New York 09/13/09. WireImage
Posts for September 14th 2009
Fashion In 50 Seconds 09/14/09 Barneys Didn't Have a Spectacular FNO, Roitfeld Would Consider American Vogue
Fashion's Night Out fails to bring in spectacular sales for Barneys.
Carine Roitfeld would consider taking Anna Wintour's job — if offered.
Take a sneak peek at Molly Sims' HSN jewelry.
Carolina Herrera president Mario Grauso stepped down from his post following today's show.
Diane von Furstenberg's global nomad bounced around the north African desert this season, making a sunset stop along the Nile River. Von Frustenberg is known to put on a great show, and this season her powerful front row included André Leon Talley, Tina Brown, Fran Lebowitz, Graydon Carter, Terry Richardson and Carine Roitfeld (in a blue and white striped button down shirt and khaki pencil skirt).
Presenting a collection of very wearable separates and dresses—we especially loved a cream tunic embellished with blue floral beading and the perfect-for-traveling, colorful jersey dresses—von Furstenberg is in her element designing for the spring season, when shoppers long for color and print. The strongest prints—animal skin safari, washed-out florals and ancient-inspired graphics—were offset by vibrant solid pieces in slate, red, green and yellow.
The bounty of accessories on the runway were one-part Egyptian Queen (armfuls of woven bangles) and one part Greek Goddess (gold laurel wreaths), celebrating the free-spirited traveler that is Diane von Furstenberg.
For spring 2010 Derek Lam was interested in dressing women for fun, carefree summers in colorful clothing and accessories. The designer looked to American boardwalks and east coast beach retreats for inspiration.
Lam loves glamour and this season was no exception. Models (including Caroline Trentini making her spring debut) walked the runway in perfectly put together optimistic looks that made us want to fast forward through the colder months this year—think Palm Beach florals on high-waisted skirts and mini dresses, tiny star printed blouses, and "deck-side" one-piece suits that should never hit the water.
Stars were a major theme for Lam, also showing up on oversized Dean Harris earrings (in gold, blue and white), as grommets on suede and leather belts, and as an oversized graphic print on Lily Donaldson's black and white sundress.
In recent seasons Lam's accessory business has taken off—especially his handbags which we've seen on the shoulders of editors from Vogue, Elle and Style.com this week. For spring he'll no doubt delight fans with an update on fall's tassel and fringe bag and beautiful suede lace-up platform heels in cognac, teal and black.
>> You would never guess that Derek Lam has recently had to address rumors of label mismanagement — he gave the Wall Street Journal a lengthy interview that could be seen as his way of responding in detail — because there was no storm in his Spring 2010 collection, only sunny, beachy lightness, an "ode to summer."
For his first time showing at the Tents, Lam decided to switch things up; he told Style.com: "I haven't done full-on color for a while, and it feels like the right moment now." He peppered a star motif throughout, studding wrap belts (one of which, unfortunately for Charlotte di Calypso, popped open halfway down the runway, leaving her to smile embarrassedly and hold her dress together the rest of the way), printed on dresses, centered in Dean Harris's earrings for the collection. And the finale was a set of pinup-style "deckside one pieces," not for swimming. Vogue's Elissa Santisi styled, Caroline Trentini made her season runway debut, and Lily Donaldson accompanied Lam for his bow, the two chatting and holding hands the entire time.
>> Gareth Pugh's Spring 2010 Inspiration Film Debuts in New York, Online — This evening in New York, Gareth Pugh hosted a teaser presentation as a prelude to his runway show in Paris. The project, produced with filmmaker Ruth Hogben, outlines the inspirations for the collection — earth, wind, fire, and water — and involved four films being projected onto a monolithic cube in the center of the presentation space; experience the result here. Pugh told Fashion TV he didn't want to upstage his Paris show, so he opted for a different medium, and promised that his next collection will be something very unexpected. [ShowStudio, Dazed Digital]
>> Joseph Altuzarra may be a bit of a Vogue Paris darling — he told The Daily he credits Carine Roitfeld for encouraging him to start his own line, she's supported him by wearing a coat of his to Paris Fashion Week in March, and her former assistant and Vogue Paris junior editor Melanie Huynh styled his Spring 2010 show — but it sounds like he's committed to New York; he told The Daily: "We want to establish the brand as an integral part of the New York scene."
Altuzarra, like Alexander Wang, switched up his look this season, explaining to the New York Times: "When you start a collection, you have to push yourself to limits that may make you uncomfortable but that are also challenging.” Instead of building on the body-conscious jersey minidresses from his Fall 2009 collection, he decided to channel the '70s with lots of olive suede and white ruffles. The show, in which both muse Vanessa Traina and Dewi Driegen walked, attracted Colette's Sarah Lerfel, Giovanna Battaglia, Carine Roitfeld and daughter Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Steven Kolb, Fabien Baron, plus Alexander Wang, who showed up midway through (his show was slotted right before Joseph's) and watched from the back next to Cathy Horyn, who had gotten up from the front row to stand next to the photographers right before show started.
Altuzarra expanded from 18 looks last season to 29 this season, and dreams of continuing to move further forward; as he told The Daily:
I basically work and live in the same place, which can be really good or really bad. We want to grow by baby steps, but I'm very happy now . . . A few more clothes and a large shoe and jewelry line would be nice, though. Our immediate goal, of course, is to find an office space and move operations out of my apartment.