Posts for August 2008

summer

Last White Weekend

We slept without the air conditioner last night.

We slept without the air conditioner last night. The eerie quiet of our loft that made it nearly impossible to sleep leaving us in a daze of transitional tossing and turning. More than any other sign, this is the one we use to gauge the end of summer as the subtle shifts in atmosphere precipitate our own internal changes, be there physical or spiritual. And while its been a good summer in the city, we are beginning to feel the Michaelmas transition.

But to cling is human and the Zen of transition is not strong in many of us. Thus this Labor Day, for us the last weekend of summer, is a critical marker for a certain kind of fashionistas. The traditional rules of white reach their last viable wear date come Monday. No more white frocks can grace your tanned frame and white sandals and pumps must be lovingly stored until next May. Sure, plenty of people continue to wear white past these expiration dates. But too often it feels forced, like a faked fashion trend or over done styling. Cruise gives us a second chance and yes we relish trips to Miami, but really our grandmothers may just be right that this is our last chance. And so we celebrate the the last white weekend with airy frocks and the best of this summer's shoes. May you spill BBQ sauce on them come Monday!

Tom Ford

Fashion in 50 Seconds 8/29

Nina Ricci has reopened its Paris store on Avenue Montaige after a 6th month renovation.

Nina Ricci has reopened its Paris store on Avenue Montaige after a 6th month renovation. Olivier Theyskens' new gray cozy interior has contributed to daily sales tallies roughly triple that of last year.

Short Starbucks lines seem like a good thing until you realize that no one is shopping. The deserted Vegas Starbucks is given as evidence that things are unusually subdued at Magic Marketplace

Japan Fashion Week, which runs September 1st through the 5th, is a challenge for Japanese designers.

Stefano Pilati faults
Tom Ford for giving women what they want. We are torn on this opinion.

Sallie Underwood Baker, fashion collector, one cool broad, has passed away

Canadians need a little extra insulation to keep warm in their frigid winters. Or at least that is the sense we get considering the outcry over Quebec retailer La Maison's use of overly skinny models. The catalog has been recalled and everyone is happy again.


The Venice Film Festival debuted Valentino: The Last Emperor.
While the title references the famed designers it is really about "the deeply rooted, inspirational and unique union between Valentino and Giammetti."

Beauty

Coutorture Community's Morning Must Reads 8/29

One of the greatest privileges our Network Partners have is the ability to keep learning.

One of the greatest privileges our Network Partners have is the ability to keep learning. They continue their education by learning from experts and they share that with you in today's Must Read posts from: It's interesting to see how different people interpret trends differently. Fashion Pad picks up her hot trend for Fall, and it just so happens to be plaid. When you are in the presence of a truly talented individual, it's best to soak up all the knowledge possible. That is exactly what The Beauty of Life did when she attended an event where makeup artist Dina Gregg was demonstrating. Buttons are a finding that often gets used in uncommon ways other than the purpose for which it was originally intended. Fashion Nation encountered a pair of flats decorated with buttons, and they just couldn't resist. Slam X Hype discovers a jewelry line that combines meta and leather to create very interesting pieces. Surface to Air uses iconography such as skulls and rosary beads to tell a story. Sometimes a design is so unique or unusual that it can be difficult to determine exactly how you feel about it. What's Haute needs a bit of reader help determining if the Maloles Andrea Clutch is haute or not.

bits and baubles

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Actrice?

»Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Karen Elson, and Sarah Sophie Flicker act in a short film for Wren that debuts next Thursday [Style File] »Which new models are creating the most casting buzz?

»Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Karen Elson, and Sarah Sophie Flicker act in a short film for Wren that debuts next Thursday [Style File]

»Which new models are creating the most casting buzz? [TI]

»Instead of farming out its production to cheap foreign labor, Mulberry is made by a young British "iPod-listening" workforce [Racked]

»Wilhemina Models is going public — marking the first agency to ever do such a thing [Forbes]

»Michael Kors's Project Runway fame has translated into five percent of his company's gross [NY Times]

»Style.com is launching a runway-to-iPhone application for fashion week [The Pipeline]

»Why has Erin Fetherston partnered with a cookie company? [Fashionista]

»Viktoriya Sasonkina's September 2008 Vogue Italia cover was inspired by Bette Davis [Women Management Blog]

»Chloe Sevigny, Agyness Deyn to host Christie's art preview; Andre Leon Talley is feting Jennifer Hudson [FWD, FWD]

»A peek into the home of Teen Vogue senior fashion editor Aya Kanai [The Selby]

Gap

>> INSIDER WIRE —The tents are already going up at Bryant Park, and fashion week is only a week away — so what is there to look forward to for Spring 2009?

>> INSIDER WIRE —The tents are already going up at Bryant Park, and fashion week is only a week away — so what is there to look forward to for Spring 2009? Rodarte switching from Christian Louboutin to Nicholas Kirkwood for their runway heels, Alexander Wang flying Alice Dellal in to co-host his after-party, Colette's pop-up store by Gap, a potential Ana Claudia Michels comeback, plus a whole bevy of new designers — including a ten year Alaia alum. [Style.com]

Natalia Vodianova

Valentino's True Colors Fly in Venice

>> Today, Valentino: The Last Emperor, Matt Tyrnauer's fly-on-the-wall documentary that follows the designer from June 2005 to June 2007, debuted at the Venice Film Festival.
Valentino's True Colors Fly in Venice

>> Today, Valentino: The Last Emperor, Matt Tyrnauer's fly-on-the-wall documentary that follows the designer from June 2005 to June 2007, debuted at the Venice Film Festival. Valentino favorite Natalia Vodianova was in attendance, and Valentino successor Alessandra Facchinetti even showed up for support. 

The designer says that during filming, he didn't try to hide anything from the cameras, even when he got into a disagreement with his longtime business partner Giancarlo Giammetti:

When I work and I create, I am not very approachable. To . . . know everything I say was being recorded did irritate me. There were moments of anger, when somebody says something that I don't like, but I was completely myself from the beginning to the end and nothing was edited.

Director Tyrnauer praised Valentino for his willingness to be "wired" for two years and allowing himself to be depicted on film "warts and all," adding that there were very few times when he asked that the cameras be turned off: "They only screamed at us occasionally and we put most of it in the film."

One such moment?  When Valentino, exasperated by the chaos backstage at one of his shows, proclaims, "People must learn that they have to follow me. They must be down on their knees in front of me!"

Valentino had no editorial control over the film, and apparently isn't always portrayed in the best of lights, but Karl Lagerfeld seems to think the world of his fellow designer: “Compared to you, darling,” he says in the film, “the rest of us are making rags.”
*image: source

Anna Sui

>> INSIDER WIRE —Vintage designer pictures are always fun, and this one is no exception: Anna Sui in 1981, as captured by former Interview photographer Edo Bertoglio.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Vintage designer pictures are always fun, and this one is no exception: Anna Sui in 1981, as captured by former Interview photographer Edo Bertoglio. [Style Bubble]

Beauty

Coutorture Community's Must Reads 8/28

As much as you can try to deny it, Fall is rapidly approaching.

As much as you can try to deny it, Fall is rapidly approaching. Better start moving those items from the back of the closet to the front. Our Network Partners offer great advice on Fall styles in today's Must Read posts from: Male Style Review offers an in depth review of the new J. Crew men's store opening in Tribecca. From the design to the store's history, he's on top of it all. Who knew that a transition from traditional journalism to jewelry designer could be so easy? Eye 4 Style interviews Wendy Brandes, who did such a thing and is currently creating the jewelry for Christian Francis Roth's runway show. The Fall chill is in the air, and it's making Molly Cake look forward to warmer clothing and cooler climates. Rick Owens' Fall collection just happens to be perfect for Molly, and we admit it's piqued our interest as well. Remember the "it" bag craze that swept the nation when YSL release the Muse bag? A Few Goody Gum Drops has discovered they've created a clutch version of the handbag and she is fully amused. Beauty Secrets Revealed cooks up her own D.I.Y. hot oil treatment. Hot oil is amazing for treating fried and dried out hair.

Diane Von Furstenberg

CFDA Brings Booth, Hopes to Bring Diversity to the Tents

>> The CFDA wouldn't support the British Fashion Council requiring models to obtain a health certificate, but they will be putting up a booth in the lobby and backstage of the Bryant Park tents during New York Fashion Week.  In partnership with the Renfrew Center, a residential treatment facility for eating disorders, the booth will offer a clinician on site to answer any questions and provide referrals, information on the CFDA's current health guidelines, and an informational brochure on the signs and symptoms of eating disorders.  Visitors will also be able to sign a proclamation of support for the health guidelines — the list of over 300 signatures already includes Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, Derek Lam, Carolina Herrera, several editors, agents and models.

>> The CFDA wouldn't support the British Fashion Council requiring models to obtain a health certificate, but they will be putting up a booth in the lobby and backstage of the Bryant Park tents during New York Fashion Week. 

In partnership with the Renfrew Center, a residential treatment facility for eating disorders, the booth will offer a clinician on site to answer any questions and provide referrals, information on the CFDA's current health guidelines, and an informational brochure on the signs and symptoms of eating disorders. 

Visitors will also be able to sign a proclamation of support for the health guidelines — the list of over 300 signatures already includes Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, Derek Lam, Carolina Herrera, several editors, agents and models.

But health isn't the only issue on the CFDA's mind. Just last week, president Diane von Furstenberg and executive director Steven Kolb sent out a letter to the members, encouraging diversity on the runways:

We remain in full support of bringing more diversity to the runway and urge you to create shows that are truly multicultural. The fashion industry has great power. Together we can influence the vision of beauty so women can be celebrated no matter their size or skin color.

Only one short week and we'll see if either of these methods have any effects — somehow, I don't see the booth having any serious influence.
*image: source