Posts for June 9th 2009

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix Turns Down Couture Client's Rescue Offer, Still Optimistic

>> While Christian Lacroix is hoping that his label can emerge out of administration with new ownership, he's already got one couture client who offered to bail him out.  He turned her down: “I prefer her as a client rather than chairwoman.”Lacroix says that his widely acclaimed Fall 2009 collection will probably not be produced, because the factory is among the house's creditors, and the Fall 2009 couture show is up in the air.  He is still sketching in hopes that something will come together, but there is no budget to use any outside suppliers like embroiderers and not even a photocopier in the office.

>> While Christian Lacroix is hoping that his label can emerge out of administration with new ownership, he's already got one couture client who offered to bail him out.  He turned her down: “I prefer her as a client rather than chairwoman.”

Lacroix says that his widely acclaimed Fall 2009 collection will probably not be produced, because the factory is among the house's creditors, and the Fall 2009 couture show is up in the air.  He is still sketching in hopes that something will come together, but there is no budget to use any outside suppliers like embroiderers and not even a photocopier in the office.

Lacroix blames part of the label's 35 percent drop in sales — which expedited the bankruptcy filing earlier this month — to cuts in materials and manufacturing: “If you decide to do something in the deluxe field, you have to go all the way.  Even the best factory can’t make beautiful clothes with cut-rate fabrics.”

As for the future of the company, he acknowledged that if the company is not sold, it might be reduced to a licensing operation with only a handful of employees. But he's staying optimistic: “I know that my work, my inspiration and my creativity is not minimal and not so easy to make, but we have the proof that with skill and cleverness and good partnerships, it’s possible . . . The best way to fight would be to do a beautiful collection."

Interview

>> INSIDER WIRE —As rumored, Fabien Baron is coming back into the Interview fold as editorial director, replacing former co-editorial director Glenn O'Brien.

>> INSIDER WIRE As rumored, Fabien Baron is coming back into the Interview fold as editorial director, replacing former co-editorial director Glenn O'Brien. Baron was originally fired in January and took creative director Karl Templer with him.  After he left, the logo revamp he did was replaced and Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag of M/M Paris were brought in as creative directors. Baron is said to be talking to top talent about coming back with him — M/M Paris do not appear to be currently working on the August 2009 issue and are expected to leave the magazine  — will he revert the logo as well? [WWD, FWD]

christopher kane

Christopher Kane Debuts Nuclear First Cruise Collection for 2010

>> Christopher Kane was just shooting the lookbook for his first ever pre-collection with Alla Kostromicheva last week, and now it's available for the looking.

>> Christopher Kane was just shooting the lookbook for his first ever pre-collection with Alla Kostromicheva last week, and now it's available for the looking. The sparkly chokers he had on set didn't make the final cut, but no matter — the dresses stand alone. Their mushroom cloud prints were derived from nuclear test images Christopher found on the UK Ministry of Defense's website: "I'm so fed up with florals . . .  I like the crazy-bright chemical colors [of the images]. The way they're sinister — but beautiful."  The dresses will sell, but the shoes aren't up for grabs: "We didn't have any shoes, so we cobbled them together ourselves with gaffer tape and whatnot in the studio."

CFDA

>> INSIDER WIRE —The 2009 CFDA Awards show is coming up next week, and in addition to short films of the Swarovski nominees being shown, COACD is hearing that there will be a mini fashion show.

>> INSIDER WIRE —The 2009 CFDA Awards show is coming up next week, and in addition to short films of the Swarovski nominees being shown, COACD is hearing that there will be a mini fashion show. As for which of the nominees are going to be honored, Refinery29 predicts Marc Jacobs will win Accessory Designer of the Year, Rodarte will take home Womenswear Designer of the Year, and Jason Wu will score the Swarovski Award for Womenswear. [COACD Twitter, Refinery29]

Chloë Sevigny

Stefano Pilati's Sustainable Yves Saint Laurent Collection Didn't Sustain In-Store for Long

>> Stefano Pilati has been in New York since the weekend, hanging out at the Mercer Hotel with Purple's Olivier Zahm, Chloe Sevigny, and Waris Ahluwalia, but last night he got down to business, hosting the launch of the Yves Saint Laurent sustainable "New Vintage" collection with Barneys.  All the bags, shoes, and dresses were cut from archive fabric left over from previous seasons, and Barneys fashion director Julie Gilhart reports that it went fast — only a few pieces left, and she grabbed one of the bags for herself.

>> Stefano Pilati has been in New York since the weekend, hanging out at the Mercer Hotel with Purple's Olivier Zahm, Chloe Sevigny, and Waris Ahluwalia, but last night he got down to business, hosting the launch of the Yves Saint Laurent sustainable "New Vintage" collection with Barneys.  All the bags, shoes, and dresses were cut from archive fabric left over from previous seasons, and Barneys fashion director Julie Gilhart reports that it went fast — only a few pieces left, and she grabbed one of the bags for herself.

Today, Pilati presented his Cruise 2010 collection to press and buyers — where Chanel Iman was apparently called out for Twittering while she modeled.

Burberry

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —As rumored, Emma Watson was photographed near Burberry's new London headquarters by Mario Testino for the brand's Fall 2009 campaign.  The campaign highlights the label's British heritage with a peek of the River Thames, which Christopher Bailey calls a "wonderfully historic part of London," in one ad, and reiterates the heritage with the choice of British actress Watson.  The decision to use Watson does, however, represent a shift in casting for the brand, from featuring models — in the past Eden Clark, Lily Donaldson, Agyness Deyn — to a celebrity.

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —As rumored, Emma Watson was photographed near Burberry's new London headquarters by Mario Testino for the brand's Fall 2009 campaign.  The campaign highlights the label's British heritage with a peek of the River Thames, which Christopher Bailey calls a "wonderfully historic part of London," in one ad, and reiterates the heritage with the choice of British actress Watson.  The decision to use Watson does, however, represent a shift in casting for the brand, from featuring models — in the past Eden Clark, Lily Donaldson, Agyness Deyn — to a celebrity. [Telegraph, The Cut]

Harper's Bazaar

Harper Bazaar's July 2009 Cover Caught Up in Tabloid-Comparison Controversy

>> The July 2009 cover of Harper's Bazaar has become quite the controversary.  The newstand cover features a paparazzi picture of Angelina Jolie, from a red carpet last December, pulled from a photo service, and there is no interview with the actress inside.  The subscriber's cover, on the other hand, is a portrait of Doutzen Kroes taken by Terry Richardson, with an accompanying editorial inside.

>> The July 2009 cover of Harper's Bazaar has become quite the controversary.  The newstand cover features a paparazzi picture of Angelina Jolie, from a red carpet last December, pulled from a photo service, and there is no interview with the actress inside.  The subscriber's cover, on the other hand, is a portrait of Doutzen Kroes taken by Terry Richardson, with an accompanying editorial inside.

Glenda Bailey writes in her editor's letter: "For a magazine, the best accessory is a beautiful woman on the cover. This month, we have two."  Her readers seem to disagree — the Angelina cover has caused an uproar. As Fashionista puts it: "Bazaar is meant to be one of our venerable American fashion magazines. And this reeks of tabloids more than fashion."  A chorus of comparisons to Grazia, InTouch Weekly, and US Weekly from various fashion outlets chime in.

It's an "obvious sales ploy" »

Topshop

>> INSIDER WIRE —Despite reports to the contrary, Emma Cook is not shuttering her label.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Despite reports to the contrary, Emma Cook is not shuttering her label. Instead of showing in February, she had "a really big, long, hard think" and "decided to focus on making my clothes more affordable from now on. I spent the season working out ways to halve my retail prices, working with new suppliers, things like that, and dropping the show." She aims to keep her dresses in the £200-300 range; Her spokesman told Grazia that Emma will be looking at her archive, re-issuing some key pieces, and continuing to collaborate with Topshop. [Independent UK, Grazia]

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan Keeps Expanding Under Puma's Wing, This Time With Signature Fall 2009 Campaign

>> Hussein Chalayan has yet to debut his first designs for PPR-owned Puma — they come out in the Fall — but he's definitely feeling the love from Puma's majority stake in his own company and the access to Gucci Group resources.  He said when his role as Puma creative director was first annouced in February 2008 that he hoped "this partnership will mean that my work will reach more people, both through designing for Puma and with the expansion of my own business," and it has — his collaboration with J.

>> Hussein Chalayan has yet to debut his first designs for PPR-owned Puma — they come out in the Fall — but he's definitely feeling the love from Puma's majority stake in his own company and the access to Gucci Group resources.  He said when his role as Puma creative director was first annouced in February 2008 that he hoped "this partnership will mean that my work will reach more people, both through designing for Puma and with the expansion of my own business," and it has — his collaboration with J. Brand comes out in the Fall, he's working on a new fragrance with Comme des Garcons, and what is reportedly his first ad campaign — for Fall 2009 — photographed by Amy Troost and featuring Tanya Dziahileva, Iekeliene Stange, Serafima Vakulenko, Ann Catherine Lacroix, just surfaced.

Interview

>> INSIDER WIRE —If editorial director Glenn O'Brien leaves Interview as rumored, Fabien Baron might be back to run the show.  While the magazine's owner Peter Brant is embroiled in a messy divorce, his son, Brant Publications' new president Ryan Brant, is said to be running the show and wants Baron, who was popular with advertisers, back.  Discussions between Baron and Brant have gone far enough that Baron has approached top talent about returning to Interview with him.

>> INSIDER WIRE —If editorial director Glenn O'Brien leaves Interview as rumored, Fabien Baron might be back to run the show.  While the magazine's owner Peter Brant is embroiled in a messy divorce, his son, Brant Publications' new president Ryan Brant, is said to be running the show and wants Baron, who was popular with advertisers, back.  Discussions between Baron and Brant have gone far enough that Baron has approached top talent about returning to Interview with him. [FWD]