>> Tomas Maier is ever working the understated, the investment dress angle at Bottega Veneta — and the Grace Kelly twist he took for Fall 2009 seems so right. The gauzy goddess gowns with rectangle-shaped tiers in the skirt were full-on glamour of the best kind; sure to be snapped up for a red-carpet appearance here, an editorial there. But even the simple chocolate nappa leather or mauve velvet strapless dresses resounded — warm tones in a season full of cold blacks and grays. Resisting full-on ladylike, Maier slipped in "sly fetishistic" underwires and seams cupping the breasts into his dresses, and first-hand viewers called the collection "breathtaking" and "dreamy." The only lack of beauty shown? Apparently the pit photographers screamed at the models in Italian, and the "front row was appalled."
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Posts for February 2009
>> INSIDER WIRE —No one ever said Valentino was easy to work with, but former Valentino CEO Matteo Marzotto, who hosted a press conference in Milan today for his new Vionnet acquisition, basically confirmed it. "For the first time in my life I’m working with somebody who’s down to earth [newly-hired Vionnet designer Rodolfo Paglialunga]. As you can imagine — and I loved it very much — but I’ve been working with superstars. They can be difficult." [Heard on the Runway]
Milan Fashion Week: Jil Sander Fall 2009
Dundas's Debut Fall 2009 Pucci Collection Minimizes Prints
>> Matthew Williamson's gone from Pucci, and he seems to have taken the brand's bright, kaleidoscopic prints with him. Peter Dundas is in the house, and his interpretation of the Pucci heritage for Fall 2009 involves darker, moodier colors with a rock and roll vibe; the slit-up-to-there strapless gowns and super-minidresses are drawing Balmain comparisons from a number of sources. But critics — although some are unsure about the lack of prints — seem ready to give Dundas a chance: management did want a new, modern image, after all. WWD encouraged Dundas's movement beyond the print heritage: "The fact is that [Pucci] has to." The Moment agreed that the collection felt "relevent to the times and the house," as did Cathy Horyn: " If Dundas can develop 'the product,' as retailers say, he may just have something at Pucci."
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>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS —The portfolio — and some outtakes — Ellen von Unwerth photographed in her makeshift studio backstage at couture last month is finally up. Moments like Tanya Dziahileva in Armani Prive standing next to Anna Piaggi or a fish face-pink braided topknot combination at Lacroix were captured just seconds before the models were whisked off by handlers, to be stripped down and taken to their next show. [The Moment, NYT]
Tom Ford Expanding into Womenswear with Facchinetti?
>> Tom Ford pulled a Karl Lagerfeld for Spring 2009, taking over shooting his brand's ads from Terry Richardson. Some shots featured Karen Elson sporting his eyewear, prompting a new round of that ever-present question — is Tom Ford doing womenswear? It did used to be his forte, after all.
Turns out there is hope — circulating Milan Fashion Week is the rumor that Alessandra Facchinetti, who was unceremoniously dumped by Valentino last season, is currently working on Ford's nascent womenswear line. Most appropriate, since Facchinetti was top womenswear designer under Ford at Gucci, before taking over when he left that brand.
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>> INSIDER WIRE — Pre-Fall collections are widely recognized as an incubator for a designer to try out ideas before use in a main collection, but for his Fall 2009 Burberry collection, Christopher Bailey seems to have more than just evolved ideas from his Pre-Fall collection. Rather, he appears to have re-used or only made slight adjustments to Pre-Fall looks before sending them down the Fall 2009 runway — prints, shapes, and silhouettes on a number of looks appear the same in both collections. [ONTD_FF]
Jil Sander Fall 2009: So Beautiful, Model Cries on the Runway
>> Raf Simons had a tough act to follow after his stunning fringe-filled Spring 2009 Jil Sander collection, but he pulled it off. The first half of the Fall 2009 show was filled with simple dresses, tailored coats, trousers, and flats in a predominantly neutral palette, and then a flash of colored strobe lights came on and the real experimentation began. As Cathy Horyn put it, Raf "tried to defy gravity" — stunning curvilinear shapes poked out from the hip of a dress or snaked around the neck of a coat; a contrastingly bright yellow peeked out from the lining of a dress. Two pieces will for sure get play — the structured orange dress on Vlada Roslykova and the black dress on Nimue Smit with asymmetrical shoulders — padding on one side, points on the other. The only question that remains: why was Lithuanian newcomer Auguste Tomasuite (aka Auguste Abeliunaite) crying on the runway?
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Steven Meisel's obsession with the Brit it-girls continues. It all started when he photographed Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe for Pringle Spring 2009. He was so enamored, he placed Pixie on the cover of Vogue Italia February 2009 with Daisy and Eliza Cummings inside; then came a portfolio for W March 2009 with Daisy, Eliza, Portia Freeman, and Peaches Geldof. Now, it's rumored that he's shot Eliza Cummings again — this time, for the Vogue Italia April 2009 cover. She has been having a runway moment, walking Rodarte, Marc Jacobs, Luella, and Missoni . . . [Fashionista]
Caroline Trentini a No-Show at Boyf Victor Demarchelier's Opening
>> Last night, Victor Demarchelier, son of Patrick Demarchelier and boyfriend of Caroline Trentini, had his first photography opening with Alexandra Richards last night in New York. Carol was, unsurprisingly, his favorite lens subject, posing for a number of photos dressed only from heels to waist, but she wasn't in attendance — and as far as we know, she's not in Milan, either. She must still be visiting with her family in Brazil or recuperating from her Carnival appearance in Rio de Janeiro last week. One attendee who was a bit of a surprise, however: Grace Coddington — Vogue is sending fewer editors to Milan this season, but I would've thought the creative director would make the cut.
*image: source, source




