>> Now that you checked out our top 50 footwear picks, it's time to focus on the hottest handbags for Spring 2011. We scoured through collections from New York, London, Milan, and Paris and chose our 50 favorites — from the likes of Chanel, Chloe, and Prada — for you to peruse. Let the bag envy begin.
Posts for October 12th 2010
>> German magazine Zeit magazin is celebrating its 40th anniversary with 40 different covers featuring Claudia Schiffer, five of which have been released and show Claudia as a protester, a hippie, a prep, a grunger, and a clubber; the rest come out on Thursday. The magazine's editorial director Christoph Amend explained Schiffer as cover choice: "We look back on 40 years of life. As Claudia Schiffer is 40 just now, she was our model for the cover." A video from the shoot, which lasted two days in London, can be seen here.
>> Garance Dore and Scott Schuman have been dating for two years, but their lives also intersect professionally, meaning that sometimes they — and other street-style photographers — sometimes hone in on the same subjects. “We all shoot things in different ways,” Dore says. “But if both Scott and I have a good picture of the same girl, we’ll both post it. We share some readers, and some readers aren’t the same.” She has been doing her blog for four years, and Schuman has been doing his for just over five, but she adds that he is “almost like my editor in chief.” [Harper's Bazaar]
Rodarte Used Floorboards to Make Their Spring 2011 Prints, Spent a Month Looking for the Right Button
>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy recently announced that they're collaborating with Opening Ceremony on womenswear, menswear, shoes, handbags, eyewear, hosiery for Spring under the label Rodarte for Opening Ceremony. Laura sat down with the retailer to talk about creating prints for their own label — "For the new [Spring 2011] collection, we did about 20 prints and 12 of them were off '70s wood paneling, different floorboards" — and their month-long quest for the right button: "We used a button for the first time, and that was traumatic! We needed one for this pair of shorts because it looked cute. And I hate buttons. So, we looked for buttons for a month at every source of buttons in the world and we never found one we liked. So, eventually I was talking to this tailor when I was picking up my dry cleaning, and I was like, 'Well, what do guys use for buttons?' and he said, 'Just make a covered button.' So, that's what we did. But it was flat, so it doesn't look like anything!"
She also explained how the Black Swan collaboration came about: "Someone in LA said to us, 'I don't know if you've heard about this secret script that's going around Hollywood, but I think it would be perfect for you to do something with this film.' It's basically a ballet horror film, which we had done a whole collection of. It went really well. I think what we do aesthetically worked for what he needed for the film. It's like a whole Swan Lake with a demon and everything, it's really cool. I think when you see it, you're gonna freak out."
>> Anna Dello Russo has become a street-style photographer's favorite, to say the least, but her relationship with Jak & Jil's Tommy Ton seems to be strongest — she gave him the opportunity for his first fashion editorial, invited him to her suite at the Ritz Paris to photograph her as she readied for the Vogue Paris masquerade ball during Paris Fashion Week, and now, she blogs: "My next wish? Do a book with my whole collection of clothing by Tommy Ton." The resultant photos, coupled with some of her ten-rule lists, which are becoming a signature on her blog — the latest is about wearing headpieces, with tips like "Don't wear hats everyday! The effect will be stronger" and "Fruits will be the big trend of next season" — would be something to behold. [ADR]
>> It's Helmut Lang's shearling jacket that is currently sending hearts a-pitter, but what about next Spring? We've got the full Spring 2011 lookbook, complete with a peek at the brand's first handbag collection under designers Nicole and Michael Colovos. The bags — which range in clutches, hobos, and shoulder bags in napa leather and perch skin — are inspired by motorcycle jackets and feature brass buckles remniscent of a shark's tooth and braided fisherman’s handles, both a nod to Michael's previous career as a commercial fisherman.
>> Cathy Horyn is known for her acerbic take on fashion — in her review of Alexander Wang's Spring 2011 collection, she set tongues wagging after pronouncing: "Mr. Wang is not a great designer, though he probably would be happy to accept any laurels that people want to toss him, but he is clearly a shrewd guy . . . The designs were cool, but they didn’t have to stand up to much scrutiny — hey, didn’t Marni do those pants last season? — so long as the stuff was widely and easily available. Mr. Wang doesn’t really have courage in the traditional sense of trying something new and difficult, but he does have China. Nearly all of his clothing is now produced there."
Horyn more recently spent time at Azzedine Alaia's boutique during Paris Fashion Week — Wang also happened to be there, although no word on whether there was any interaction — and she explained to The Daily Beast that her goal is to bring a critical eye to those admired uncritically: "With Alexander, he's a smart kid, I admire the business that he's built, but you have to be critical of what he's done. You can't just say 'Oh well, he's young and he's working hard, he's putting a product on the runway.' I found that show boring. I may not have found other shows boring, but I found that one boring."
She's also critical of Fashion's Night Out: "I hope it doesn't go on. I don't want it to continue . . . You know, we're a nation of shoppers. That's how people spend their time, shopping online, shopping in stores, acquiring. And I feel like we perpetuate that with Fashion's Night Out. What are you really celebrating? Not art or great books. You're celebrating shopping."
Horyn sums up her critical approach as thus: "[I] want people to be better. [I] have standards. [I] want people to be not just good but very good. And I can be tough on people, sometimes too tough, especially with the most creative. I once called one of Tom Ford's collections freakish and ugly."
For all of Horyn's words logged on designers, however, The Daily Beast had trouble getting anyone to speak about Horyn: "During Fashion Week, I went from show to show, and party to party, asking about Horyn. Almost everyone declined comment or claimed that they don't actually read her reviews." A few did speak, however. "I prefer to look at beautiful pictures in magazines like American Vogue and French Vogue by editors like Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld," Karl Lagerfeld said. "I don't think reviews really matter anymore," Carolina Herrera said. Donna Karan admitted, meanwhile, that getting swiped by Horyn "still hurts. You can agree or disagree with her, but it's definitely passionate. She's not neutered, let's put it that way."
>> One week after launching a new logo on its website, Gap is back to its tried and true Gap-in-a-blue-box logo. Marka Hansen, Gap North America president, informed the company's marketing department yesterday afternoon that the new logo — which featured the retailer's name in a bold black font with a blue gradiated box perched atop the P — would be scrapped, even though it was intended to be a long-term commitment for the brand. Hansen acknowledged that the switch was a mistake and that the company would be tabling any changes for the foreseeable future. The logo was created by Laird & Partners, which also works with the CFDA. [AdAge]
>> Fashion's Night Out may be Anna Wintour's event, but the Vogue UK team is piggybacking off the idea with the launch of Fashion's Night In, essentially a Fashion's Night Out for etailers.
The FNI event is set for Nov. 1 from 5 pm until midnight, during which participating online retailers like Asos, Net-a-porter, and Browns will come up with initiatives, discounts, and competitions to boost online traffic and sales. Net-a-porter, for instance, plans to launch a dedicated Party Boutique for the evening, filled with party dresses, shoes, and jewelry picked specifically for the occasion — and free shipping will be offered. Both etailers and shoppers can find out more information about participating on the event's dedicated site.