>> Budget cuts brought fewer European retailers to New York Fashion Week and fewer US retailers to London Fashion Week — Julie Gilhart of Barneys, for one — so instead, designers are meeting them at the one Fashion Week they all can't miss: Paris.

Those from New York heading across the seas to meet with potential buyers and hopefully secure sales are Brian Reyes, Alexander Wang, and Victoria Bartlett of VPL, who are all sharing a space, plus Elise Overland, Jason Wu, Erin Fetherston, and Justin Giunta of Subversive Jewelry.  Diane von Furstenberg and Philip Crangi have already been spotted together at Tuileries, but The Ritz Paris is said to be the unofficial headquarters of retailer-designer-meet-and-greet activity.

The British Fashion Council is also investing itself in a trip to Paris — starting Friday, designers such as House of Holland, Osman Yousefzada, Felder Felder and Louise Gray will reside at the JTM Gallery on Rue de Richelieu, where international fashion press and buyers will have a second chance to peruse the collections; the hope, of course, is to increase investment in London designers.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Despite Interview going under a full revamp from Fabien Baron's design for its May 2009 issue under the care of new creative directors M/M Paris, all seems amicable between the two — Purple's Olivier Zahm snapped Baron wishing half of M/M Paris, Michael Amzalag, luck backstage at Prada. [Purple Diary]

>> Frida Giannini's runway-clothes-as-merchandise concept for Gucci may be selling well, but it's still not sitting well with critics.  Last season, her collection was likened to Zara, and this season her Fall 2009 collection earned another mall-brand comparison: Bebe.

Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes, neither of whom are afraid to be blunt, seemed indifferent to criticizing the collection — both just focused on Frida's decision to channel sex.  But Christina Binkley of The Wall Street Journal got more pointed, going so far to ask "Who is the Gucci woman?": "[Frida] seems to develop a startling new personality each season, leaving last season’s clothes lost in relation to the new collection. Last season, she was globetrotting with flower children. This season, she’s shaking it in sequined leggings and a sparkling tunic at Studio 54."

"Gucci continues to look like Bebe with a bigger budget" »

• In addition to Calvin Klein in New York, Prada in Milan, and Balenciaga in Paris, Givenchy has emerged as a fourth major-model-making platform due to the "increasing power of that show and campaign in giving new girls maximum visibility" [The Imagist]


• Thursday's Nina Ricci show "is almost universally agreed to be designer Olivier Theyskens's last collection" for the brand, and with the recent clash of his $15,000 gowns versus the label's commercial branding, will he give in and make retailers happy or go with his heart? [FWD]


• Hotly anticipated, Rose Cordero has only appeared at Burberry so far, but COACD seems to know something we don't . . . [COACD]


• Rochas is relaunching with Marco Zanini in charge; An insider who attended a preview last week "showed much enthusiasm for the line" [FWD]


• Is Balmain the new Balenciaga?  It's Balmania out there: Christophe Decarnin's Spring 2009 glitzy '80s moment permeated Fall 2009 collections from New York to Milan, and his $1,500 jeans are still flying off the shelves, even in this economy [FWD]

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>> Even though POP magazine doesn't officially relaunch until September, it's a hot topic these days, especially with the supposed drama of Dasha Zhukova's appointment as the new editor-in-chief and Daphne Guinness's worry over being announced as part of the editorial board.  Today, Daphne blogged on the matter, calling the reports "so FUNNY . . . . It was flattering but not true I am afraid.  A complete misunderstanding!"

We caught up with POP's editorial director Ashley Heath this morning — he confirms that Daphne has asked not to be on the editorial board, and is instead "working on a very interesting and exciting special project for us."  Also on the plate for discussion — POP's logo: to change or not to change, first cover clues, and when the freelance fashion and creative teams will be announced.

What do you think about the reception Dasha's appointment is receiving in Milan?

"The reception from the fashion industry towards Dasha has been universally positive. As soon as she talks to anyone the fact that she is extremely intelligent, cultured, driven and positive becomes obvious. Dasha has a very strong sense of style and a strong point of view on the modern world and on magazines. She is incredible in every meeting. The advertisers are thrilled about her appointment, but then they realise an intelligent international perspective is key now. But I've no idea how the rest of the magazine media responded to the announcement. Editors and journalists aren't exactly known for their universal goodwill are they? But the front row figures I care about all grabbed me and said, 'Wow, this is really interesting, this is actually an exciting prospect.'"

Daphne's "indicated that being a part of the editorial board is not a good idea" »

Eubie Panache celebrated and embraced the strong shoulder trend for Fall 2009.

The Shoptometrist dreamt of outdoor market dresses and other chic bohemian looks.  

A Wee Bit Skint gave rave reviews to Karl Lagerfeld's Fall 2009 collection for Fendi. 

That's Chic became one of the celebrated It-Girls in the Quiksilver campaign! 

>> INSIDER WIRE — Just as Dolce & Gabbana streamed their D&G and Dolce & Gabbana shows live on the internet, Nick Knight's SHOWstudio promises that at 11 EST tomorrow, they'll be streaming Gareth Pugh's show live.  Also part of the deal?  An exclusive video interview with Gareth about the Fall 2009 collection, which hopefully will go up before the show . . . [SHOWStudio]