Wed, 09/30/09 — 05:37:46 PM
>> Paris is minus a Christian Lacroix fashion show this time around — according to his team, this is the first time he hasn't even made a collection — but he may get one good thing out of this Fashion Week: a buyer.
Previous frontrunner Borletti, who was working with Lacroix on a bid, has dropped out because “the conditions for confirming this takeover were not brought together." Now, all eyes are on Sheikh Al Hassan bin Ali Al-Nuami, a nephew of the ruler of the emirate of Ajman, whose offer was deemed "overall very satisfactory" by Lacroix's administrator — he hopes to inject €70 million ($102 million) into the brand and keep all the company’s employees. Lacroix was involved in the talks with the sheikh; the offer involves keeping both ready-to-wear and couture businesses and will be formalized in the next 48 hours.
Yesterday was the deadline for the administrator to receive offers on the house.
Wed, 09/30/09 — 05:03:19 PM
>> Jessica Stam Sits Out Paris Fashion Week Sick, Tanya Dziahileva To Finally Walk This Season —Toni Garrn made her first catwalk appearance this season today at Gareth Pugh, but we're still missing a number of models usually on the circuit: Catherine McNeil, Raquel Zimmermann, Sigrid Agren, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, and Tanya Dziahileva among them. Word is it's possible some may be hitting the Paris catwalks, but it looks like a Tanya appearance is most likely out of the bunch. Don't expect to see Jessica Stam, though, who's been going light this season as is: She's been sick for the past few days and decided to head back to New York. [Fashin, Jess Stam Twitter, Jess Stam Twitter, Jess Stam Twitter]
Wed, 09/30/09 — 04:10:11 PM
>> Marco Zanini's new, more commercial interpretation at Rochas was so well-received last season, he kicked off Paris Fashion Week this morning, taking his designs to the runway for the first time under the label. Anna Wintour was front row for the '40s-inspired collection with below-the-knee hemlines: Zanini said he wanted to get away from classic Parisian fashion, and instead imagined "a young woman going to a boarding school in Saigon."
The reception seems to be positive, if a bit unenthused. T's Anne Christensen deemed it "not what I expected but nice"; the AP concluded that Zanini made "a strong case for [Rochas's] resurrection"; Cathy Horyn called it "interesting, unhurried . . . I sensed [Zanini] was doing his version of French sportswear, perhaps inspired by the Rochas legacy"; and WWD noted that the collection had similarities to Dries van Noten's work, but "Zanini seems to have plenty of ideas and enough technical skill to put Rochas somewhere on the map."
Wed, 09/30/09 — 03:04:31 PM
>> Giorgio Armani Eases Workload —His hepatitis diagnosis in May and slighter figure in June when he presented his Spring 2010 collection have spurred many questions about the future for Giorgio Armani and his brand. Although he avoided questions about naming a successor last week, saying he has no plans to ease up, Armani announced three senior management changes today to help ease his workload. “The illness made me understand that you can’t joke with your life. For years, I ignored myself completely until I received this blow, which happened for a reason. I realized I had to be more careful. All the stress and mental and physical possibilities take their toll." He admitted to working shorter hours, but also noted that, “during my illness, I realized how much I need creative outlets." [WWD, WWD]
Wed, 09/30/09 — 02:03:57 PM
>> Less than a week before Alexander McQueen shows for Spring 2010 next Tuesday, his Fall 2009 campaign has appeared, featuring Tara Gill shot by David Burton. The effect is much different than that amped-up dramatic show, but at this point we're already looking forward to what's coming on Tuesday — the designer has been busy dropping hints on Twitter like: "Dante's Inferno !!!!!," "TRANSMUTATION," "The Creationist?," "MEDUSA," "NEBULA," "HUBBLE PALLET [sic]," "FULL CIRCLE," and posting a picture to do with the origin of species. Mid-September he Tweeted, "Fashion month has started with banality," so hopefully his collection will help change that.
Wed, 09/30/09 — 01:32:47 PM
>> Lindsay Lohan Still In Place at Ungaro, Invites Miley Cyrus to Attend Show Sunday —Lindsay Lohan debuts the first collection she designed with Estrella Archs for Emanuel Ungaro on Sunday during Paris Fashion Week, and despite rumors that she might already be on the outs, she is indeed in Paris and just saw her office earlier today: "It's so pretty! I was shocked&so happy I cried!!! A dream come true!" The show's front row could turn out to be like Marc Jacobs's of yore: she's been busy at work inviting Miley Cyrus and Sarah Silverman to attend. [Lindsay Lohan Twitter, Lindsay Lohan Twitter, Lindsay Lohan Twitter]
Update: Lohan may be getting her boldface friends to attend the show, but apparently a number of buyers have declined their invitations to Ungaro due to her participation. [StyleWriterNYC Twitter]
Wed, 09/30/09 — 12:04:30 PM
>> For his second major runway show in Paris — last time around he surprised everyone with a video presentation instead — Gareth Pugh, went softer, androgynous, and gray. None of his until-now trademark hard-edged black and white palette to be seen — gray covered the model's faces, hairs, nails, bodies, and even blocked out their eyebrows. Toni Garrn walked for the first time this season.
Showstopping plumed mohawk headdresses are an editorial shoe-in, and will perhaps soon be seen on front row guest Rihanna, dressed in Pugh, who marked the designer's first major celebrity front row guest (Adrian Grenier and Michael Stipe also attended). Both menswear and womenswear were combined into one show this season, which ended with the Cranberries' "Zombie" playing — perhaps symbolic of the season's "gender-bending zombie look," as the Los Angeles Times's Booth Moore put it. More details from the show here.
Wed, 09/30/09 — 11:19:15 AM
>> Brian Atwood to Leave Bally? —Despite a Bally spokesperson dismissing rumors of Brian Atwood departing the brand — "Brian is still the Creative Director for Bally. He is currently working on the next collection and, no, he is not leaving" — multiple sources say otherwise. Supposedly, the designer and label had been in negotiations, and he is expected to step down by the end of this year; he was informed of the decision a few days ago, according to one source, but plans to continue his eponymous line. [FWD]
Wed, 09/30/09 — 10:38:17 AM
>> Paris Fashion Week kicked off today, and guests are currently filtering into the Palais de Tokyo for Gareth Pugh's second outing at Paris Fashion Week — and his second major runway show in the city (last time around, he only did a video presentation). Sounds like he's foraying into hosting celebrities in his front row for the first time — Rihanna already arrived, wearing one of his striped LBDs, with Ellen von Unwerth, and Adrian Grenier and Michael Stipe have also been spotted. Daphne Guinness, Pugh's backer Michele Lamy and her husband Rick Owens, and Mario Testino all also in attendance.
Word from backstage is hair is being over to block the eyebrows, more details to come as the show starts momentarily.
Update 1: Karlie Kloss opens. [Next Models NYC Twitter]
Verdicts from Mario Testino, Daphne Guinness, and the general reaction »
RED Valentino
Comme des Garcons
CAFe'NOIR