Milan Fashion Week Ermanno Scervino Spring 2009 Images by Christophe Simon
Posts for September 22nd 2008
With the first two days of Milan Fashion Week's Womenswear Spring 2009 collections behind us an unfortunate pattern of subdued sobriety is already making itself known on a few unexpected catwalks. Milan has always been a two sided coin, balancing the best in tailored craftsmanship with decidedly flashy (and occasionally trashy) overabundant dressing. It always seemed fitting that Italian fashion gave life to Roman god Janus' dual natures.
The trouble with this picture is that we don't need the calm sobriety of a Jil Sander in a Just Cavalli or a Moschino Cheap and Chic. If we want severe dressing we will go straight to the source. Milan's boldest and brightest exist for a reason and they serve legions of luxury's most amusing from investment banker girlfriends to Russian oil oligarch mistresses.
But Janus is also the god of beginnings and endings. The 90s glamazon head days are officially over even as we pretended at its resurgence for a few seasons of the aughts. There is no more outlandish bottles and models Euro-trash let's get sick and slick culture to look forward to anymore. Even the banks have closed. And so we begin a new age of sobriety with no clear end in sight. Its just a shame that the Italians had to bring it home so hard.
Milan Fashion Week C'N'C Costume National Spring 2009 Photos by Vittorio Zunino Celotto
Los Angeles based Suh-Tahn was founded in 2005 by partners Shannon Nataf and Dimitry Tcharfas who together have designed a line layered with meaning. Dark and brooding yet organic and light, the line lives up to its nuanced name. "Soutane" means scared robe in french, "suh" a feminine adjective from sanskrit and arabic means light or star, and "tahn" a masculine adjective is rooted in the Greek word thanatos or darkness. The constant tension serves the duo's work well as their Spring 2009 had a visceral impact on your editors that literally halted us in our steps.
Mara Hoffman has been a popular Google search term for Coutorture since New York Fashion Week so we knew we had to get up close and personal with the line at Coterie. Her Spring 2009 collection has all the hallmarks that made the designer such a popular choice for laid back creative women everywhere. Easy to wear loose long dresses in big patterns, lots of nearly nudes, and a few separates here and there made up the collection. But the real value? Her incredible textiles. This is is clothing that feels good.