Posts for March 12th 2009

A Hint of Azzedine Alaia Fall 2009
azzedine alaia

A Hint of Azzedine Alaia Fall 2009

>> Despite the prevailing '80s mood of the season, at his private show today, Azzedine Alaia only looked forward: "I don't believe in looking back — I don't want to revisit the 1980s."
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>> Despite the prevailing '80s mood of the season, at his private show today, Azzedine Alaia only looked forward: "I don't believe in looking back — I don't want to revisit the 1980s." Both Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horyn were present for the unveiling, the former describing:

"Signature knits and leathers, woven into bouncy skirts that might have open-work decoration or intricate embellishment. Cut-out feather effects were hand-painted with streaks of white, while white cotton blouses also freshened up the tough side of black leather.  Coats cinched at the waist and small leather jackets, whether in classy crocodile or pony skin treated to look like miniature leopard spots. The same pattern appeared on the knitted dress, form-fitting but kicking out at the hem."

And then there was velvet »

the wall street journal

>> INSIDER WIRE —The Wall Street Journal demolished its fashion bureau just before New York Fashion Week last month, letting go a few contributors along the way, including Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan, who largely wrote the paper's fashion blog, Heard on the Runway.  It's disappointing, but not really surprising, then to hear that after today, which marked the end of Paris Fashion Week, the blog will likely go dark; blog posts have been dwindling for the past month, but we're sorry to see it go, the posts that were done made it a must-read.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —The Wall Street Journal demolished its fashion bureau just before New York Fashion Week last month, letting go a few contributors along the way, including Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan, who largely wrote the paper's fashion blog, Heard on the Runway.  It's disappointing, but not really surprising, then to hear that after today, which marked the end of Paris Fashion Week, the blog will likely go dark; blog posts have been dwindling for the past month, but we're sorry to see it go, the posts that were done made it a must-read. [The Cut]

RM by Roland Mouret Fall 2009: "The Work of a Local Dressmaker"
Roland Mouret

RM by Roland Mouret Fall 2009: "The Work of a Local Dressmaker"

>> For the first time since launching his RM line, Roland Mouret showed during Paris Fashion Week; until now, he's debuted collections during couture season.  It was perfect time to make the move, considering that his trademark tailored origami dresses are right on par with the sober chic mood of many other designers for Fall 2009 — "quietly seductive," as Cathy Horyn described them.
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RM by Roland Mouret Fall 2009: "The Work of a Local Dressmaker"

>> For the first time since launching his RM line, Roland Mouret showed during Paris Fashion Week; until now, he's debuted collections during couture season.  It was perfect time to make the move, considering that his trademark tailored origami dresses are right on par with the sober chic mood of many other designers for Fall 2009 — "quietly seductive," as Cathy Horyn described them. "Almost the work of a local dressmaker. That’s not a criticism."  Another first for the designer: knitwear, embossed like crocodile, above a skirt or over leggings. The venue was warm, causing guests to fan themselves with programs and invites, but these are just the type of dresses that buyers are looking for come Fall, so a little discomfort was surely worth it.
*image: source

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Kate Moss

>> INSIDER WIRE — Do Kate Moss and Karl Lagerfeld have something behind-the-scenes going on?  Kate only hit up the Chanel show, the Chanel party, and the Fendi party out of all the Fashion Week events while in town — and she even went shopping yesterday at Fendi.  Maybe it's just one big coincidence, but it is the beginning of campaign season — Tao Okamoto already landed Akris Fall 2009 — is Kate sitting for one of Karl's Fall 2009 campaigns?  Or did they just work out an appearance contract?
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>> INSIDER WIRE — Do Kate Moss and Karl Lagerfeld have something behind-the-scenes going on?  Kate only hit up the Chanel show, the Chanel party, and the Fendi party out of all the Fashion Week events while in town — and she even went shopping yesterday at Fendi.  Maybe it's just one big coincidence, but it is the beginning of campaign season — Tao Okamoto already landed Akris Fall 2009 — is Kate sitting for one of Karl's Fall 2009 campaigns?  Or did they just work out an appearance contract?

*image: bauer-griffin online

Coutorture Community Must Reads 03/12/09
Christian Louboutin

Coutorture Community Must Reads 03/12/09

Glowing Doll posted her favorite detail from the Jean Charles de Castelbajac runway show... O.M.O.
by coutorture

Glowing Doll posted her favorite detail from the Jean Charles de Castelbajac runway show...

O.M.O. Writes voted for the colored metallic trend that was highlighted in this month's V Magazine. 

Platinum Blonde Life gave a shoutout to a pop star's new video which features Louboutin for 3.1 platforms.  

Speaking of ruffles on shoes, ShinyStyle has a love it or hate it moment with a flat pair by Omelle. 

Miu Miu Fall 2009: A Sultry Riff on the Bourgeois
Miu Miu

Miu Miu Fall 2009: A Sultry Riff on the Bourgeois

>> Miuccia Prada closed out the Fall 2009 runway season with a Miu Miu show about "playing with the bourgeoisie.” Necklines plunged to reveal nude bras, fur sashes draped across the chest and covered ankle straps, bare flesh shimmered, and socks were heavily sequined.  The collection seemed more grown up than Miu Miu's recent forays into harlequinism or scuba gear, with its tapestry patterns, but perhaps most striking were the half-coats, with undone buttons or cutout backs.
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>> Miuccia Prada closed out the Fall 2009 runway season with a Miu Miu show about "playing with the bourgeoisie.” Necklines plunged to reveal nude bras, fur sashes draped across the chest and covered ankle straps, bare flesh shimmered, and socks were heavily sequined.  The collection seemed more grown up than Miu Miu's recent forays into harlequinism or scuba gear, with its tapestry patterns, but perhaps most striking were the half-coats, with undone buttons or cutout backs.
*image: source

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Celine

>> INSIDER WIRE —First it was Fall 2009, then Spring 2010, and now it's being reported that Resort 2010 will be Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine.  Meanwhile, the house's Fall 2009 collection, done by an in-house design team, will be presented to editors next week.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —First it was Fall 2009, then Spring 2010, and now it's being reported that Resort 2010 will be Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine.  Meanwhile, the house's Fall 2009 collection, done by an in-house design team, will be presented to editors next week. [FWD]

*image: source

Meanwhile In Current Season: Stella McCartney And A Topshop Lookalike
Layout

Meanwhile In Current Season: Stella McCartney And A Topshop Lookalike

Seems Topshop has jumped on the paneled body con bandwagon with a series of skirts that remind us of the Stella McCartney Spring 2009 rendering.
by coutorture

Seems Topshop has jumped on the paneled body con bandwagon with a series of skirts that remind us of the Stella McCartney Spring 2009 rendering. Surely there's a quality difference here but we're happy that chicsters shopping at both price points can enjoy the look. On another note, seeing the color discrepancy between runway and Net-a-Porter reminds us--no matter how much we love e-commerce--that color can't be trusted.

Louis Vuitton Fall 2009: Bunny Ears, Bunching, and Boots
Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall 2009: Bunny Ears, Bunching, and Boots

>> Marc Jacobs's signature collection started a minute early, and Louis Vuitton started just seven minutes late — which according to the way most fashion shows run, is still early, causing loads of people to miss the beginning — Suzy Menkes climbed over the runway after the first model walked out — and many to be locked out.  Lucky for them, the show was staged in a clear tent in a Louvre courtyard, so late editors and passersby could watch the show.
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>> Marc Jacobs's signature collection started a minute early, and Louis Vuitton started just seven minutes late — which according to the way most fashion shows run, is still early, causing loads of people to miss the beginning — Suzy Menkes climbed over the runway after the first model walked out — and many to be locked out.  Lucky for them, the show was staged in a clear tent in a Louvre courtyard, so late editors and passersby could watch the show.

Bunny ears topped heads — show stylist Katie Grand was inspired by "a black doe rabbit in the pet shop on the corner" — necklaces were modeled after paper garlands, ruching was everywhere, and Rose Cordero finally made a Paris runway appearance.  Marc Jacobs said he was inspired by "all the great, elegant Parisian women, like Loulou de la Falaise," and the LVMH-Gareth Pugh connection continues: Pugh sat front row, two seats away from Bernard Arnault, still denying the Dior Homme rumors.
*image: source

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