perhaps Parker is owed a little credit for this collection as well. In her new role, she will be responsible for the reinvention of signature pieces, which gives Schwab the freedom to dream up more forward-thinking designs for the storied label.