Posts for February 28th 2009

Maier Works the Grace Kelly Angle for Bottega Veneta Fall 2009
Bottega Veneta

Maier Works the Grace Kelly Angle for Bottega Veneta Fall 2009

>> Tomas Maier is ever working the understated, the investment dress angle at Bottega Veneta — and the Grace Kelly twist he took for Fall 2009 seems so right.  The gauzy goddess gowns with rectangle-shaped tiers in the skirt were full-on glamour of the best kind; sure to be snapped up for a red-carpet appearance here, an editorial there.  But even the simple chocolate nappa leather or mauve velvet strapless dresses resounded — warm tones in a season full of cold blacks and grays.
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Maier Works the Grace Kelly Angle for Bottega Veneta Fall 2009

>> Tomas Maier is ever working the understated, the investment dress angle at Bottega Veneta — and the Grace Kelly twist he took for Fall 2009 seems so right.  The gauzy goddess gowns with rectangle-shaped tiers in the skirt were full-on glamour of the best kind; sure to be snapped up for a red-carpet appearance here, an editorial there.  But even the simple chocolate nappa leather or mauve velvet strapless dresses resounded — warm tones in a season full of cold blacks and grays. Resisting full-on ladylike, Maier slipped in "sly fetishistic" underwires and seams cupping the breasts into his dresses, and first-hand viewers called the collection "breathtaking" and "dreamy."  The only lack of beauty shown?  Apparently the pit photographers screamed at the models in Italian, and the "front row was appalled."
*image: source

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Valentino Garavani

>> INSIDER WIRE —No one ever said Valentino was easy to work with, but former Valentino CEO Matteo Marzotto, who hosted a press conference in Milan today for his new Vionnet acquisition, basically confirmed it.  "For the first time in my life I’m working with somebody who’s down to earth [newly-hired Vionnet designer Rodolfo Paglialunga].
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>> INSIDER WIRE —No one ever said Valentino was easy to work with, but former Valentino CEO Matteo Marzotto, who hosted a press conference in Milan today for his new Vionnet acquisition, basically confirmed it.  "For the first time in my life I’m working with somebody who’s down to earth [newly-hired Vionnet designer Rodolfo Paglialunga]. As you can imagine — and I loved it very much — but I’ve been working with superstars. They can be difficult." [Heard on the Runway]

Dundas's Debut Fall 2009 Pucci Collection Minimizes Prints
Emilio Pucci

Dundas's Debut Fall 2009 Pucci Collection Minimizes Prints

>> Matthew Williamson's gone from Pucci, and he seems to have taken the brand's bright, kaleidoscopic prints with him.  Peter Dundas is in the house, and his interpretation of the Pucci heritage for Fall 2009 involves darker, moodier colors with a rock and roll vibe; the slit-up-to-there strapless gowns and super-minidresses are drawing Balmain comparisons from a number of sources.  But critics — although some are unsure about the lack of prints — seem ready to give Dundas a chance: management did want a new, modern image, after all.  WWD encouraged Dundas's movement beyond the print heritage: "The fact is that [Pucci] has to."  The Moment agreed that the collection felt "relevent to the times and the house," as did Cathy Horyn: " If Dundas can develop 'the product,' as retailers say, he may just have something at Pucci."*image: source
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>> Matthew Williamson's gone from Pucci, and he seems to have taken the brand's bright, kaleidoscopic prints with him.  Peter Dundas is in the house, and his interpretation of the Pucci heritage for Fall 2009 involves darker, moodier colors with a rock and roll vibe; the slit-up-to-there strapless gowns and super-minidresses are drawing Balmain comparisons from a number of sources.  But critics — although some are unsure about the lack of prints — seem ready to give Dundas a chance: management did want a new, modern image, after all.  WWD encouraged Dundas's movement beyond the print heritage: "The fact is that [Pucci] has to."  The Moment agreed that the collection felt "relevent to the times and the house," as did Cathy Horyn: " If Dundas can develop 'the product,' as retailers say, he may just have something at Pucci."
*image: source

View 22 Photos
ellen von unwerth

>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS —The portfolio — and some outtakes — Ellen von Unwerth photographed in her makeshift studio backstage at couture last month is finally up.  Moments like Tanya Dziahileva in Armani Prive standing next to Anna Piaggi or a fish face-pink braided topknot combination at Lacroix were captured just seconds before the models were whisked off by handlers, to be stripped down and taken to their next show.
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>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS —The portfolio — and some outtakes — Ellen von Unwerth photographed in her makeshift studio backstage at couture last month is finally up.  Moments like Tanya Dziahileva in Armani Prive standing next to Anna Piaggi or a fish face-pink braided topknot combination at Lacroix were captured just seconds before the models were whisked off by handlers, to be stripped down and taken to their next show. [The Moment, NYT]

Tom Ford Expanding into Womenswear with Facchinetti?
Tom Ford

Tom Ford Expanding into Womenswear with Facchinetti?

>> Tom Ford pulled a Karl Lagerfeld for Spring 2009, taking over shooting his brand's ads from Terry Richardson.  Some shots featured Karen Elson sporting his eyewear, prompting a new round of that ever-present question — is Tom Ford doing womenswear?  It did used to be his forte, after all.Turns out there is hope — circulating Milan Fashion Week is the rumor that Alessandra Facchinetti, who was unceremoniously dumped by Valentino last season, is currently working on Ford's nascent womenswear line.  Most appropriate, since Facchinetti was top womenswear designer under Ford at Gucci, before taking over when he left that brand.*image: source
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>> Tom Ford pulled a Karl Lagerfeld for Spring 2009, taking over shooting his brand's ads from Terry Richardson.  Some shots featured Karen Elson sporting his eyewear, prompting a new round of that ever-present question — is Tom Ford doing womenswear?  It did used to be his forte, after all.

Turns out there is hope — circulating Milan Fashion Week is the rumor that Alessandra Facchinetti, who was unceremoniously dumped by Valentino last season, is currently working on Ford's nascent womenswear line.  Most appropriate, since Facchinetti was top womenswear designer under Ford at Gucci, before taking over when he left that brand.
*image: source