>> INSIDER WIRE — Pre-Fall collections are widely recognized as an incubator for a designer to try out ideas before use in a main collection, but for his Fall 2009 Burberry collection, Christopher Bailey seems to have more than just evolved ideas from his Pre-Fall collection. Rather, he appears to have re-used or only made slight adjustments to Pre-Fall looks before sending them down the Fall 2009 runway — prints, shapes, and silhouettes on a number of looks appear the same in both collections. [ONTD_FF]
Posts for February 27th 2009
>> Raf Simons had a tough act to follow after his stunning fringe-filled Spring 2009 Jil Sander collection, but he pulled it off. The first half of the Fall 2009 show was filled with simple dresses, tailored coats, trousers, and flats in a predominantly neutral palette, and then a flash of colored strobe lights came on and the real experimentation began. As Cathy Horyn put it, Raf "tried to defy gravity" — stunning curvilinear shapes poked out from the hip of a dress or snaked around the neck of a coat; a contrastingly bright yellow peeked out from the lining of a dress. Two pieces will for sure get play — the structured orange dress on Vlada Roslykova and the black dress on Nimue Smit with asymmetrical shoulders — padding on one side, points on the other. The only question that remains: why was Lithuanian newcomer Auguste Tomasuite (aka Auguste Abeliunaite) crying on the runway?
>> INSIDER WIRE —Steven Meisel's obsession with the Brit it-girls continues. It all started when he photographed Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe for Pringle Spring 2009. He was so enamored, he placed Pixie on the cover of Vogue Italia February 2009 with Daisy and Eliza Cummings inside; then came a portfolio for W March 2009 with Daisy, Eliza, Portia Freeman, and Peaches Geldof. Now, it's rumored that he's shot Eliza Cummings again — this time, for the Vogue Italia April 2009 cover. She has been having a runway moment, walking Rodarte, Marc Jacobs, Luella, and Missoni . . . [Fashionista]
>> Last night, Victor Demarchelier, son of Patrick Demarchelier and boyfriend of Caroline Trentini, had his first photography opening with Alexandra Richards last night in New York. Carol was, unsurprisingly, his favorite lens subject, posing for a number of photos dressed only from heels to waist, but she wasn't in attendance — and as far as we know, she's not in Milan, either. She must still be visiting with her family in Brazil or recuperating from her Carnival appearance in Rio de Janeiro last week. One attendee who was a bit of a surprise, however: Grace Coddington — Vogue is sending fewer editors to Milan this season, but I would've thought the creative director would make the cut.
*image: source, source
>> THE MODELIZER —There's been a big question to where and when the much buzzed-about newcomer Rose Cordero would show up — and now we know. Her runway debut came at Burberry today — she ended a black model drought at Burberry that as far as I can tell dated back to Spring 2005, with Liya Kebede — to a positive reaction: "everyone [is] loving the extraordinary, new black girl with the perfectly clipped afro." [The Moment Twitter]
>> It's well-known that Donatella Versace looks at Christopher Kane as a protege — he worked on Atelier Versace, consulted on Versace accessories, and many expect him to one day take Donatella's place.
He's been out on his own for a few years now doing his own thing, but in honor of the relaunch of Versus, which returns with clothing in 2010, Kane is designing a capsule collection of Versus bags and shoes to be shown this weekend. Word leaked from the Versace camp today, and it was confirmed by Kane's PR — Donatella is expected to make the official announcement this weekend.