Posts for June 5th 2009

CFDA Swarovski Nominees Pair with Editors and Stylist for Short Films
Harper's Bazaar

CFDA Swarovski Nominees Pair with Editors and Stylist for Short Films

>> All 21 designers nominated for the 2009 CFDA Awards have been photographed by Craig McDean for the CFDA Journal, but the nine who are Swarovski emerging designer nominees will also be featured in individual short films, along with an editor or stylist of their choice, to be shown at the June 15 ceremony.
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>> All 21 designers nominated for the 2009 CFDA Awards have been photographed by Craig McDean for the CFDA Journal, but the nine who are Swarovski emerging designer nominees will also be featured in individual short films, along with an editor or stylist of their choice, to be shown at the June 15 ceremony.

The shorts, directed by Michael Palmieri and still photographed by Jennifer Livingston, feature designers Thakoon Panichgul, Jason Wu (who partnered with T fashion director Anne Christensen, left), Alexander Wang, Justin Giunta (who picked Harper's Bazaar accessories director Ana Maria Pimentel), Alejandro Ingelmo, Albertus Swanepoel, Patrick Ervell (who shot with V fashion editor Jay Massacret), Tim Hamilton and Robert Geller.  The films also feature editors Anne Slowey, Brian Coats, Brian Molloy, Kate Lanphear, Camilla Nickerson and Melanie Ward.

Esteban Cortazar, Ungaro Expected to Part Ways
emanuel ungaro

Esteban Cortazar, Ungaro Expected to Part Ways

>> Ungaro has had a checkered past as far as designer retention goes, and it sounds like the tradition is carrying on.  Just a few days after rumors hit that creative director Esteban Cortazar was threatening to leave the company, several sources confirm to WWD that the house and designer have reached an impasse over marketing and advertising strategy and plan to part ways.CEO Mounir Moufarrige is keen to restart the label's provocative ad campaigns, which haven't been done for Ungaro womenswear for years, and is apparently pushing for a celebrity to "help wake up the house," WWD reports.  Ungaro has been talking with six or so candidates, including Lindsay Lohan — hence Tuesday's rumors that she was being considered as a creative consultant to the house.  However, those specific rumors have been disbanded: none of the celebrity candidates would have anything to do with design.
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>> Ungaro has had a checkered past as far as designer retention goes, and it sounds like the tradition is carrying on.  Just a few days after rumors hit that creative director Esteban Cortazar was threatening to leave the company, several sources confirm to WWD that the house and designer have reached an impasse over marketing and advertising strategy and plan to part ways.

CEO Mounir Moufarrige is keen to restart the label's provocative ad campaigns, which haven't been done for Ungaro womenswear for years, and is apparently pushing for a celebrity to "help wake up the house," WWD reports.  Ungaro has been talking with six or so candidates, including Lindsay Lohan — hence Tuesday's rumors that she was being considered as a creative consultant to the house.  However, those specific rumors have been disbanded: none of the celebrity candidates would have anything to do with design.

No potential successors to Cortazar have been mentioned, but Moufarrige is known for making unexpected choices; he replaced Karl Lagerfeld with Stella McCartney at Chloe in 1997, when she was 25.

edun

>> THE ZEITGEIST —Cathy Horyn just posted an insightful state of the union-type speech that she made a few nights ago, focusing on fashion and some of the economic challenges facing the industry.  Among the highlights: "'Green fashion' will become more and more important, and young consumers in particular will expect to see innovation and experimentation in this area .
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>> THE ZEITGEIST —Cathy Horyn just posted an insightful state of the union-type speech that she made a few nights ago, focusing on fashion and some of the economic challenges facing the industry.  Among the highlights: "'Green fashion' will become more and more important, and young consumers in particular will expect to see innovation and experimentation in this area . . . I am somewhat surprised that a big luxury group has not had the foresight to create a separate eco-brand of high-quality garments, with a casual yet sophisticated aesthetic. We’ve seen a number of niche labels, but not one that draws on the brand power and advertising reach of a luxury group." Perhaps that is precisely what LVMH has in mind for new investment Edun? [On the Runway]

Marc Jacobs Is In Venice, But Channels Eclectic Brazil for Cruise 2010
Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs Is In Venice, But Channels Eclectic Brazil for Cruise 2010

>> While Marc Jacobs is skipping around Venice, holding hands with fiance Lorenzo Martone and scoping out art, his mainline Cruise 2010 collection previewed yesterday, and it's a mishmash of what he's been up to the past few months.  His March trip to Brazil is in the flounchy skirts and colorful toucan prints and appliques, and the finale dress is a variation on the custom gold lame dress he made for Kate Moss to wear to the Costume Institute Gala last month.  On that train of thought, perhaps his current station in Venice will feed into his Spring 2010 collection?
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>> While Marc Jacobs is skipping around Venice, holding hands with fiance Lorenzo Martone and scoping out art, his mainline Cruise 2010 collection previewed yesterday, and it's a mishmash of what he's been up to the past few months.  His March trip to Brazil is in the flounchy skirts and colorful toucan prints and appliques, and the finale dress is a variation on the custom gold lame dress he made for Kate Moss to wear to the Costume Institute Gala last month.  On that train of thought, perhaps his current station in Venice will feed into his Spring 2010 collection?

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insider wire

>> INSIDER WIRE —Central St. Martins, the breeding ground of Gareth Pughs, Alexander McQueens, and Stella McCartneys to come, just had its BA graduate show.  Dazed Digital got the lowdown on the newest talents, including Marie Hill, the womenswear designer who took home the L'Oreal Professionnel prize.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Central St. Martins, the breeding ground of Gareth Pughs, Alexander McQueens, and Stella McCartneys to come, just had its BA graduate show.  Dazed Digital got the lowdown on the newest talents, including Marie Hill, the womenswear designer who took home the L'Oreal Professionnel prize. [Dazed Digital]

Anna Wintour Left Jason Wu's Show to Go Watch Roger Federer Play
Anna Wintour

Anna Wintour Left Jason Wu's Show to Go Watch Roger Federer Play

>> Yesterday, Anna Wintour arrived to take in Jason Wu's Cruise 2010 show at the Greenwich Hotel in New York, but took a phone call and left four minutes before the show started, leaving Wu's publicist confused.  A Vogue staffer told Fashion Week Daily: “She had a plane to catch.
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>> Yesterday, Anna Wintour arrived to take in Jason Wu's Cruise 2010 show at the Greenwich Hotel in New York, but took a phone call and left four minutes before the show started, leaving Wu's publicist confused.  A Vogue staffer told Fashion Week Daily: “She had a plane to catch. But she saw Jason’s entire collection earlier and really liked what she was looking at.”  Today, she showed up in Paris with boyfriend Shelby Bryan to watch her favorite athlete Roger Federer try to win the elusive French Open.  Maybe she'll be meeting Bee Shaffer, who was in Venice yesterday, at some point?

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Versace

>> INSIDER WIRE —Two houses are experiencing tumultuous times: As expected, Versace CEO Giancarlo Di Risio stepped down today and will stay on temporarily as the company transitions; no successor has been named.  And Aquascutum geared up for layoffs yesterday in the aftermath of former CEO Kim Winser's unexpected resignation.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Two houses are experiencing tumultuous times: As expected, Versace CEO Giancarlo Di Risio stepped down today and will stay on temporarily as the company transitions; no successor has been named.  And Aquascutum geared up for layoffs yesterday in the aftermath of former CEO Kim Winser's unexpected resignation. [WWD, Times UK]

Venice Biennale Overflowing with Fashion Figures and Their Families
Marc Jacobs

Venice Biennale Overflowing with Fashion Figures and Their Families

>> Where art goes, fashion is soon to follow, and with the contemporary arts Biennale going on in Venice right now, there are plenty of designers, editors, and even models in town.  On Wednesday, Olympia Scarry’s installation brought out Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue Russia's Aliona Doletskaya, and POP's Dasha Zhukova, as well as Justin Portman and Natalia Vodianova, the latter whose face was reflected in a luminated, aged sketch on display called Dorian Gray, by artist Dasha Fursey.
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>> Where art goes, fashion is soon to follow, and with the contemporary arts Biennale going on in Venice right now, there are plenty of designers, editors, and even models in town.  On Wednesday, Olympia Scarry’s installation brought out Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue Russia's Aliona Doletskaya, and POP's Dasha Zhukova, as well as Justin Portman and Natalia Vodianova, the latter whose face was reflected in a luminated, aged sketch on display called Dorian Gray, by artist Dasha Fursey.

Naomi Campbell and boyfriend Vladislav Doronin stopped by a lunch for the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art, and popped up again yesterday at the opening of Francois Pinault's new museum, the Punta della Dogana. Stella McCartney was there with husband Alasdhair Willis to support her financier in his new endeavor, as were Franca Sozzani and Marc Jacobs, always the fan of contemporary art, who apparently kept exclaiming, "This place rocks."

Meanwhile, down the river, Angela Missoni held her annual party on boyfriend Bruno Ragazzi's yacht.  It was quite the family and friends affair: Angela's daughters Margherita and Teresa, plus son Francesco were all mingling, Franca Sozzani brought son Francesco Carrozzini, and Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld arrived with Carine Roitfeld, who neglected to follow the rest in taking her lace-up shoes off: "It would just take too long to undo them." Bee Shaffer was sans Anna Wintour, but Jefferson Hack brought fiancee Anouck Lepere.

Even those who aren't in Venice in person are there in spirit — Mario Testino sent one of his art consultants to scout the exhibition.

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Marc Jacobs Resort 2010
Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs Resort 2010

Modeled by Jamie Bochert among others, Marc Jacobs' Resort 2010 collection showed off the designer's skill with what has become a major trend in 2009: mixing prints and textures ad infinitum.
by coutorture

Modeled by Jamie Bochert among others, Marc Jacobs' Resort 2010 collection showed off the designer's skill with what has become a major trend in 2009: mixing prints and textures ad infinitum. Jacobs showed salable little dresses, cropped trousers and retro swimwear all of which should fold into his equally bright Fall 2009 collection seamlessly. Check out a few of our favorite looks from the 41-look collection below. 

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