>> Gender-Bending Male Model Martin Cohn Closes Elise Overland in a Dress —Elise Overland, who got her start designing clothes for Steven Tyler, always has plenty of rock star feel infused into her collections: lambskin was her material of choice for Spring 2010, and Mick Rock's daughter Nathalie took the catwalk for look 14. But most noteworthy was the closer: androgynous male model Martin Cohn walked out wearing a sequined black dress, platform heels, and what appeared to be fake breasts. [Faran Krentcil Twitter, Faran Krentcil Twitter]
Posts for September 14th 2009
>> Before the finale march, Anna Wintour ducked out at Donna Karan to hightail it to Queens and Roger Federer's guest box for the US Open men's title match. But she stuck around long enough to catch Donna's "urban atmosphere," as the designer put it to WWD, adding that she was "inspired by the power of the elements — the sky, water, wind, sand, earth, and fire" in her show notes. Karan's signature draped jersey was out in full force in all shades of neutrals, and the clothes felt very of the moment — meaning the moment many women are currently feeling to invest in solid, wearable, classic pieces rather than be tempted by those transient, of-the-moment-or-maybe-the-season-if-you're-lucky pieces.
The show was held in Karan's downtown studio space, which ended up packed to the gills, and Milla Jovovich sat front row. Charlotte di Calypso, who's not having good luck with her accessories this week — yesterday her belt popped open at Derek Lam — glided by at one point, adjusting her Stephen Jones hat all the way around her loop, to keep it from falling off her head.
>> Alexander McQueen is Dating a Porn Star He Met Online —According to Cathy Horyn's article in yesterday's Men's Fashion Fall 2009 issue of T, Alexander McQueen is seeing a porn star, who he met online. Horyn writes: "'It's great! ' he cackles. [McQueen] told me the man's name but asked that I identify him only by his porn nom de famille, Mr. Stag." [T Magazine]
>> In a show venue like the inside of a lab — white walls and floor, white benches, and bright, bright lights — which caused for a sweltering experience — Marc Jacobs sent out his theater and romance-inspired Spring 2010 collection. Anna Wintour arrived twenty minutes early from the US Open — she ended up missing Roger Federer lose — and despite rumors that the show was to be celeb-free, Madonna and Jesus Luz took their seats and Lady Gaga, arriving mid-show, stood in the photographer's pit with Lorenzo Martone. Marc later told WWD that he hadn't invited either, but Madonna called three hours before the show — "after working with her [on the Louis Vuitton campaign] I couldn't say no" — and same goes for Gaga, who is performing at Marc and V Magazine's party tonight.
Jessica Stam and Suvi Koponen both walked for the first time this Fashion Week — in fact, instead of breaking new faces as his usually does, Marc stuck mostly to the familiars: Iris Strubegger opened, Kamila Filipcikova closed. The girls had on geisha-style makeup and topknots, and there was lots of femininity — pearl embellishments, lingerie layered over suits, ruffles — and a few surprises — scrunchies and kitten keels, for instance. Full play-by-play here.
According to makeup guru Francois Nars, the inspiration for Marc Jacobs's spring 2010 beauty look was "ballerina, caberet girl. . . broadway show meets opera meets Martha Graham. . . with a touch maybe of gothic". Nars used "tons of powder", liquid eyeliner, and two pairs of false eyelashes on each model. [NY Mag Video]
>> Marc Jacobs's Spring 2010 show is just a little over an hour away — and there's plenty of hints that have been going around. It's all front row again, according to today's The Daily, and Lorenzo Martone told The Cut it will celebrity-free: "I think Marc is really tired of the rock-and-roll thing, so it’s going to be very romantic. So: ruffles and prints and very kind of sweet.” Word a couple of days ago is that Marc was trying to convince some new faces to dye their hair black for the show, and The Imagist told us earlier today that it's supposedly not just black, but blonde, as well. As for whether the show will commence early, on-time, or late, Katie Grand "reliably" told Grazia that the lights will go down start 4 minutes late; that is, presumedly, unless Anna Wintour, who is coming from the US Open, is running late. [The Cut, Grazia Twitter]
Update: Supposedly the show is Geisha-themed. [Nylon Twitter]
>> Zac Posen's Spring 2010 Venue Switcheroo Causes Retailer Grief? —Zac Posen switched the big Tent at Bryant Park for the much smaller Altman Building this season — because it was better for the collection, not for financial reasons, he says — and this morning he had everything set up like an old fashion show: round areas of chairs, with the models posing and spinning for each section; Tiiu Kuik walked (left) — her first time on the runway since the Fall 2008 season. But later today at Carolina Herrera, a rumor was floating around that a few major retailers boycotted Zac's show because it wasn't handled as efficiently as usual . . . [The Cut Twitter, StyleWriterNYC Twitter]