Photos courtesy of Cynthia Rowley press office.
Posts for June 12th 2009
>> INSIDER WIRE —Alber Elbaz loves his TV, but Stefano Pilati takes in a concert when he gets a break — he recently saw PJ Harvey while in New York. And although he says he's "been working nonstop. Normally the summer is more relaxed, but this one, no way. I didn't stop one day," when he does get a chance for a longer break, he likes to "disappear" to Hawaii or Idaho to ski: "You know, I can't really stop thinking about collections, but at least I'm not under so much pressure." [Purple Diary, Hint]
>> Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have done viral online video campaigns and asked Lauren Hutton to model The Row for a lookbook, but for their Cruise/Pre-Spring 2010 collection, they and brand consultant (and T staffer) Alex Hawgood asked for a strong black woman. Alek Wek's niece, Ataui Deng, was cast and photographed in the label's newest luxury basics by Daniel King.
>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Mango seems to have a thing for offspring — Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld is being replaced as face of the brand by Jeremy Irons's son Max, who was photographed by Franca Sozzani's son Francesco Carrozzini (left) in a Barcelona studio against a white backdrop. Irons joins Scarlett Johansson, who is the Fall 2009 women's face for Mango. [WWD]
>> Phoebe Philo introduced her first collection at Celine — for Cruise 2010 — yesterday, and it was all secrecy: no pictures were allowed at the preview. Philo, dressed in olive fatigues, a black leather jacket and a putty silk blouse, Cathy Horyn reports, chatted with guests in the large raw space where her designs were being on racks with informal modeling: "It was a smart way to introduce the collection — the isolated debut rather than the big Paris blowout."
Style.com deemed the collection "spot-on" yesterday, and today, more outlets have had a chance to weigh in. From Vogue: "Was it any good? Oh, yeah, and then some . . . It’s what Philo did so well at Chloé — a look that’s just cool, plain and simple, and which every girl is going to go crazy for." WWD was less forthcoming with an opinion, but still seemed to approve: "Gone are the girly frills and eyelets in favor of a smart, far more austere and grown-up look rooted in classics."
For many designers, Fall 2009 was all about getting back to basics and sending out salable, classic clothing. As a result, the crisp white jacket made more than a few appearances. Perfect with jeans or a little cocktail dress, a white jacket evokes a clean, sophisticated look that feels especially relevant right now. Check out ten examples from ten different designers and brands in the gallery below.
For cruise, Hannah MacGibbon channeled "forties-flavored sportswear — seen through the prism of the Seventies". MacGibbon is all about loose, retro clothing and this midseason offering is nothing new in that regard. Styled together, the collection might look a bit too loose or too retro but Chloé's devoted fans know how to style these individual pieces so that they stand out. That said, we can't wait to see what MacGibbon cooks up for Spring 2010.
>> INSIDER WIRE —Despite rumors otherwise, it sounds like Alber Elbaz is happily situated at Lanvin for the long haul: the self-professed Project Runway fan created a new tailoring capsule collection for Lanvin's Cruise 2010 collection inspired by Glenn Close's power suits in Damages. The looks will be produced in the same Italian factories as Lanvin's menswear and mark Elbaz's expansion into a number of capsule collections for next season, including ranges of jersey, long dresses, bridal gowns, and dip-dyed cotton sportswear, as well as his denim line with Acne. [WWD]
>> The 2009 CFDA Awards are on Monday — the afterparties are planned, various outlets are hedging their bets on the winners, and to the disappointment of many, Board of Director’s Special Tribute honoree Michelle Obama will not be in attendance — fashion has been foiled once again — her cultural ambassador Bonnie McElveen-Hunter will receive the award in her stead.
But the rumor about the mini fashion show at the awards ceremony is true: As a preview of New York Fashion Week's move to Lincoln Center next year, a runway presentation of Lifetime Achievement honoree Anna Sui, plus the work of other womenswear nominees, will take place on the Center's Alice Tully Hall stage. According to Fashion Week Daily, "Don’t expect anything less than stellar models to strut their stuff on stage, nearly every big name is already booked for the mini-shows."