>> INSIDER WIRE —Is Nicholas Ghesquiere feeling the pinch of Balmania? Until this season when he switched to Hotel Crillon, he always showed in the Balenciaga studio — some suggested the move was prompted by Balmain's move to the Ritz. His decision to go '80s (albeit '80s Yves Saint Laurent) for Fall 2009 has some responding, "Looks like the Balmain has made all the French directionals nervous, no?" And perhaps the icing on the cake, his declaration backstage that “High tech is over. And the clubbing," which could be construed as a dig at Balmain's club-centric aesthetic . . . no wonder if Nicolas is sweating a bit, considering all the hoopla at Balmain today.
Posts for March 5th 2009
>> Rick Owens traded in his Spring 2009 nuns for Fall 2009 swans, with feather headbands and ice queen pastels intermixed into his usual black palette. Apparently, a good number of the models showed up backstage — including Sasha Pivovarova, who teasingly complained about her jacket causing people to touch her — wearing at least one Rick piece, a testament to his fashion following; another testament: Anna Wintour chose his show as the last to which 60 Minutes's Morley Safer would accompany her. But when you've got jackets and boots like these, what do you expect?
>> THE MODELIZER — Balenciaga broke a couple of new faces today — Johanna Kneppers and Gwen Loos — so where's 18-year-old Russian model Ranya Mordanova's big Paris debut happening? Models.com promises she's "a stealth candidate poised for a major breakthrough" and "has had several clients circling here with avid interest." We hear Givenchy's doing exclusives this season to back up its new model-making credibility, but is she the right look? [Of the Minute]
>> Olivier Theyskens's position at Nina Ricci is confusing, to say the least — it's generally viewed that the Fall 2009 collection is his last for the brand, and supposedly Peter Copping is already lined up to succeed him when his contract runs out in October, but the company declines to comment. Now, rumors are going around that management actually already fired Olivier, but he won't leave — he does have the option to do one more collection for the brand, so maybe he's hoping to change management's mind?
Needless to say, Olivier admitted to reporters that today's show was an emotional one, and he took a long bow at the end of the show to a standing ovation. Gone was the Olivier who shows in the Tuileries Gardens and thrives on romantic gowns; instead, he sent out pieces with Mugler-inspired shoulders and a harder edge in a warehouse setting. And let's not forget the insane shoes — stilt-like — some say 8-inch, some say 10-inch, platforms with either no heels or conventional stilettos dangling in the air — close-up here. Surprisingly, there were no falls, only a couple of wobbles. All in all, a return to Olivier's fetishistic roots — the sheer pieces were most successful — but will it be enough?
Gareth Pugh's Fall 2009 range was shown in video format but a few people got the proper showroom treatment complete with runway simulation and everything. After all, no matter how praised is the video, a sober look at the clothes is requisite. Pugh worked with that jarring pin motif, which we first saw in his men's show, and also experimented with geometric shapes on varying scales. One morsel of wisdom you can take away from this collection: thigh high boots are a sure thing.
>> THE MODELIZER —The dollfaces have been moving on — Lily Cole is studying at Cambridge, Gemma Ward is far from on-the-radar — and now Lisa Cant has joined them in leaving the runways: she enrolled in Columbia, where she's listed as doing General Studies, but is thinking of focusing on Economics. Apparently, Caroline Trentini is also taking her time off from the runways to study — for her GED. But she's not going anywhere — there's that rumored Vogue cover, and her agent says she has "An exclusive appearance somewhere VERY SOON which she is very excited about . . ." Maybe she's making it to the runways after all? [Style File, Modelinia]
On March 18th, Cheap Monday will be landing at Inven.tory in New York to sell off fifty limited and numbered pairs of jeans as part of their custom jeans tour. The patched/ripped/dyed jeans retail for just $70 each, so it comes as no surprise to learn that the batch assigned to each leg of the tour--in Stockholm, Copenhagen, Berlin, and London--were all but sold out by the time the second case of beer was finished. See Cheap Monday's photo diary below and, for more, check out the brand's Fall 09 collection where these denim incarnations first made an appearance.