>> INSIDER WIRE —Christian Lacroix filed for bankruptcy in a Paris court last week, has been placed in administration for six months. A Lacroix spokeswoman said the company is undergoing a "period of observation and investigation," and that has yet to be decided if and how Lacroix — who has been designing for free for months — will show during couture week at the beginning of July. [WWD]
Posts for June 3rd 2009
>> Resort season is well under way — Calvin Klein and Diane von Furstenberg are among the brands showing today alone. Every year, designers reiterate how crucial the resort season can be, and every year, there's more media attention placed on collections that pop up at this time. But all that increasing media coverage could endanger precisely why resort does so well — the collections typically have an element of anonymity, as Vogue's Mark Holgate explains:
The clothes tend to be shown in a small, discreet way, so they’re not overexposed; the look tends to trans-seasonal in the fabric and color choices; and, typically, what’s shown is on sale for longer than those collections presented during Fashion Week. In short: They’re the kind of pieces that you’ll tend to wear and wear and wear because they manage to be both directional and somewhat anonymous.
Cathy Horyn made note this morning of the increase in attention, when she overheard one editor comment at Calvin Klein: “Oh, I thought this was going to be a small presentation."
>> INSIDER WIRE —The introduction from Steven Miesel's new book, Three Hundred and Seventeen & Counting, which showcases 317 of his sequential Vogue Italia covers, serves up a dig at Vogue: "The freedom that Steven Meisel enjoys on Italian Vogue is exceptional, as is the length of the collaboration and its systematic nature, both unprecedented in the field. A quick look at the covers of US Vogue created by Meisel is enough to convince: one sees the same girls but there is no hint of a story nor shadow of a meaning." [The Imagist]
This year, Michael Kors showed a more urban Resort collection than is typical of his jet-set aesthetic. Office appropriate dresses and suits with strong shoulders that were cinched with obi belts made the strongest statement while there were calmer, earthier elements of the collection to balance things out. Swimsuits and caftans were not discounted--just in case his jet-set woman does make it out of the city for a weekend.
We've been smitten with Catherine Holstein since she first landed on the Fashion Week circuit three seasons ago. Her easy, sophisticated clothing has made her one to watch and her shows--packed with editors, models and industry folk--are a sure testament to that fact. This week, we caught up with Holstein for quick interview...
What was the inspiration behind the Fall 2009 collection? The inspiration behind the fall collection was "vagabond, creature of the night." The idea of just passing through town to town with no home or destination, just a suitcase. I suppose I'm kind of a loner so it felt natural.
This Fall you lowered your price point slightly. Can you tell us what led you to make that decision and whether your line will stay within that range? I offered some items for a lower price than last season such as t-shirts and flannels. We wanted to branch out to a larger demographic. We will continue to offer these pieces (and hopefully more!) every season. Our main goal is to price 90% of the collection under $1000 retail, which is proving to be hard for a small designer, but we are finding ways.
What is a typical work day like for you? A typical work day consists of waking up at 8 o'clock, in the office by 9:30. Once I am in the office its usually answering emails and phone calls, resolving with some sort of crisis (I have gotten really used to that!), working on my boards, and dealing with a severe amount of anxiety. I usually leave around 6:30 on a slow day in the middle of the season. Around show time, it can go all night.
Any clues on what we can expect to see this Spring 2010? Easy, breezy everyday wear for women. Clean, yet eclectic. Lots of neutrals with hints of color. I love spring, it's my favorite for design. I wear spring pieces all year round. A pair of black tights and some cashmere can make anything go into winter, so I'm more in touch with that season. Fall can be a bit confusing for me.
Where do you see your brand going in the next few years? I would really like to evolve into a brand that offers an array of classic tailored and drapy pieces for women. I guess what I mean is I would like to be the go-to designer for sophisticated, yet playful garments that can be implemented into anyone's wardrobe. My overall goal is for my collection to be inviting. So we shall certainly see what happens...(it's been a pretty crazy ride so far!)
For Resort Miuccia Prada showed off her own special brand of beach wear, complete with buttoned-up blouses and mixed prints. Upbeat compared to those heavy wader boots and forties coats from Fall 2009, Resort 2010 for Prada is light and carefree. Fans of Prada's Spring 2009 collection will especially love this midseason collection--that ribbon-tied footwear motif is revisited.
Pam Hogg's press office told beloved fashion blogger Susie Bubble to take down photos of herself in one of Hogg's jumpsuits.
Miley Cyrus and Max Azria are teaming up to create a junior line, called Miley Cyrus and Max Azria, for Wal-Mart.
Karl Lagerfeld has photographed Baptiste Giabiconi in women's clothes three times now.