Milan Fashion Week Emporio Armani Spring 2009 Photos by D. Venturelli
Posts for September 22nd 2008
>> Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had a tall order to fill for Spring 2009. Before Gianfranco Ferre passed in 2007, his architectural-based label had ceased to become relevent — as Cathy Horyn put it, "It’s been a while since anyone [has] paid serious attention to the Ferre name." So could the newly tapped designers bring it back to the forefront?
The general consensus says yes. Nicole Phelps of Style.com was pleased: "They deserve high marks for this outing." Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, a Aquilano-Rimondi fan, loved the effort, with one caveat: "The designers distilled the essence of Ferre in a new, eye-catching way. Now to just refine the elements a bit more . . . " WWD felt the same: "Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint."
Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also echoed the same sentiment: "Not all the Ferré collection was approachable. Yet . . . the two designers created the clothes and the buzz that will bring fashion life back to Ferré." With another season under their belts, Aquilano and Rimondi could definitely hit the right stride at Ferre.
>> BLOWING THE COVER —Christy Turlington licks her lips on the October 2008 Vogue Paris cover because she knows how delicious the magazine's innards are: Lakshmi Menon makes her debut in some insane stilt-like shoes, sharing editorial space with Yasmin Warsame in "Afro-disiaque." [Models.com Daily Feed]
Jewerly designer Amrita Singh has tapped into an accessories moment with her talent for creating unique stacking bangles. Scores of idle, and incredibly chic women, weigh down their slim arms with Amrita's many options from enamel to wood. We checked in on her offerings at Coterie and got a bit overwhelmed by all the colors on display. Thankfully someone else had already done the choosing for us when it came to her Bangle Bangle line as they were in the gift bag at the eLuxury party. In which case maybe we can do an ROI calculation on the gift bags as we just wrote up the designer. And now we link you to eLuxury's selection.
>> Milan is not good to Andre Leon Talley. Two years ago, his luggage was lost for three days during Milan Fashion Week, and he was stuck wearing the same blue Patent Miu Miu coat and velour track pants to the shows. Fast forward to today, and it's the same deal with Milan Fashion Week. His luggage was lost, and he had to wear the same Juicy Couture shorts and gray Ralph Lauren polo shirt to D&G this morning that he wore on the plane.
But ALT isn't the only one having issues with Milan: A Continental flight out of Newark filled with a bevy of editors — Vogue’s fashion market and accessories director Virginia Smith and senior accessories editor Filipa Fino, W’s fashion director Alex White, and New York magazine’s fashion director Harriet Mays Powell — experienced engine failure and was rerouted to Maine last night. They all made it safely back to Newark, but most are still looking for a new flight to Milan . . .
>> THE MODELIZER —Kate Moss and Jamie Hince have broken it off once again, and this time it's said to be for good. Rumors began after Kate and Jamie accepted front row seats for Naomi Campbell's Fashion for Relief show last week, but neither showed up. The two, who have been together on and off since last September, split last Monday after "a huge argument" about "Kate’s non-stop party lifestyle." [Daily Mail]
London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2009.
If New York Fashion Week was slyly playing peak a boob then Milan has practically gone for the full on trench coat flasher with the way sheer is making a statement. We can only hope this mammary mania (sorry we just can't help ourselves with the puns) is the first inklings that fashion's banishment of the bosom is finally over. This isn't to say we saw a lot of large tits, but at least we were being presented with the idea of a nipple.
Ennio Capasa at C'N'C Costume National made hay with an entire collection of nearly transparent numbers from sheer dresses to lacey see-through leggings. He really wasn't kidding when he referenced x-ray specs in his run of show notes though to his credit he did unclude under garments. Not the case with Enrico Coveri showed white shirts that might just work for the office that is if your coworkers were amenable to areolas. Ermannno Scervino showed a one shouldered black sweater that might not be ideal for anything but lounge wear. Though we suppose we do know a few very understanding cocktail lounges.
May we posit that hinting and suggesting have replaced the outlandish in Milan's dual culture of flash versus frump? We don't know what it means and we can't think of how to tie it into the recession but we suppose this counts for toned down for Milan somehow. Just wait till the Italians become like the London lads at at Man and start showing us men's nipples!
London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2009.