Posts for February 18th 2009

Kate Moss

>> THE MODELIZER —This morning, Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs, and the Costume Institute's Harold Koda held a press conference detailing this year's exhibit, The Model as Muse.  Before Marc headed off to the gym, to watch 1909 Victorinox front row, and finally to Paris this afternoon to work on Louis Vuitton, he took a moment to talk about Kate Moss, his co-chair for the event.  Her first New York runway appearance ever was for his 1992 grunge collection at Perry Ellis, and apparently Moss was so sick that day, they had to arrange a special dressing room for her.
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>> THE MODELIZER —This morning, Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs, and the Costume Institute's Harold Koda held a press conference detailing this year's exhibit, The Model as Muse.  Before Marc headed off to the gym, to watch 1909 Victorinox front row, and finally to Paris this afternoon to work on Louis Vuitton, he took a moment to talk about Kate Moss, his co-chair for the event.  Her first New York runway appearance ever was for his 1992 grunge collection at Perry Ellis, and apparently Moss was so sick that day, they had to arrange a special dressing room for her. “She didn’t want to let me down.  Even in pain, she stuck it out and did the show. It was something that brought us together.” [Papermag, Style File]

Fall 2009 Takes Proenza Schouler Back to Its Roots
Proenza Schouler

Fall 2009 Takes Proenza Schouler Back to Its Roots

>> Designers have been dealing with the possibility of flagging Fall 2009 sales in different ways — some have opted to stay close to their brand identity, and some, like Marc Jacobs, have ignored it all and gone full steam ahead with whatever they were feeling.  Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez look to be in the former category, in that instead of innovating and experimenting with new looks and shapes like they have for the past few seasons, they have gone back to their Fall roots — bustier dresses, tailored pieces, and coats in dark colors and jewel tones.  Not to say that it means the brand has become stagnant — the set of looks with crushed velvet jaggedly intermeshed with sheer panels will definitely sell in the right crowd — the one Proenza is aiming for anyway — and the PS1's next iteration as puffy oversized clutch is sure to create as much fervor as its predecessor.*image: source
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>> Designers have been dealing with the possibility of flagging Fall 2009 sales in different ways — some have opted to stay close to their brand identity, and some, like Marc Jacobs, have ignored it all and gone full steam ahead with whatever they were feeling.  Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez look to be in the former category, in that instead of innovating and experimenting with new looks and shapes like they have for the past few seasons, they have gone back to their Fall roots — bustier dresses, tailored pieces, and coats in dark colors and jewel tones.  Not to say that it means the brand has become stagnant — the set of looks with crushed velvet jaggedly intermeshed with sheer panels will definitely sell in the right crowd — the one Proenza is aiming for anyway — and the PS1's next iteration as puffy oversized clutch is sure to create as much fervor as its predecessor.
*image: source

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Anna Sui

>> THE MODELIZER —Agyness Deyn recently prompted rumors of retirement when she said of Fashion Week: "I do like doing it.
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>> THE MODELIZER —Agyness Deyn recently prompted rumors of retirement when she said of Fashion Week: "I do like doing it. But you know when you kind of have it figured out in your head that you don’t want to do this forever?"  And it didn't help that days of runway shows passed, and no sign of Agy . . . until this evening.  She did both opening and closing honors at Anna Sui Fall 2009, "skipping down the runway" at the end of the show. [BunnyBisous Twitter, CarolHan Twitter]

*image: source

Don The Verb Presentation Fall 2009

Don The Verb Presentation Fall 2009

Don the Verb showed their Fall 2009 collection downtown last night at the Hotel on Rivington. With a guest list that can only be described as "the downtown set" the place quickly filled up to watch models wearing fur-lined moccasin sandals and draped frocks slink down the runway. The best parts were the drop-crotch trousers, strong shoulders, and surplus of black--all of which should please Don The Verb's edgy-but-sophisticated clientele. As for the accessories, there were Native American moments thanks to the fur lined pocketbooks and sandals, and wartime references thanks to the black lipstick and gorgeous retro hats. If only all of our fashion week days could end in the Lower East Side...

At Marchesa Fall 2009, Beauty Is Pain
Helena Christensen

At Marchesa Fall 2009, Beauty Is Pain

>> Marchesa's bread and butter is gowns, so even when some designers are shying away from them this season, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have to go ahead full-force.  The inspiration for Fall 2009?
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>> Marchesa's bread and butter is gowns, so even when some designers are shying away from them this season, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have to go ahead full-force.  The inspiration for Fall 2009? A whimsical fairy tale involving girls walking through the woods in ballgowns, resulting in a tulle-d, lace-d, sequined, and beribboned collection — sometimes overwrought, but always red carpet-ready — the shredded candy pink cocktail dress and two sparkly black tulle dresses, as well as the navy one-shouldered dress with cut-out waist, if turned into a gown, will do swimmingly.  The real problem was how much the high-heeled toe shoes caused discomfort for the models — one's feet were going purple, another had to sit down, and some were leaning against the wall.  Brings the fairy tale back to reality, no?
*image: source

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terry richardson

>> THE MODELIZER —So perfect since we were talking about her return earlier: Olivier Zahm just posted a video of Terry Richardson shooting Natasa Vojnovic for the new Purple Fashion — the one with DVF in wig coat on the cover — and it is like something out of a movie — she crawls across the floor, dances around, twirls, and then walks off the set; amazing.  [Purple Diary]
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>> THE MODELIZER —So perfect since we were talking about her return earlier: Olivier Zahm just posted a video of Terry Richardson shooting Natasa Vojnovic for the new Purple Fashion — the one with DVF in wig coat on the cover — and it is like something out of a movie — she crawls across the floor, dances around, twirls, and then walks off the set; amazing.  [Purple Diary]

Fall 2009: Not Just for 15-Year-Old Models
Diane Von Furstenberg

Fall 2009: Not Just for 15-Year-Old Models

>> New York Fashion Week is known as the springboard for new faces every season, but for Fall 2009, it's become the springboard for comebacks — especially with models right around the 30-year-old mark.  This morning, Frankie Rayder (34), who hasn't hit a catwalk since the Fall 2004 with the exception of Spring 2009 Givenchy, walked Michael Kors.  The runways of Preen, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, and Marc Jacobs have been especially overrun with these mainly late-'90s, early-00's faces — from those who have hovered in and out the past few seasons: Anne Catherine Lacroix (29), Natasa Vojnovic (29), Caroline Ribeiro (29), Jamie Bochert (28), Christina Kruse (34), Carmen Kass (30), Colette Pechekhonova (28), Hannelore Knuts (31); to those who have exited the runway for a while — Tasha Tilberg (29), Kirsten Owen (38), Trish Goff (32) — all are booking some of the most coveted spots this season.  Kors, Behnaz Sarafpour, Staerk, VPL, and Diane von Furstenberg are feeling it too — the mature woman is back in New York.*image: source
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Fall 2009: Not Just for 15-Year-Old Models

>> New York Fashion Week is known as the springboard for new faces every season, but for Fall 2009, it's become the springboard for comebacks — especially with models right around the 30-year-old mark.  This morning, Frankie Rayder (34), who hasn't hit a catwalk since the Fall 2004 with the exception of Spring 2009 Givenchy, walked Michael Kors.  The runways of Preen, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, and Marc Jacobs have been especially overrun with these mainly late-'90s, early-00's faces — from those who have hovered in and out the past few seasons: Anne Catherine Lacroix (29), Natasa Vojnovic (29), Caroline Ribeiro (29), Jamie Bochert (28), Christina Kruse (34), Carmen Kass (30), Colette Pechekhonova (28), Hannelore Knuts (31); to those who have exited the runway for a while — Tasha Tilberg (29), Kirsten Owen (38), Trish Goff (32) — all are booking some of the most coveted spots this season.  Kors, Behnaz Sarafpour, Staerk, VPL, and Diane von Furstenberg are feeling it too — the mature woman is back in New York.
*image: source

Frankie Rayder at Michael Kors Frankie Rayder at Michael Kors Kirsten Owen at Preen Anne Catherine Lacroix at Marc Jacobs Anne Catherine Lacroix at Preen Caroline Ribeiro at Michael Kors Caroline Ribeiro at Diane von Furstenberg
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