Posts for February 17th 2009

Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Brings Fall 2009's Neon Back to the '00s

>> This evening, Narciso Rodriguez took the neon nuances of Marc Jacobs's Fall 2009 collection — which Cathy Horyn called "hard to like" — and did with them something Marc did not: made them modern.  In fact, Narciso's best pieces were the neon ones: the highlighter yellow body-conscious dress worn by Natasha Poly will be fought over; the loose citrine dress with snap sleeves donned by Stephanie Carta and Ali Stephens's lace-overlayed pink highlighter minidress are also strong contenders.  The camouflage pieces could be done without — except for Sessilee Lopez's pants; but more standouts — Liu Wen's polished silk top and wool pant, Diana Farkhullina's rich blue-purple dress, and Raquel Zimmerman's chic white frock more than make up for them.  Perhaps even more amazing these days — Narciso's show was fully self-funded, and yet, it still felt like a true show — the bass was so loud, it reverberated in our seats, causing the Financial Times's Vanessa Friedman to bob her head along in approval.*image: source
Narciso Rodriguez Brings Fall 2009's Neon Back to the '00s

>> This evening, Narciso Rodriguez took the neon nuances of Marc Jacobs's Fall 2009 collection — which Cathy Horyn called "hard to like" — and did with them something Marc did not: made them modern.  In fact, Narciso's best pieces were the neon ones: the highlighter yellow body-conscious dress worn by Natasha Poly will be fought over; the loose citrine dress with snap sleeves donned by Stephanie Carta and Ali Stephens's lace-overlayed pink highlighter minidress are also strong contenders.  The camouflage pieces could be done without — except for Sessilee Lopez's pants; but more standouts — Liu Wen's polished silk top and wool pant, Diana Farkhullina's rich blue-purple dress, and Raquel Zimmerman's chic white frock more than make up for them.  Perhaps even more amazing these days — Narciso's show was fully self-funded, and yet, it still felt like a true show — the bass was so loud, it reverberated in our seats, causing the Financial Times's Vanessa Friedman to bob her head along in approval.
*image: source

Rodarte

>> INSIDER WIRE —It was only a matter of time with their couture-like capabilities: Pierre-Yves Roussel, CEO of LVMH's fashion division, was in attendance at Rodarte today.  Although LVMH sources say that none of their houses are currently in need of a design switch-up, it appeared that Laura and Kate Mulleavy were being scouted just in case.  This is not the first notable case of up-and-coming talent scouting this week — Sir Philip Green sat front row at Alexander Wang.

>> INSIDER WIRE —It was only a matter of time with their couture-like capabilities: Pierre-Yves Roussel, CEO of LVMH's fashion division, was in attendance at Rodarte today.  Although LVMH sources say that none of their houses are currently in need of a design switch-up, it appeared that Laura and Kate Mulleavy were being scouted just in case.  This is not the first notable case of up-and-coming talent scouting this week — Sir Philip Green sat front row at Alexander Wang. [WWD]
*image: source

Diane Von Furstenberg

For Fall 2009, Designers Hemming Their Gown Production

>> Besides the obvious runway trends that have emerged — cut-outs, metallics, thigh-high boots, emphasized shoulders — we're seeing something else: designers are sending out a substantially less gowns down the runway.  Now we're talking designers who dabble with gowns, not whose livelihoods depend on the red carpet — see Monique Lhuillier, Badgley Mischka, and their ilk — but Rodarte, who usually end their collections with a trio of three gowns, chose to bypass that segment for Fall 2009, sticking to minidress silhouettes all the way through.Max Azria, who usually does at least three full-length dresses for Herve Leger, didn't have one hem below knee-length for the Fall 2009 collection.

>> Besides the obvious runway trends that have emerged — cut-outs, metallics, thigh-high boots, emphasized shoulders — we're seeing something else: designers are sending out a substantially less gowns down the runway.  Now we're talking designers who dabble with gowns, not whose livelihoods depend on the red carpet — see Monique Lhuillier, Badgley Mischka, and their ilk — but Rodarte, who usually end their collections with a trio of three gowns, chose to bypass that segment for Fall 2009, sticking to minidress silhouettes all the way through.

Max Azria, who usually does at least three full-length dresses for Herve Leger, didn't have one hem below knee-length for the Fall 2009 collection. Diane von Furstenberg, who showed four floor-sweeping frocks for Spring 2009 and five for Fall 2008, had one singular gown — the last look — for Fall 2009.  Erin Fetherston, known for her proclivity for long, flowy dresses, had at least seven last season; for Fall 2009, there was one.  Matthew Williamson produced seven gowns for Spring 2009 and four for Fall 2008; this season, he went down to three.  Narciso Rodriguez didn't do any for Fall 2009; the list goes on.

So is it because we're maxed out on maxi dresses?  Because a long dress takes more fabric and therefore is more expensive to produce?  Because separates will likely sell better?  Because gowns just look too extravagant in these pinching times?  Whatever it is, we could be seeing a lot more cocktail-length dresses on the red carpet if this keeps up; that or, the gowns will all have to be custom.
*image: source

Vogue

>> THE MODELIZER —An update on the eight-model May 2009 Vogue cover featuring "today's best models" — the number may have been bumped up to nine, and it's expected to be a foldout cover.  Also, another name to add to the five who are supposedly already attached: Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington's favorite jumper, Caroline Trentini.

>> THE MODELIZER —An update on the eight-model May 2009 Vogue cover featuring "today's best models" — the number may have been bumped up to nine, and it's expected to be a foldout cover.  Also, another name to add to the five who are supposedly already attached: Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington's favorite jumper, Caroline Trentini. (If you're missing her from Fashion Week, fret not, apparently she's spending time with her family in Brazil and is expected to pop up in later Fashion Weeks). [Glamurama, TFS]

2009 Fashion Week

Bodkin Fall 2009: Blessed By the Dalai Lama

>> She sent out her invitations with an air plant inside and was just awarded the first ever Ecco Domani sustainable design award, so former Teen Vogue and Nylon writer Eviana Hartman had set herself apart even before she unveiled her first official show at The Horticultural Society of New York yesterday.  Being committed to the eco-conscious involves using dyes derived from eggplants or spinach leaves, quilting from recycled bottles, and non-violent silk blessed by the Dalai Lama — “Working sustainably imposes constraints.
Bodkin Fall 2009: Blessed By the Dalai Lama

>> She sent out her invitations with an air plant inside and was just awarded the first ever Ecco Domani sustainable design award, so former Teen Vogue and Nylon writer Eviana Hartman had set herself apart even before she unveiled her first official show at The Horticultural Society of New York yesterday.  Being committed to the eco-conscious involves using dyes derived from eggplants or spinach leaves, quilting from recycled bottles, and non-violent silk blessed by the Dalai Lama — “Working sustainably imposes constraints. You can’t just think, ‘What do I want to make right now?’ You start there, but the next question is, ‘What’s possible? Can I dye that color organically? Is there a recycled fabric that exists that gets me to the right look?’” — but it doesn't mean that style has to be sacrificed, as Hartman proved with her dip-dyed jumpsuits and tunics.
*image: source