>> Vogue Is Still Top When It Comes to Luxury Ads —Despite Elle surpassing Vogue for the first time ever in overall ad numbers and an anticipated drop in the September 2009 ad pages, Vogue is continuing to focus its efforts on luxury advertisers. As a result, its share of luxury ad pages have increased from 65 to 70 percent in the past year, surpassing fashion titles like Elle (whose luxury ads have decreased from 61 to 56 percent), InStyle (down from 52 to 44 percent) and Harper's Bazaar, according to a Vogue spokeswoman.
Posts for July 8th 2009
>> Kristen McMenamy has been resurrected on and off for the past few years since her heyday in the '90s, making an appearance on the Spring 2008 Givenchy runway and in the Fall 2006 Marc Jacobs campaign, and now Steven Meisel has brought the her back for the July 2009 cover of Vogue Italia and an accompanying 31-page spread dubbed "The Legend." For anyone, a Vogue Italia cover is a score, but it's not every day that Meisel — who generally likes to go with green talent for the magazine — picks a 42-year-old, nearly two decade fashion veteran.
Gallery is NSFW.
>> Peter Copping's First Nina Ricci Collection Said to be "Great" —We have yet to see any work from Peter Copping for Nina Ricci — his first collection for the line, for the Cruise 2010 season, was supposed to come out late last month and seems to be running a bit late — but it sounds like it's something to look forward to. Kate Betts's has "an extremely reliable Parisian source" who says that Copping's Cruise 2010 collection is "great." [Kate Betts Twitter]
>> Just as editors privy to a preview hinted yesterday, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's second couture outing — for Fall 2009 — was heavy on the black, lace, feathers, and gothic look — "radical," in a word, for Valentino. As Elle's Joe Zee put it, "Not one piece of red in sight. It's a new day at Valentino. Hell, there was barely any long. Just wisps of fabric with bows and frills."
The show took place in an old convent, with the runway featuring moving images of smoke projected on screens. Philip Treacy contributed shredded veils especially for the collection, and though reception to the designers has been tepid in the past, initial reaction seems positive. Says Style.com's Derek Blasberg: "Ok, it was good. But so black! . . . Methinks [Valentino] would be proud." And Joe Zee: "Attention Hollywood starlets: Please wear short to your next red carpet. And please call Valentino for it. Short has never looked so chic."
>> Two Vogue Editor-in-Chiefs MIA at Couture —Anna Wintour isn't the only one who is mysteriously missing from the front rows at couture, an unprecedented move; British Vogue's Alexandra Shulman is also missing in action. Both women have deputies on the scene, but their absence begs the question: Are the September issues causing an issue this year? [FWD]
>> Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2009 couture show was a spectacle — pre-show, Sasha Pivovarova sketched backstage, free Magnums and ice cream bars were handed out to help stifle the heat (Jean Paul even ate one as he took his bow). But that was just the beginning: Mickey Rourke never even made it to his front row seat due to the paparazzi scrum, instead taking in the show from the fifth row.
Gaultier drew inspiration from Old Hollywood — the seating was divided into old movie studios; models — including Erin O'Connor — were made up as Joan Crawford, Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth, Catherine Deneuve, Greta Garbo; and the dresses were based on iconic movies like Barbarella, Belle de Jour, African Queen, Anna Karenina, and A Star is Born. For the finale, the bride appeared against a backdrop of famous Hollywood faces, with each one in turn projected onto her face.