>> THE MODELIZER —This morning, Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs, and the Costume Institute's Harold Koda held a press conference detailing this year's exhibit, The Model as Muse. Before Marc headed off to the gym, to watch 1909 Victorinox front row, and finally to Paris this afternoon to work on Louis Vuitton, he took a moment to talk about Kate Moss, his co-chair for the event. Her first New York runway appearance ever was for his 1992 grunge collection at Perry Ellis, and apparently Moss was so sick that day, they had to arrange a special dressing room for her. “She didn’t want to let me down. Even in pain, she stuck it out and did the show. It was something that brought us together.” [Papermag, Style File]
Posts for February 18th 2009
New York 02/18/09. Photos by Scott Gries/Getty Images.
>> Designers have been dealing with the possibility of flagging Fall 2009 sales in different ways — some have opted to stay close to their brand identity, and some, like Marc Jacobs, have ignored it all and gone full steam ahead with whatever they were feeling. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez look to be in the former category, in that instead of innovating and experimenting with new looks and shapes like they have for the past few seasons, they have gone back to their Fall roots — bustier dresses, tailored pieces, and coats in dark colors and jewel tones. Not to say that it means the brand has become stagnant — the set of looks with crushed velvet jaggedly intermeshed with sheer panels will definitely sell in the right crowd — the one Proenza is aiming for anyway — and the PS1's next iteration as puffy oversized clutch is sure to create as much fervor as its predecessor.
>> THE MODELIZER —Agyness Deyn recently prompted rumors of retirement when she said of Fashion Week: "I do like doing it. But you know when you kind of have it figured out in your head that you don’t want to do this forever?" And it didn't help that days of runway shows passed, and no sign of Agy . . . until this evening. She did both opening and closing honors at Anna Sui Fall 2009, "skipping down the runway" at the end of the show. [BunnyBisous Twitter, CarolHan Twitter]
>> Marchesa's bread and butter is gowns, so even when some designers are shying away from them this season, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have to go ahead full-force. The inspiration for Fall 2009? A whimsical fairy tale involving girls walking through the woods in ballgowns, resulting in a tulle-d, lace-d, sequined, and beribboned collection — sometimes overwrought, but always red carpet-ready — the shredded candy pink cocktail dress and two sparkly black tulle dresses, as well as the navy one-shouldered dress with cut-out waist, if turned into a gown, will do swimmingly. The real problem was how much the high-heeled toe shoes caused discomfort for the models — one's feet were going purple, another had to sit down, and some were leaning against the wall. Brings the fairy tale back to reality, no?
>> THE MODELIZER —So perfect since we were talking about her return earlier: Olivier Zahm just posted a video of Terry Richardson shooting Natasa Vojnovic for the new Purple Fashion — the one with DVF in wig coat on the cover — and it is like something out of a movie — she crawls across the floor, dances around, twirls, and then walks off the set; amazing. [Purple Diary]
>> New York Fashion Week is known as the springboard for new faces every season, but for Fall 2009, it's become the springboard for comebacks — especially with models right around the 30-year-old mark. This morning, Frankie Rayder (34), who hasn't hit a catwalk since the Fall 2004 with the exception of Spring 2009 Givenchy, walked Michael Kors. The runways of Preen, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, and Marc Jacobs have been especially overrun with these mainly late-'90s, early-00's faces — from those who have hovered in and out the past few seasons: Anne Catherine Lacroix (29), Natasa Vojnovic (29), Caroline Ribeiro (29), Jamie Bochert (28), Christina Kruse (34), Carmen Kass (30), Colette Pechekhonova (28), Hannelore Knuts (31); to those who have exited the runway for a while — Tasha Tilberg (29), Kirsten Owen (38), Trish Goff (32) — all are booking some of the most coveted spots this season. Kors, Behnaz Sarafpour, Staerk, VPL, and Diane von Furstenberg are feeling it too — the mature woman is back in New York.