Posts for September 23rd 2008
In some perverse reversal of the Spaghetti Western tradition (cheap American cowboy films made in Italy) Golden Goose takes an American product, makes it in Italy and gives us a much more expensive product. We think Italian duo Francesca and Alessandro Gallo have made the perfect boot for our cowboy President. They go perfectly with 700 billion dollar rescue packages for Wall Street. Lonesome cowboy indeed.
Christopher Bailey must really enjoy a rainy spring day as Burberry's Spring 2009 collection had a color palette as chipper as a raincloud. Gray frocks, gray pants, gray jackets, gray hats, even gray socks made us feel as if we were in some very glamorous Charles Dickens novel. Oliver Twist and some terrible porridge were not far from our mind. If it weren't for the bits of yellow here and there and a bit of dusty pink we might have despaired that this spring collection would ever lead us to summer.
And yet we simply loved the collection. Tough mix and match separates, slouchy silhouettes (but not too loosey goosey) and some fantastic accessories make this the best merchandised collection of Milan. The exotic leather squares that made up the necklaces on so many of the looks were a particular favorite and sure to be in every editorial round up of best spring accessories.
Bailey is clearly channeling some sort of drab climate, whether its physical or economic, and that acknowledgement of the situation is sure to make consumers feel understood. And that kind of understanding leads to the loosening of purse strings because after all Burberry knows things are tight, that we are sad, that we can't get it up for something frivolous. But spending on drab basics is totally OK even in the worst of times. Which makes this collection the best of times.
We might be in danger of playing favorites with Charles Nolan but its hard not to get caught up in the enthusiasm the entire house has for the line and the women that wear it. Visiting Charles' booth at Coterie is a perfect example of why a runway show is never enough to get a feel for a collection. You have to get up close and personal. Thankfully Charles' friendly sales team let gush over the Spring 2009 offerings. Because really what woman wouldn't want to own every single one of his crisp white shirts?
Last night was opening night for the Metropolitan Opera in New York City and star Renée Fleming wore Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld, and John Galliano. The She even has a fragrance, handed out to concert goers, called La Voce by Renée Fleming which benefits the Met. Populism and opera may be a concept we can get behind.
Alice Temperely has given birth to a son Fox London Temperley von Bennigsen Mackiewicz just five days after her Spring 2009 show. Fox, the first child for Temperley and her husband Lars von Bennigsen, was born in London at 9am on Saturday, September 20.
Louis Vuitton seems to have quite the sense of humour with their "core values" campaign. First it was former Mikhail Gorbachev Russian president now its men who pretend to spy on the Russians. Sean Connery may have just sat for Annie Leibovitz. We suppose Ian Fleming's version of James Bond would be very into nice luggage as an idea. In other strange combinations news Sonic Youth's bassist Kim Gordon is making a line for hip moms. May be kindly suggest they check out Kirna Zabete newly launched ecommerce site? They are the only store to sell Lanvin online!
Coach Inc.’s president and executive creative director Reed Krakoff outearned his boss Lew Frankfort by a two to one margin. Let's here it for well paid creatives. Perry Ellis and C&C California are adding swimwear. Times are tough for weavers, textile manufacturers at Milano Unicaare concerned about the weak dollar.Gap has purchased Athlete for $150 million
Its beginning to look a lot like Christmas. A gloomy one.
Macy's is getting behind Rwanda's basket weavers with a partnership to help sell their products with a program called "Path to Peace Baskets". Paul Kagame, the first democratically elected president of Rwanada, in town for UN General Assembly Meetings attended a reception to celebrate the event on Monday.
While much of our coverage privileges runway during show season, we are not entirely inured to the allure of the fashion party, thus with the help of eLuxury, we decided to treat our readers on a behind the scenes look at the fundamentals of throwing a fashion week bash.
eLuxury, under the new leadership of David Asher, threw its hat into the Fashion Week fray this season with a party at 60 Thompson on the evening of September 11th. Taking over the rooftop of the hotel (hauntingly lit by the glow of the lights emanating from Ground Zero) as well the a VIP section of Thom Bar, the party was an opportunity for the New York fashion community to meet the new CEO and become more familiar with the San Francisco based, LVMH owned, luxury ecommerce retailer.
And meet and greet we did, as your editors bumped into the new CEO right off the bat in the elevator, where the bare-chested Galliano-esque creative gamely discussed his activities for the evening. Clearly it was to be a rockstar agenda with fun as the main activity, though closely followed it would seem by inebriation. In fact, when we asked David on our way out, only jokingly, about the ROI of the gift bags, he told us "You are too mathematical. It's not about the ROI! It's about the FOI. Fun on investment."
That sentiment, while perhaps not deeply reassuring to shareholders given our extremely precarious financial times, is certainly part and parcel of the fashion party experience. To mix a few telling historical references, in an age and industry of Babylonian excess, why not fiddle while Rome burns? Here Sarah Logan, Director of Merchandising for eLuxury, fields our questions on just what makes a fashion party tick and how to make it fun.
Coutorture: What is the purpose of throwing a party at fashion week?
Sarah Logan:To bring people together to discuss ideas, inspirations, and experiences. Fashion week is the ideal time to capture that energy.
C: How do you judge if an event was a success?
S: If there are a lot of laughs, smiles, and animated conversation. The more of all of the three things mentioned; the better the party.
C: How do you craft a guest list. Who do you hope to attract? Whom do you hope to avoid?
S: You hope that every guest will come away with a new friend, a new notion, or a new intention. It is always best to avoid the dramatic.
What goes into planning the event?
S: Commitment, belief, and purpose. Most importantly, providing guests with a few hours of pure revelry.
C: What are some of the critical decisions?
S: Location is key. Guests need to feel welcome and comfortable enough to linger and mingle. Dom Perignon always helps.
C: How do you choose a menu?
S: Cocktail menus need to be party attire friendly, and need to consider a range of eating habits. It is always best to plan for more food and drink than you think is needed.
C: What about drink sponsors?
S: We have the luxury of being affiliated with LVMH, so our offering included Dom Perignon, Chopin, and Ruinart Rose Champagne. And since we are based in San Francisco, we felt it appropriate to fly in a resident Bar Chef to mix an exclusive eLUXURY.com cocktail- the "eLUXIR."
C: Why is eLuxury throwing their hat into the fashion week party fray?
S: Since we are based in San Francisco, we thought fashion week in New York would be the perfect venue for welcoming our friends on the opposite coast.
C: Is this a new marketing direction for eLuxury?
S: We always strive to offer our customers and audience with the best possible experience, so our marketing strategy remains true to that initial philosophy. Increasing presence and exposure is a key factor in that vision.
C: How does a party translate into sales? Or does it?
S: Hopefully a guest will leave feeling pampered and exhilarated. A happy shopper is a loyal shopper.