London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2009.
Posts for September 15th 2008
>> Being known as a protege of Francisco Costa doesn't hurt — especially when you're showing your first-ever collection. Julian Louie's fifteen sculptural pieces reeled in the likes of Kate Lanphear and Hamish Bowles last week — and they left with glimmers in their eyes, mirroring those of the Swarovski crystals embedded on Julian's dresses. The bright colors, innovative fabrics (neoprene!), and cocoon shapes reminded me of something that would appear at London rather than New York Fashion Week — even a touch of Christopher Kane's first collection — but nevermind, I'm glad to have a talent like his stateside.
>> THE MODELIZER —Oddly, even though Daisy Lowe and Mark Ronson were seen everywhere at New York Fashion Week together — working his sister Charlotte Ronson's show, front row at Diesel — they split in New York. No reasons were given for the parting of ways, but Daisy is now in London to carry on the Fashion Week craze. [People]
Earlier this evening we stopped by the Reem presentation, arranged as part of the On/Off shows this season. It was the walk-around arrangement, where mannequins wearing the collection and ordinary people with champagne flutes intertwined. The clothing was stunning up close--a perfect example of what constitutes a presentation-worthy aesthetic. The embroidered neckpieces reminded us a little of something we might see from New York's Subversive Jewelry and, when sequins and lace and ribbon mixed together in a vaguely military way, we thought back to Givenchy Fall 08 which had a similar palette and mixing of appliques. The combination of battered canvas or light cotton with intricate, more formal, textures (i.e. lace, feathers, sequins) are what made this collection very special and very now. Ever since Proenza Schouler Fall 08, the lose, layered textures have been in full swing.
>> When Fashion Week comes a-knockin', we all get caught up in the parade of clothes, shoes, and handbags . . . but sometimes we forget to keep an eye on the jewelry, too. It's important to note — especially this season, when the bigger the jewelry, the better — and two fledgling designers have really emerged as ones to watch: Eddie Borgo, 30, and Pamela Love, 26.
They're both well-connected: Eddie dates stylist Keegan Singh, Pamela shares a workspace with Julia Restoin-Roitfeld. Pamela is best known for her clawed cuffs that ended up in the Fall 2008 Gap ads, while Eddie just two weeks ago announced his namesake line. The two were tapped to collaborate on pieces for Marchesa's Spring 2009 collection, and were snapped together last week at 3.1 Phillip Lim, for which Eddie created stained glass stunners. For the record, he also worked with Jen Kao, Staerk, and Frank Tell on their Spring 2009 collections — but what a pair, these two.
*image: source, source, source
Much like in New York, London Fashion Week not only means dozens of runway shows every day but also the arrival of a whole mess of trade shows. It is the Spring 09 season for everyone remember, and just because a designer or brand does not show during Fashion Week doesn't mean they didn't design a collection that buyers will need to see. Because buyers come from all walks of retail life, and because there are only so many hours in the day, trade shows necessarily organize themselves. In New York, that means the illustrious water views of Coterie and for many fashion people (who may or may not have braved the Fashion Week storm) the event comes and goes quietly. Now, it is something we can see both sides of, the idea of whether or not a trade show should be made into a big fashion spectacle but, because we are officially (gasp) the press, we have to say we like seeing them covered.
So...today we walked into the "tents" to pick up our Exhibition pass and realized we were walking into one massive trade show. You see, New York Fashion Week had us so frazzled that we failed to put it all together--or at least the scale of it. Pop up cafes and champagne bars, multiple floors of booths divided by accessories and ready to wear made up this wholesale behemoth and though we thoroughly regretted the decision to wear heels by the end of it, fashion we did absorb. Our favorite booths were part of The British Fashion Council's New Gen group, sponsored by Tophshop. Between Felder Felder (who showed today), House of Holland, and Sandra Backlund there are quite a few names The New Gen can count on for street cred. It seems a shame to see such talented designers forced to show their collection on a rolling rack rather than a runway but alas, maybe the New Gen and Exhibition will change all that.
Its all just a case of history repeating, some is fashion, some is fad, some is good, some is bad and now we are going to stop quoting lyrics at you. Except that for Spring 2009 we feel so Bohemian Like You. If next season is going to be yet another summer of love (because who has the money but do anything but hang in the park?) then Diane Von Furstenberg, Sabyasachi, Mara Hoffman, Chris Han, Vera Wang, Nicole Miller, Ann Sui, Marc Jacobs, Rosa Cha, Catherine Holstein, Rebecca Taylor, and Matthew Williamson all have suitably happy hippy, magpie, flouncey outfits to get you started.
>> INSIDER WIRE —Models come come out of photoshoots with clothes, a paycheck . . . or worst case, nothing. But when they work with Ryan McGinley, they're at least guaranteed one thing — a necklace, just like his own, with a gold pendant that reads "Let's get naked." "I give them to all my models after they are done modeling for me . . . and it has my name written on script in the back." [Word Up!]