New York 02/11/10 WireImage
Posts for February 12th 2010
For fall 2010 Jen Kao experimented with knitwear, exotic skins, and fur— her signature paneling firmly in place.
Presented at Milk Studios, Kao's photogenic front row included a long list of fashion's girls of the moment. Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Lauren Santo Domingo, Becka Diamond, Harley Viera-Newton, and Pamela Love all looked on as Kao's first five looks—seriously micro cable knit sweater dresses—gave way to slightly more modest pieces.
Most notable were a sequin wool dress with padded shoulders, fur paneled leather vests, a pair of quilted shorts paired with a cashmere blazer, and a shear turtleneck and fur-fringed skirt combo. The color palette moved from black to jade to oxblood and back again to black, and hardcore python piping and leather paneling found balance in soft draped pants paired with oversized jersey tanks.
Collaborating with Eddie Borgo on jewelry for the third season and for the first time with Alejandro Ingelmo on shoes, the accessories were spot on. Interlocking cuffs, stacked bangles, spiked double rings, and architectural collars by Borgo and open-toe stiletto booties from Ingelmo added to the toughness of the collection.
The show ended with a series of black floor-length gowns, gothic in their high collars, long sleeves, and aggressive jewels—Jen's Kao's tough girl gone glam.
As yesterday's devastating news of Alexander McQueen's death reached those in the fashion world, many weighed in on the loss of perhaps the industry's most creative genius. T magazine's Stefano Tonchi suggests that same fashion industry should take the blame for McQueen's death, making his point that its business pressures sent him over the edge:
“We all know that this is a very critical moment in fashion, and that basically he is the first victim of what is a conflict between creativity and business. When McQueen began in fashion, designers worked on two or three collections a year, said Tonchi. “Now you have to be a business manager, a marketer. It’s, what? Eight, ten, fifteen collections a year. Men’s, women’s, couture, diffusion. Then they want accessories. Then they want watches. Then they want jewelry. It’s a machine, and I think that killed him.”
Others perhaps feeling it too soon to direct blame, provided their condolences to the McQueen family and remembered their incredibly talented friend:
Cathy Horyn: "Alexander McQueen's death is just incredibly sad. That is the only work for it. He was enormously creative and intelligent—and funny and rude and fearless. He said what he thought—a rarity in the fashion establishment—and very often he could wind you up, toy with you, pull a bit of wool over your wide, innocent eyes. But he was the real: a genuinely talented man. Soulful, deeply English and, of course, dark. He did have a dark, romantic side that surfaced in his collections. Depressed at times? I didn’t know him well enough to say so, but I would imagine he had his moments of despair. This is a tough business, and as tough and brash as he often appeared, he a sweet and sensitive person."
Marc Jacobs: “He is such a great guy and such an amazing talent that it is so devastating to know he is gone. I will miss him, and I will certainly miss the beauty that he created, and his vision and his world."
Alexandra Shulman: "McQueen influenced a whole generation of designers. His brilliant imagination knew no bounds as he conjured up collection after collection of extraordinary designs."
Daphne Guinness: "He was the kindest, shiest, funniest person. And when the chips were down, he was there. He wasn’t a flake. You could count on him. I will miss him."
Philip Treacy: "In a world where every man and his dog is a designer, Alexander McQueen was the real deal. His talent was supersonic."
Stella McCartney: "Lee was a fashion genius. I don’t say that lightly, and it is a total shock that I am referring to him in the past tense. He was a real friend. I will miss him as a mate, a peer, and as a true British talent, full of life and energy in everything he ever did.”