Posts for September 24th 2008

Bottega Veneta

Roman Holiday for Tomas Maier

Bottega Veneta has become something of an obsessive secret for the most discrete members of the luxury class thanks to Tomas Maier's design restraint.

Bottega Veneta has become something of an obsessive secret for the most discrete members of the luxury class thanks to Tomas Maier's design restraint. Except of course that secret has helped sales soar as a heretofore ignored class of fashion consumer, those who askew flash and logo, flocked to the label.

This may seem a strange comparison but Bottega Veneta is American Apparel for the rich. It is basic, understated, comfortable, and constantly updated for the times without sacrificing its inherent classicism. And whether you are hipster or socialite, artist or corporate titan, one needs beautiful basic Platonic ideal of clothing fashion. Add to that fact that Maier is from a class of designer's designers for whom less is more, a well placed dart here, a tricky seam there, and you have a brand that is enjoying a new golden age. Perhaps this subliminally inspired Meier's Spring 2009 collection as the tawny, coppery and yes golden tones of the collection evoked a kind of rich Roman Holiday inspired pastoral life of simple beauty. Given that Rome has given us so much of our classical ideals of beauty we can only say well played.

On another note, do not forget that Rome is also home to some of our most perverse political machinations. That Machiavellian playbook is very much in effect at these Italian fashion houses now that Patrizio Di Marco, Boettga's former CEO is taking over Gucci from Mark Lee. We would like to know what internal Brutus sacrificed the extremely capable Lee. And we can only hope there is not a Brutus lurking for Meier. It would be a shame to lose this kind of genius for some political animals ambitions like we have lost Lee.

 

Shoes

A Closer Look at Sigerson Morrison's Collaboration with Pringle of Scotland

Fans of Sigerson Morrison got good news yesterday when it was revealed that Pringle of Scotland had collaborated with the Nolita shoe house for Spring 2009.
A Closer Look at Sigerson Morrison's Collaboration with Pringle of Scotland

Fans of Sigerson Morrison got good news yesterday when it was revealed that Pringle of Scotland had collaborated with the Nolita shoe house for Spring 2009. While plenty of sketches made their way around the internet we thought it might be nice to give everyone a closer look at the line which we can safely predict will be quite the hit. We already want a pair in cream.

Prada

Paper Mâché Prada

Given how model Yulia Kharlapanova crumpled to the floor thanks Prada's newest hit shoe it seems little surprise that mussed, fussed, and otherwise wrinkled clothing carried the show.

Given how model Yulia Kharlapanova crumpled to the floor thanks Prada's newest hit shoe it seems little surprise that mussed, fussed, and otherwise wrinkled clothing carried the show. The dueling ideals of fetishistic perfection towering on impossible heels fighting against a frumpy vision of unironed womanhood set the tone of Prada's conflicted vision of sexual womanhood in Spring 2009.

But we weren't sold on this dichomety as an original comment. It has always been the hallmark of Marni to combine these opposed views of womanhood, indeed it is one prime reason Marni is so popular with older and intellectual women, a clientele all too familiar with balancing sexual powers with wilting crumpled realities. While Miuccia Prada told Suzy Menkes that this collection was about a return to the primitive we perhaps wonder if it wasn't so far back but simply return to well worn themes of how to define womanhood.

And in the end Miuccia has many collections to produce each year and this struggle of womanhood can be reinterpreted for seasons to come. The show end with golden wrinkled cocktail frocks did seem "of the moment" as of fashion's best consumers, the finance community, watched the end of their own golden eras. Perhaps it is a good thing Prada's IPO has been delayed.

Mary-Kate Olsen

Fashion in 50 Seconds 9/24 with Alberta Ferretti, Steve Madden, and Calvin Klein

Alberta Ferretti is counting on California with a 4,500-square-foot space on Melrose Avenue that will house the designer's entire set of lines.

Alberta Ferretti is counting on California with a 4,500-square-foot space on Melrose Avenue that will house the designer's entire set of lines. It carries the Alberta Ferretti collection, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, accessories, footwear and Alberta Ferretti Girl. And in a reverse commute of Ferretti's, Michael Kor's opens a boutique in Milan

Elizabeth and James, the surprisingly decent brainchild of fashion tots Ashley and Mary Kate Olsen, is branching out into footwear. Sadly they have struck a deal with Steven Madden Ltd to do the line.

The Guardian has a delightful round up of 50 years of Milan Fashion.

Wearable technology. Still trying to make that happen.

The winners of the Make Your Mark in Fashion competition in Britain, Mia, used second hand clothing sourced in Malawi to create new fashions. Awww yay!

Because its totally possible to transcend the unhip essence of tying a noose around your neck by with ironic names and edgy designers. Might we suggest that really being cool means owning your own style not going garishly over the top?

Calvin Klein still believes that talent and hard work are what make you a success in fashion. Really? Tell that to the political animals over at Gucci Group huh?