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Posts for September 25th 2008

Saunders Shows A Perky Pollini
Runway

Saunders Shows A Perky Pollini

Scottish designer Joanthan Saunders is having a truly excellent Fall, his Target Go International collection will be hitting stores in October, his own Spring 2009 collection was a voluminous expansion of his usually tailored vision, and his first collection for Pollini was a pleasantly colorful and commercial interpretation of the brand.
by coutorture

Scottish designer Joanthan Saunders is having a truly excellent Fall, his Target Go International collection will be hitting stores in October, his own Spring 2009 collection was a voluminous expansion of his usually tailored vision, and his first collection for Pollini was a pleasantly colorful and commercial interpretation of the brand. Pollini's parent company, Aeffe, will no doubt be pleased to see just how well Saunders has been able to combine his own expertize in prints and tailoring with Pollini's rich history of vibrant hued design.

The collection was just a little more girlie than typical Saunders with frills, chiffon dresses and polka dots but it was in the graphic colorblock appeal of green and purple or orange and pink that we saw the designers personal style shine within the classic Pollini fair. We were impressed that Saunders strayed from his preference for sheen and bold bright colors, instead tempering the impact of the collection with more muted hues and even black and gray. This left us feeling the collection was solidly in touch with the preferences of today's consumers who may as it turns out be into Italian fashion for somewhat more prosaic reasons: it lasts.

Trend Report: Milan's Pool Party
Runway

Trend Report: Milan's Pool Party

Is there a new David Hockney exhibit in Italy that we don't know about because it sure seems like a lot of designers had cool chlorinated pool water on their mind for Spring 2009.
by coutorture
Trend Report: Milan's Pool Party

Is there a new David Hockney exhibit in Italy that we don't know about because it sure seems like a lot of designers had cool chlorinated pool water on their mind for Spring 2009. From Gucci, La Perla and Blumarine's deep tiled infinity edge pool blues to Moschino Cheap and Chic and Frankie Morello's Mexican resort aqua there was plenty of watery varieties. Even Burberry had a bit of the fake watering hole, we think it looks a bit like a gray Connecticut country estate pool that someone forgot to cover for October.

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Gucci's Collegiate Spring 2009 Bags
Gucci

Gucci's Collegiate Spring 2009 Bags

Frida Giannini has a knack for accessories having designed handbags for Gucci long before she landed the top job as Creative Director, so it is with interest that we note what the strong collegiate feel of Gucci's Spring 2009 bags.
by coutorture
Gucci's Collegiate Spring 2009 Bags

Frida Giannini has a knack for accessories having designed handbags for Gucci long before she landed the top job as Creative Director, so it is with interest that we note what the strong collegiate feel of Gucci's Spring 2009 bags. "It" bags may not be as strong a force as in the past but Gucci sets the tone for handbag trends in many seasons. The two main styles that draw the eye are the shoulder slung book bag and the leather backpack. Prada relaunched its entire house on the strength of a nylon black backpack so its by no means an unprecdented style. Perhaps this is another marker of the Fall tendency at work in Milan, or maybe Frida just felt being able to lug around a few books and a laptop is a more modern way to look at handbags.

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Fashion in 50 Seconds 9/25 with St. John, H&M, and Prada
H&M

Fashion in 50 Seconds 9/25 with St. John, H&M, and Prada

Two very interesting pieces of news from conservative St John's today that piqued our interest and have us wondering if in fact maybe they aren't so stodgy in their outlook after all.
by coutorture

Two very interesting pieces of news from conservative St John's today that piqued our interest and have us wondering if in fact maybe they aren't so stodgy in their outlook after all. We associate St. John's with our stepmother complete with chunky heels and big pearls so the fact that they are launching a new better contemporary line for resort called SoCa that is aimed at a younger customer (mind you their version of younger is targeting 35 to 55 year olds) and will operate separately from the brand’s signature label.

Even more interesting? St. John is launching a full-fledged social network integrated with an online designer brand store. CEO Glenn McMahon is either a complete genius for this or a total moron. We don't know a lot of 45 year olds that are big on the social networks but we love the idea of letting customers get closer to a genuine luxury brand. Take note Mr. Arnault.

This Scottish lass calls fashion a blight, really she just stops short of calling it Coutorture.

Skateboard culture is still with us and they are hard on the shoes. But they would rather keep buying new ones then have a pair that can't be destroyed. What no Kevlar guys?

Prada swears its not talking to Dubai investors. Right, and that postponed IPO means nothing either.

Though there is still M&A activity in the luxury sector, if you happen to have a yacht or watch company you want to unload. But the real opportunity is building up luxury empires in markets with an emerging ruling class. Let's hear it for capitalism guys, well except for when the risks of capitalism turn us socialism. That's just lame. Can't have it both ways guys. Or can you? Don't worry, the best part about buying luxury is that it lasts. So when that portfolio tanks at least you know your Jil Sander wasn't a depreciating asset. But hey if all else fails H&M is FINALLY bringing cheap fast fashion to the Champs Elysée. Did we mention the end is near? Parce que tu fait comme tu voulez aux Champs Elysees

 

Paris Ready to Wear Show Calendar Spring 2009
feature

Paris Ready to Wear Show Calendar Spring 2009

We aren't quite finished with Milan yet, in fact some of the best is yet to come with Versace, Pucci, Fendi and even Coutorture favorite Steinunn but for those of you looking for some details on what to expect in Paris we have the Ready to Wear Show Calender.
by coutorture

We aren't quite finished with Milan yet, in fact some of the best is yet to come with Versace, Pucci, Fendi and even Coutorture favorite Steinunn but for those of you looking for some details on what to expect in Paris we have the Ready to Wear Show Calender. Thanks to WWD

Saturday, Sept. 27
11 a.m.: Impasse de la Défense, Le Train Bleu, Salle Dorée, Place Louis Armand, 12th
Noon: Marie Bishara, Ecole du Louvre, Salle Imhotep, Porte Jaujard, Place du Carrousel, 1st
1 p.m.: Sirivannavari, Le Grand Hôtel Intercontinental, 2 Rue Scribe, 9th
3 p.m.: Ivanahelsinki, Showcase, Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs Elysées, 8th
4 p.m.: Kris Van Assche, 18 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 11th
5 p.m.: Gareth Pugh, Palais de Tokyo, 13 Avenue du Président Wilson, 16th
6 p.m.: Dévastée, Showcase, Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs Elysées, 8th
8 p.m.: Fatima Lopes, Les Folies Bergères, 32 Rue Richer, 9th

Sunday, Sept. 28
11 a.m.: Lie Sang Bong, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel, 1st
Noon: Anne Valérie Hash, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
12:30 p.m.: Zien, 57 Avenue Montaigne, 8th
1 p.m.: Cher Michel Klein, Le Grand Hôtel Intercontinental, 2 Rue Scribe, 9th
1:30 p.m.: Peachoo+Krejberg, Ateliers Weber Métaux, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
2 p.m.: Rajesh Pratap Singh, Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt, 9 Place des Vosges, 4th
3 p.m.: Balmain, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Castiglione, 1st
3:30 p.m.: Jasmin Santanen, Studio Harcourt, 10 Rue Jean Goujon, 8th
4 p.m.: Bruno Pieters, Maison des Métallos, Salle Noire, 94 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th
5 p.m.: Rick Owens, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Mélpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th
6 p.m.: Lutz, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
7 p.m.: Nina Ricci, Espace Eiffel, Quai Branly, 7th
8 p.m.: A.F. Vandevorst, Parking Turenne, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
9 p.m.: Bless, 81 Rue des Archives, 3rd

Monday, Sept. 29
10 a.m.: Atsuro Tayama, Musée Galliera, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16th
11 a.m.: Cacharel, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre, 1st
Noon: Gaspard Yurkievich, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
1 p.m.: Dice Kayek, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel, 1st
2:30 p.m.: Christian Dior, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st
3:30 p.m.: Isabel Marant, Espace Eiffel, Quai Branly, 7th
4:30 p.m.: Sharon Wauchob, Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 11 Avenue Albert de Mun, 16th
5 p.m.: Antonio Berardi, Espace Commines, 17 Rue Commines, 3rd
5:30 p.m.: Undercover, 22 Rue Marx Dormoy, 18th
6:30 p.m.: Maison Martin Margiela, Le 104, 5 Rue Curial, 19th
7:30 p.m.: Vivienne Westwood, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Mélpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th
8:30 p.m.: Yohji Yamamoto, Carreau du Temple, 3 Rue Dupetit Thouars, 3rd

Tuesday, Sept. 30
9 a.m.: Jeremy Scott, Elysée Montmartre, 72 Boulevard de Rochechouart, 18th
9:30 a.m.: Balenciaga, 15 Rue Cassette, 6th
10:30 a.m.: Junya Watanabe, Maison des Métallos, 94 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Salle Noir, 11th
11:30 a.m.: Tsumori Chisato, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
12:30 p.m.: Marithé & François Girbaud, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle de Nôtre, 1st
1:30 p.m.: Issey Miyake, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme, 1st
2:30 p.m.: Sophia Kokosalaki, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st
3:30 p.m.: Manish Arora, Cirque d’Hiver, 110 Rue Amelot, 11th
4:30 p.m.: Ann Demeulemeester, Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine, 6th
5:30 p.m.: Comme des Garçons, Maison des Métallos, 94 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Salle Blanche, 11th
7 p.m.: Jean Paul Gaultier, 325 Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd
8 p.m.: Véronique Branquinho, Parking Turenne, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
9 p.m.: Loewe, Les Folies Bergères, 32 Rue Richer, 9th

Wednesday, Oct. 1
10 a.m.: Karl Lagerfeld, Espace Eiffel, Quai Branly, 7th
11 a.m.: Andrew Gn, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel, 1st
Noon: Akris, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme, 1st
1 p.m.: Emanuel Ungaro, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre, 1st
2 p.m.: Costume National, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
3 p.m.: Dries Van Noten, Jardin du Palais Royal, Fontaines de Bury, accès par la Place Colette, 1st
4 p.m.: Christian Lacroix, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st
5 p.m.: Estrella Archs, Parking Turenne, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
6:30 p.m.: Givenchy, Carreau du Temple, 3 Rue Dupetit Thouars, 3rd
7:30 p.m.: Hussein Chalayan, POPB, Salle Marcel Cerdan, 8 Boulevard de Bercy, 12th
9 p.m.: Sonia Rykiel, Domaine National de Saint-Cloud

Thursday, Oct. 2
10 a.m.: Stella McCartney, Carreau du Temple, 3 Rue Dupetit Thouars, 3rd
11 a.m.: Léonard, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme, 1st
Noon: Barbara Bui, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre, 1st
1 p.m.: Guy Laroche, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
2 p.m.: Giambattista Valli, Espace Eiffel, Quai Branly, 7th
3 p.m.: Zucca, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Mélpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th
4:30 p.m.: Celine, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st
5:30 p.m.: Haider Ackermann, Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine, 6th
6:30 p.m.: Bernhard Willhelm, Parking Turenne, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
7:30 p.m.: Andrea Crews, Jeu de Paume, 1 Place de la Concorde, 8th
8 p.m.: Yves Saint Laurent, Grand Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, 8th

Friday, Oct. 3
9:30 a.m.: Requiem, Cercle de l’Union Interalliée, 33 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8th
10:30 a.m.: Chanel, Grand Palais, Avenue du Général Eisenhower, 8th
11:30 a.m.: Agnès b., Palais de Tokyo, 13 Avenue du Président Wilson, 16th
Noon: Fabrizio Capriata, Showcase, Pont Alexandre III, 8th
12:30 p.m.: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme, 1st
1:30 p.m.: Alena Akhmadullina, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
2:30 p.m.: Valentino, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st
3:30 p.m.: Junko Shimada, École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th
4:30 p.m.: Rue du Mail (by Martine Sitbon), Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine, 6th
5:30 p.m.: Commuun, Garage Turenne, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
6:30 p.m.: Vanessa Bruno, 8/10 Rue de la Pierre Levée, 11th
8 p.m.: Alexander McQueen, Le 104, 11 bis Rue Curial, 19th

Saturday, Oct. 4
9:30 a.m.: Talbot Runhof, Weber Métaux, 66 Rue de Turenne, 3rd
10:30 a.m.: Kenzo, Carreau du Temple, 3 Rue Dupetit Thouars, 3rd
11:30 a.m.: Elie Saab, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme, 1st
12:30 p.m.: Wunderkind, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
1:30 p.m.: Paul & Joe, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre, 1st
2:30 p.m.: Collette Dinnigan, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel, 1st
3:30 p.m.: Chloé, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st
4:30 p.m.: Martin Grant, École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th
5:30 p.m.: Hermès, Espace Eiffel, Quai Branly, 7th
6:30 p.m.: Limi Feu, Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th
8 p.m.: John Galliano, Atelier de la Villette, 6/8 Sente à Bigot, 19th

Sunday, Oct. 5
10:30 a.m.: Jefen, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot, 1st
11:30 a.m.: Chapurin, e Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme, 1st
12:30 p.m.: Shiatzy Chen, École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Salle Melpomène, 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th
2:30 p.m.: Louis Vuitton, see invitation
4 p.m.: Iwaya for Dress 33, Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 11 Avenue Albert de Mun, 16th
5 p.m.: Lavin, Espace Eiffel, Quai Branly, 7th
6 p.m.: Moon Young Hee, Palais Galliéra, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16th
7 p.m.: Miu Miu, see invitation