Thakoon Spring 2009 Runway
Photos By: Amy Sussman
>> The Proenza Schouler Spring 2009 show hasn't even started yet — it's supposed to start at 5 PM, which means it will probably be 5:30 or 5:45 before the first girl even steps on the runway. Here's your chance to be Anna Wintour for a minute, and preview a piece of the collection before everyone else — except Anna, who has already seen it. She was scheduled to see it on Saturday, but since Hurricane Hanna blew through, she rescheduled. Exposed zippers, gloves, triangle-heeled shoes, they're all here.
We never knew Tracy Reese was such a fan of Coutorture's casting and styling choices but we swear she is taking inspiration from our photo editorial "The Only Oscar We Care About. " We put the then relatively unknown Nana Keita of Red Models in a purple Oscar De La Renta sequined frock in March as part of our shoot. And then we caught Nana storming the runways this Spring 2009 season (she closed Erin Fetherston). But the most interesting look she worked? Tracey cast Nana in her show wearing a purple sequined frock.
Somebody didn't get the memo on super skinny models it would appear, we can't say much about the clothing but we loved the morning after hair.
The hushed atmosphere at the Hammerstein Ballroom had an eerie quality as fashion's old guard (and precious few of the larger milieu) waited patiently for Isaac Mizrahi's first show outside of his studio for several seasons. An almost supernatural orange lighting suffused the room, casting unusual shadows on the crowd surrounding the rectangular runway. A string orchestra struck up a tune of chilling violins with a cicada like percussion section filling in the background. This unusually visceral experience set the tone of the most inspiring show we have seen this week. Geometric cuts, asymmetric and uneven tailoring and textured fabrics caught the eye as Isaac's trademark voluminous porportions were reinterpreted into his show's theme. Entitled "Swarm" garments had names like glitterpillars (a kind of sequined sparkling floor length gown) and shimmerfly.
Metamorphosis could have been an equally apt title as butterflies, moths, crickets, beetles, and pupas could be seen in the inspired construction. Puff dresses, harem pants, and unstructured jackets all caught our eye. And the bustles on the evening gown made us think of bumble bees
Our favorite outfit was a black coat cross layering that resembled a beetles wings combined with cigarette pants and a neon yellow top. Though the neon felt muted, in fact most of the color pallete had a kind of washed and worn feeling, even as they were clearly in the neon spectrum with pale greens and pinks being predominant.
An impressive, inspired, and haunting collection. One of reserve, ingenuiity and creativity that is a testament to imaginative dressing even in unsettled and eerie times.