Posts for January 2009

Menswear

Berlin Fashion Week: Odeur Fall 2009

Yesterday officially marked the start of Berlin Fashion Week and with the Fall 2009 menswear and Spring 2009 haute couture shows behind us, and two weeks to go until New York Fashion Week, we welcome the opportunity to check out some hip emerging designers.
Berlin Fashion Week: Odeur Fall 2009

Yesterday officially marked the start of Berlin Fashion Week and with the Fall 2009 menswear and Spring 2009 haute couture shows behind us, and two weeks to go until New York Fashion Week, we welcome the opportunity to check out some hip emerging designers. To start things off, check out the Fall 2009 look book of Swedish menswear brand Odeur, sent to us thanks to Berlin's Temporary Showroom. Right now, Odeur can only be found in Sweden, Japan and Germany but hopefully Fall 09 will change all that. 

Karl Lagerfeld

LVMH Funding Gareth Pugh's Shows

>> Gareth Pugh and the good people at LVMH may deny that Pugh hasn't been welcomed into the luxury group fold just yet, but there's definitely something going on between them.  LVMH is financing Pugh's shows and keeping close watch on him for a future appointment or partnership — Dior Homme seem to be the suggestion.

>> Gareth Pugh and the good people at LVMH may deny that Pugh hasn't been welcomed into the luxury group fold just yet, but there's definitely something going on between them.  LVMH is financing Pugh's shows and keeping close watch on him for a future appointment or partnership — Dior Homme seem to be the suggestion.

"We’ve been helping with his shows. That’s what we always do, support new talent,” according to Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. "He’s an interesting designer, and it’s good to support him. Don’t ask me for the exact amount. But LVMH does that with many talented people."

The sum extended for Pugh's menswear show on Sunday is said to be a low, five figure sum, and sources say that Pugh has met with executives at LVMH headquarters.  Karl Lagerfeld, who is creative director at LVMH-owned Fendi, is said to have advanced Pugh's candidacy for Dior Homme.
*image: source

Diane Von Furstenberg

>> INSIDER WIRE —Following in the footsteps of Zac Posen and Peter Som, Diane von Furstenberg has joined with American Express to hold a second Fashion Week show specifically for cardholders.  Instead of a repeat of her Fall 2009 show, the event will showcase mostly Spring 2009 looks that are currently in stores, with a few Fall 2009 looks at the end.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Following in the footsteps of Zac Posen and Peter Som, Diane von Furstenberg has joined with American Express to hold a second Fashion Week show specifically for cardholders.  Instead of a repeat of her Fall 2009 show, the event will showcase mostly Spring 2009 looks that are currently in stores, with a few Fall 2009 looks at the end.   She will also do a short Q & A session with Andre Leon Talley before the presentation. [Heard on the Runway]
*image: source

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein Brings Back Steamy Jeans Commercials

>> It's been a few years since Brooke Shields told us that nothing comes between her and her Calvins — almost two decades.  Not since the early '80s, when those Calvin Klein Jeans commercials were running, has the brand tried to top them.Enter 2009, the year the label finally gives it another go, with a grainy Steven Meisel-shot commercial featuring Anna Selezneva, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, and Natasha Poly greased up and writhing in nothing but their Calvins.  The ads have already been banned from even late-night cable TV — nothing CK isn't used to, since the same thing happened last year with their Eva Mendes Secret Obsession commercial — but they plan on having this one actually make it on TV in the US.  An edited version will air on American cable, and countries like Italy, France, Spain, and Germany will run the unedited version below.

>> It's been a few years since Brooke Shields told us that nothing comes between her and her Calvins — almost two decades.  Not since the early '80s, when those Calvin Klein Jeans commercials were running, has the brand tried to top them.

Enter 2009, the year the label finally gives it another go, with a grainy Steven Meisel-shot commercial featuring Anna Selezneva, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, and Natasha Poly greased up and writhing in nothing but their Calvins.  The ads have already been banned from even late-night cable TV — nothing CK isn't used to, since the same thing happened last year with their Eva Mendes Secret Obsession commercial — but they plan on having this one actually make it on TV in the US.  An edited version will air on American cable, and countries like Italy, France, Spain, and Germany will run the unedited version below.

The banned commercial (NSFW) »

Quote of the Day

Quote Of The Day: Dolce & Gabbana Take Shape

All men and women want to be sexy--In the last three seasons, when we tried to change shapes with the new volume, customers altered the shape in the shop to be tighter like before.
All men and women want to be sexy--In the last three seasons, when we tried to change shapes with the new volume, customers altered the shape in the shop to be tighter like before.
Layout

Spring 2009 Haute Couture Trend Report: Transparency Reigns

Only in fashion could something so insubstantial come with a 40,000 price tag.

Only in fashion could something so insubstantial come with a 40,000 price tag. In all honesty though, we're happy to see the transparency trend carrying through the Haute Couture shows. Modern, minimal, clean this look leaves a lot of room for creative interpretation without ever eliciting the desire to be excessive.

Maison Martin Margiela

Report From Antwerp: The Last Weeks Of The Martin Margiela Retrospective

Coutorture correspondent and all-around great gal, Brigitte Nicole, catches the last weeks of the Martin Margiela Retrospective in Antwerp.
Report From Antwerp: The Last Weeks Of The Martin Margiela Retrospective

Coutorture correspondent and all-around great gal, Brigitte Nicole, catches the last weeks of the Martin Margiela Retrospective in Antwerp. Her report and photos for our viewing pleasure...

Forever keeping a hidden identity, Martin Margiela has been compared to likes of literary recluse JD Salinger and faceless graffiti artist Banksy. His design house dissolves the notion of one celebritized designer to a team who simply refer to themselves as “we”.  These democratic workings are esteemed to further conceptual levels by combining them with a breaking of systemized rules--sale associates in white lab coats, long blonde locks transformed into shoulder-heavy jackets, erratic numbering to designate different collections, and unusual materials reworked with Savile-Row quality tailoring.

Founded in 1988, a time where the fashion world was ruled by celebrities and super models, Margiela kept his scope limited to fashion and fashion alone. Emerging out of Antwerp, where he attended fashion design at Royal Academy of Arts, he moved to Paris, working as Jean Paul Gaultier’s assistant until he created a house to carry his name. This past October marked 20 years, and to celebrate, a retrospective depicting 23 dominant themes at the house were displayed at Antwerp's MoMu. The exhibition still stands through February, but for those who do not have extra air miles to Antwerp...

Stella McCartney

Fashion In 50 Seconds 01/29/09 Luella Magazine A Hoax & More

Luella magazine is a hoax and no matter how many times the statement is released, the dream is kept alive... The first brick and mortar space for Thom Browne's Black Fleece line is poised to open this weekend in the West Village.  Refinery 29 has a second edition to their report on the Stockholm Fashion Week shows.

Luella magazine is a hoax and no matter how many times the statement is released, the dream is kept alive...

The first brick and mortar space for Thom Browne's Black Fleece line is poised to open this weekend in the West Village

Refinery 29 has a second edition to their report on the Stockholm Fashion Week shows.

Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, governed by the same franchise, are both closing their recently-opened Moscow stores

jason wu

>> INSIDER WIRE —Yesterday's rumors about The New York Times outing Jason Wu to his family turn out to be false.  Style editor Trip Gabriel's response to the matter: "During his reporting, Eric Wilson asked both Wu and his partner, Gustavo Rangel, if it was okay to mention in print that they were a couple.

>> INSIDER WIRE Yesterday's rumors about The New York Times outing Jason Wu to his family turn out to be false.  Style editor Trip Gabriel's response to the matter: "During his reporting, Eric Wilson asked both Wu and his partner, Gustavo Rangel, if it was okay to mention in print that they were a couple. They both consented . . . [I]t is wrong to leave readers with the implication . . . that The New York Times someone [sic] outed Jason Wu. We take this issue seriously here. We did no such thing." [Jezebel]
*image: source