Posts for September 10th 2009
“Wrapped and packaged” is how Prabal Gurung described his spring 2010 collection, the follow up to his debut presentation last fall. While the majority of his girls were literally wrapped and packaged in neat little bows and belts, the emphasis according to Gurung was on “sensual and fun clothing, nothing too vulgar or in your face.” In other words – classic, timeless pieces that call to mind Yves Saint Laurent, by whom the young designer has been greatly influenced.
Most of Gurung’s 26 looks focused on polished eveningwear, and the color palate mimicked that of last season – black, red and white – with a touch of well-placed electric blue.
Not one to shy away from luxury details, Gurung spared no expense on embroidered feathers used for a tuxedo blouse, a graphic tank made of four-ply silk crepe, and the intricate hand-beading on a black strapless dress. His attention to the finest element of design is best seen in one of the most outstanding (and more subtle) looks from the collection - a draped red silk dress with black inserts, gently gathered at the hip.
As fellow designer Peter Som (who worked with Gurung as the Creative Director of Bill Blass) observed as he fought the crowd to congratulate the designer on his successful collection, “It looks like he’s going to need a larger space next season.” With fashion notables including Olivia Chantecaille, Elettra Rossellini Wiedmann, Virginia Smith, Rachel Zoe and Lauren Santo Domingo braving the packed Chelsea gallery space to support Gurung, we couldn’t agree more.
Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai christened the second floor venue at Milk Studios to show their spring 2010 collection for Vena Cava in front of a packed house, including fellow designers (Patrick Robinson) and Vogue fashion editors (Sally Singer and Lauren Santo Domingo).
The Brooklyn-based design duo presented what has become their signature look, along with a few new tricks, in a collection that will undoubtedly please their fierce cult following. Acid washed rayon pieces in shades of brown and black made a major statement, best when paired with an orange laser-cut blouse or a black silk crepe sleeveless blazer. Also of note were pyramid studs on chiffon, a cropped bustier and the metal safety pin details seen on a short black dress.
Fans of Vena Cava’s one-of-a-kind printed fabrics will not be disappointed in the star print silk georgette shorts and dress, nor the green and black ancient mask print used in a mid-length chiffon gown. Styled with oversized black sun visors, armfuls of Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. bangles and Persol eyewear, the collection was a perfect mix of edgy clothes made for vintage shopping in Brooklyn and classic uptown accessories.
Best summed up by the show’s stylist Kate Young, “The Vena Cava girl is wearing luxury accessories like a quirky art dealer, not like a lady who lunches.”
>> Prabal Gurung is on the verge: Glenda Bailey stopped by this afternoon at his sunlit Flag Art Foundation presentation, Harper's Bazaar posse in tow, to schmooze with the designer; Meredith Melling Burke — in cropped Fashion's Night Out tee, natch — got a personal tour of the collection by the designer; fan Rachel Zoe — who recently dressed Demi Moore in Prabal — stopped by with assistant Brad Goreski, causing the usually imperturbable fashion crowd to collectively gawk; and Cathy Horyn stepped out of the elevator as I was leaving.
For his second eponymous collection, the Bill Blass alum, inspired by "Maggie Betts, Zoe Saldana, and Indre Rockefeller," as listed in his show notes, stuck largely to what he does best: cocktail dresses, all in a palette of cobalt, white, and black. The piece de resistance? A stunningly simple electric blue gown.
>> Anna Wintour Has A Shopping List for Tonight's Fashion's Night Out — In between kicking Fashion's Night Out off tonight at Macy's in Queens, stopping by Intermix to see Sienna Miller, Oscar de la Renta to see the designer sing, and Saks for the William Rast pop-up (she loves that Justin Timberlake), among other things, Anna Wintour does indeed plan to shop. She's looking to buy "something in red, some new boots, and some kind of savage fur." [Times UK]