Posts for February 12th 2009
>> Victoria Bartlett, who has dubbed the Fall 2009 collection for her sportswear-cum-undergarment line VPL "Exquisite Corpse," is keeping a collaboration from last season very much alive. Joining the ever-growing list of jewelry partnerships this season, Bartlett tapped arts-and-crafts-style specialist Lizzie Fortunato Jewels for a second round, resulting in an assortment of blocky, geometric pieces, banded bangles, and fabric ornaments to go with her "shifted Picasso women" theme.
>> THE ZEITGEIST —It's not even officially Day 1 of New York Fashion Week yet, and already three collections have debuted on video. Joining Halston in doing the video lookbook are Melissa Coker of Wren, who collaborated with filmmaker friend Alia Raza last season and repeated the partnership again this season with "Discreet Nightmare," and Alison Lewis of Lewis, who worked with Bradley Gutierrez to produce a gauzy, romantic look at her collection. [Interview, The Pipeline]
>> Christina and Swaim Hutson had to abruptly close down tailored, suiting-anchored Obedient Sons & Daughters last month and restart with new label Hutson, which begs the question — will Hutson be any different? Christina says yes. "There are some similarities, since we're the same people, but we tried to stick with more of a formula with Obedient Sons. Now we have the freedom to experiment a little with silhouettes and fabrications and things like that."
In fact, the Hutsons sound almost relieved to be starting over — Swaim says they "kind of felt pigeonholed . . . We didn't want to stray from what was working." Hutson allows them "to grow it up. Because that's one thing we were fighting the whole time. The name evokes such a young thought, immediately."
For Hutson Fall 2009, Swaim explains, expect "a departure" from Obedient Sons & Daughters' standard skinny fit: "We were kind of moving in that direction anyway, and when everything hit the fan it just made more sense to push it a little bit further. We could step away from what we had to do for Obedient Sons." The new collection is "all still trailored," but Christina adds: "Now we're experimenting with more oversized and loose proportions. Bigger tops, bigger jackets, extremely oversized outerwear."
>> INSIDER WIRE —Topshop has pushed back its US opening date again — although this time, by only a few days. First, it was last September, then mid-March, then late March, and now it's April 2. Sir Philip Green is unveiling full details of the store and its launch Monday — so hopefully, this time it's for real. [WWD]
>> The meteoric rise of Jason Wu — he has tripled his sales appointments for his sold out, yet-to-be-unveiled Fall 2009 collection — shows what an influence Michelle Obama can have on a designer. But Wu doesn't just have Obama to thank — he never actually interacted with the First Lady, but rather with Ikram Goldman, owner of Chicago boutique Ikram, and Obama's gatekeeper to the fashion industry.
In fact, none of the designers who have made clothes for the First Lady have had any direct contact with their White House client — all commissions, measurements, bills, and other directions have been mediated by Ikram, causing something of a controversy; the clothes that Obama has worn recently are predominantly from designers that Cathy Horyn points out, "Ikram sells and ultimately stands to benefit from" — Jason Wu, Isabel Toledo, Narciso Rodriguez, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, and Mario Cornejo.
>> BLOWING THE COVER —Katie Grand promised the first issue of Love would be "very curvy," and judging by the cover alone — featuring the zaftig Beth Ditto — she did not tell a lie. As for her further promise — that "no one is a sample size in the whole issue, and it's not so retouched," we'll just have to wait and see; Beth is obviously missing a couple of anatomical parts in the shot — albeit likely to meet cover standards — and the cover photographers, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, are not exactly known for their light hand with the Photoshopping. Nonetheless, the cover is striking — let's hope it sells. [The Imagist]
Kingdom Of Style reported on Pollini's Spring 2009 collection, made colorful by creative director Jonathan Saunders.
Kitten Lounge offered lingerie options a-plenty thanks to a specialty e-commerce site called Hip Undies.
02/12/09 New York. Photos by Coutorture.com.