Posts for September 24th 2008

Gucci

Frida Giannini's Spring 2009 Collection: For Gucci or Zara?

>> If Frida Giannini is good at one thing, it's selling clothes, and bags, and shoes, and accessories.  The attendees of her Spring 2009 Gucci show will admit that she's a "master merchandiser," but another, perhaps less flattering, comparison for her collection kept coming up — Zara.

>> If Frida Giannini is good at one thing, it's selling clothes, and bags, and shoes, and accessories.  The attendees of her Spring 2009 Gucci show will admit that she's a "master merchandiser," but another, perhaps less flattering, comparison for her collection kept coming up — Zara.

Those reviewing express disdain for Frida's blatant merchandising — at WWD: "Gucci looks are all over Zara. The argument that they seem more appropriate to such a venue than to the upper echelons of luxury fashion hasn’t put a damper on sales of the real thing, even in the United States, where everyone knows that almost nothing is selling."  At The Wall Street Journal: "Not every designer puts such an array of products on the catwalk, even though they will appear in stores. At first glance, there was nothing much about either the fabrics or silhouettes of the clothes that would make them stand out from fast-fashion imitators [Zara and H&M]."

Even Cathy Horyn of The New York Times said her piece: "Apart from the updated Jackie bags and chunky stone bracelets, how luxurious was it? The olive and khaki safari dresses, with zips and drawstrings, were cute and well-executed. But are they a look you expect from Gucci, or Liz Claiborne?" Some food for thought.
*image: source

Mary-Kate Olsen

>> IN PRODUCTION —Steven Madden scored a coup today, signing to do shoes for Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's contemporary brand Elizabeth and James starting in mid-2009.  The pairing may seem unexpected, but the Olsens, who are rapidly expanding into accessories for the label, will remain creative directors of the footwear collection — whether the shoes will have Balenciaga or Givenchy influence remains to be seen.  Oh, and speaking of Olsens, Mary-Kate just arrived in Milan today — is there a Fashion Week appearance in the cards?

>> IN PRODUCTION —Steven Madden scored a coup today, signing to do shoes for Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's contemporary brand Elizabeth and James starting in mid-2009.  The pairing may seem unexpected, but the Olsens, who are rapidly expanding into accessories for the label, will remain creative directors of the footwear collection — whether the shoes will have Balenciaga or Givenchy influence remains to be seen.  Oh, and speaking of Olsens, Mary-Kate just arrived in Milan today — is there a Fashion Week appearance in the cards? [WWD, PopSugar]

Milan Fashion Week

Jonathan Saunders's First Pollini Collection: The Reviews Are In

>> Jonathan Saunders used colors aplenty and frothy, full skirts in his namesake Spring 2009 collection, and there was more where that came from for his first outing at Pollini.  Complemented by Nicholas Kirkwood's minibags and high heels for the brand, Saunders sent out 27 looks that kept the press interested.

>> Jonathan Saunders used colors aplenty and frothy, full skirts in his namesake Spring 2009 collection, and there was more where that came from for his first outing at Pollini.  Complemented by Nicholas Kirkwood's minibags and high heels for the brand, Saunders sent out 27 looks that kept the press interested.

WWD raved: "a promising start of pretty clothes with plenty of commercial appeal"; Vogue UK wholeheartedly approved: "[Pollini] built its reputation on strong colour and prints — and Saunders proved today that he was without doubt the best choice to embrace that history"; and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also saw good in the match: "slimmer tailoring, still with graphic patterns, was a less dynamic take and jersey dresses were too complex in their asymmetry. But this was a clear start for Saunders."  Now just one important thing remains to be seen — can the collection sell (to editors and consumers)?

Gucci

Frida is Finally Swimming at Gucci

The running joke for several seasons now among some of our Gucci sources has been "wait till cruise" or "don't worry, cruise is going to be great;" now keep in mind they've been saying this even after cruise and you get some idea just how people in the know have felt about Frida Giannini's ready to wear skills.

The running joke for several seasons now among some of our Gucci sources has been "wait till cruise" or "don't worry, cruise is going to be great;" now keep in mind they've been saying this even after cruise and you get some idea just how people in the know have felt about Frida Giannini's ready to wear skills.

Frida has top notch accessories credentials, no doubt about it, and your editor has a few fine pairs of shoes and one beloved bag that are a testament to the house's continued success in that arena. But let's face it, Frida's ready to wear collections have been lacking. Unfocused, derivative, confusing, and not of the moment are just a few descriptors.

But her Spring 2009 collection seems to be the "cruise" show we've all been waiting for. It maintained a kind of classic Gucci fluidity while heightening the experience with a kind of edited polish we hadn't yet seen from Giannini. The color palette is immensely appealing with its regal purples and of course perfect pool blues, improved not only by the clothing but with the makeup's aqua eyes. Blousey dresses, caftans, a few crisp separates in a safari theme (that miraculously didn't seem stale) and plenty of well styled accessories all made for her best collection to date.

The really tragic thing is that it's happening just as CEO Mark Lee is stepping down. Italian Machiavellian schemes are surely in play as American executives have been dropping like flies at the house for some time. But whose power play is it?

Prada

Coutorture Community Must Reads 9/24: The Community on Prada SS09

The biggest subject of buzz around Coutorture's corner of the fashion blogosphere today was just how amazing and/or awful the shoes were at Prada's Spring 2009 show with bloggers researching every possible angle of the now infamous footwear.

The biggest subject of buzz around Coutorture's corner of the fashion blogosphere today was just how amazing and/or awful the shoes were at Prada's Spring 2009 show with bloggers researching every possible angle of the now infamous footwear.

Shoewawa was first on the scene, Shoeblog had an impressive play by play of the offending/inspiring footwear and noted the shoe cover connection, Hip Candy pointed us to an ankle twisting photo that made is grimace, Fassonaburu even had a video of Yulia Kharlapanova falling, and Fashion Copius rounds up quotes and backstage anecdotes on the show and its already infamous shoes.

And in case you want to read about something else besides Prada, Fashion Fillers is on the hunt for the perfect pair of boots. A journey we wish her luck on as it took us a decade and $400 to get ours (and that was a 50% discount). Denimology talks about My Lovely Jean's new retailer TopShop. And finally it turns out that Alber Elbaz has a thing for colored pencils. No really, Chic and Untroubled points us to a limited edition color pencil box called "20 Years of Supracolor by Alber."

 

Burberry

>> THE MODELIZER —When Rosie Huntington-Whiteley replaced Agyness Deyn in the Fall 2008 Burberry ads earlier this year, some viewed it as a personal affront to Agy, since she and Christopher Bailey are known to be good friends.  But all seems to be well on the Agy-Bailey front: She flew into Milan earlier this week just to walk for Burberry on Monday, and was already back in New York again yesterday.

>> THE MODELIZER —When Rosie Huntington-Whiteley replaced Agyness Deyn in the Fall 2008 Burberry ads earlier this year, some viewed it as a personal affront to Agy, since she and Christopher Bailey are known to be good friends.  But all seems to be well on the Agy-Bailey front: She flew into Milan earlier this week just to walk for Burberry on Monday, and was already back in New York again yesterday. Will we see her in Paris?  Only time will tell . . . [Fashionista]

Runway

Trend Report Milan Falls for Spring 2009

Because we can't go a day without mentioning some kind of pending Armageddon (usually financial) today we highlight how the season-less parade of consumption that is the fashion week has finally abandoned traditional constraints of spring versus fall garb now that global warming has killed climates.
Trend Report Milan Falls for Spring 2009

Because we can't go a day without mentioning some kind of pending Armageddon (usually financial) today we highlight how the season-less parade of consumption that is the fashion week has finally abandoned traditional constraints of spring versus fall garb now that global warming has killed climates. Thus collections from Missoni, Frankie Morello, Burberry, Prada, Etro, Aquilano and Rimondi, and Bottega Veneta were a little more autumnal than usual for a spring collection. Well, the coldest winter our creative director ever spent was a summer in San Francisco. Though that was more gray so Burberry is the way to go in that case.

Milan Fashion Week

New Jil Sander Earrings Spear Some Attention

>> Everyone came away from Jil Sander yesterday gushing about the fringe and the new jewelry collaboration with Damiani, so a closer look at the latter was in order.  The earrings (there are also bracelets) are well worth the attention they're garnering — thin gold spears with diamonds or semiprecious stones attached at either end, worn in just one ear, or both ears, as you please.*image: source
New Jil Sander Earrings Spear Some Attention

>> Everyone came away from Jil Sander yesterday gushing about the fringe and the new jewelry collaboration with Damiani, so a closer look at the latter was in order.  The earrings (there are also bracelets) are well worth the attention they're garnering — thin gold spears with diamonds or semiprecious stones attached at either end, worn in just one ear, or both ears, as you please.
*image: source