In shades of black, pearl and nude, this season's lace detailing is more graphic than it is feminine. Take inspiration from Stella McCartney's fall runway where lace panels and laser cut-outs played a major role—mixed with cashmere, silk and stretch wool in mini dresses, skinny trousers and blouses.
>> Could Elle Be Joining the Conde Nast Portfolio? —Some are speculating that Conde Nast's across-the-board 25 percent cutbacks are not just for the sake of downsizing budgets, but also to prepare for a bigger move. In his company-wide memo sent out Monday, CEO Chuck Townsend stated: "The [McKinsey] review has led us to a number of decisions designed to navigate the company through the economic downturn and to position us to take advantage of coming opportunities." Rumors abounded earlier this year that Elle was on the block, with Bazaar publisher Hearst interested, but now "industry insiders are buzzing about Conde Nast possibly acquiring Elle in its quest to fill their lineup with broader offerings," reports Fashion Week Daily. [FWD]
>> John Galliano's signature show last night was set in a warehouse 30 minutes outside of the city center of Paris; the show rehearsal was beginning and Galliano practicing his finale bow just as guests began arriving, leaving everyone outside the venue for over 30 minutes after start time while rain poured down. Guest clapped their film clapboard invites impatiently, and a bouncer tried to stop Bernard Arnault from entering the show early.
Once inside, Hilary Alexander spotted "a furious Carine Roitfeld. 'I wait all this time in the rain and you can’t even give me a glass of water,' she stormed at a hapless PR." A number of front rowers, including Suzy Menkes, opened umbrellas — the roof was leaking.
But once the show started, with long runway lit by red lasers, hundreds of bubbles pouring from the ceiling, letting loose smoke when they hit the runway and popped, and dialogue from Sunset Boulevard played over the loudspeakers, came "one of [Galliano's] best collections in a long time," in the words of Style.com's Sarah Mower. "It came from a research trip to L.A.," Galliano said of his inspiration. "I went around the old houses of Hollywood and imagined how stars like Tallulah Bankhead, Lillian Gish, and Mary Pickford lived."
As Paris Fashion Week comes to an end, we take a look at our 50 favorite moments from the runway. Alexander McQueen's mythical sea creatures on pointe toe platforms, Nicolas Ghesquière's urban warriors at Balenciaga, Karl's romp in the hay at Chanel, Marc's Afros at Louis Vuitton, and Alber Elbaz's jumpsuited glamour girls for Lanvin are each at the top of our list.
>> Christian Lacroix was missed at Paris Fashion Week, but it sounds like he could be back before long — owner Falic Group has concluded a deal to sell Lacroix's label to bidder Al Hassan bin Ali Al-Nuami. Although financial terms could not be learned, it is understood that the designer would become a minority shareholder in the company under the proposed deal.
The offer presented to the commercial court in Paris — which must still approve the deal — was made "in partnership" with Lacroix, according to a statement from the Ajman sheikh's lawyers. The sheikh pledged to continue the couture operations and ready-to-wear businesses, according to the brand's administrator, who expects the offer to be approved: "The offer has been formally lodged. It fulfils perfectly all the necessary criteria concerning maintaining the company's business, safeguarding jobs and assuming debt."
The commercial court is due to meet on the offer around October 20, and a decision could be made before the end of October.
Karl discusses the ménage à trois at Chanel and his love of lesbians with Style.com's Tim Blanks. Click here for the Chanel spring 2010 photo gallery.
>> W to Downsize Number of Yearly Issues? — News on how Teen Vogue, Vogue, and W are cutting their 2010 budgets by the required 25 percent was expected as early as tomorrow, but stylist Mary Alice Stephenson gives us one hint on what may be going down at W: "Oh no....hearing one of my favorite fashion bibles W is only going to come out 6 issues a year! Hope not true!!" [@MARYALICESTYLE]
A look back on the life and work of Irving Penn.
The triumphant return of Pheobe Philo has several retailers call her spring collection for Celine "the hit of the season."
Phillip Lim opens his fourth boutique—in Seoul.
Refinery 29 tracks a century of shrinking hemlines.
Suzy Menkes calls Alexander McQueen's spring show "the most dramatic revolution in 21st-century fashion."
Welcom to Domenico Dolce's futuristic New York digs.
Own a Marilyn Minter (tote bag) for under $50.
