Posts for July 7th 2008

Vogue

Mario Testino: The Picture of Humility, Integrity

>> As a well-established fashion photographer, Mario Testino apparently has no qualms about implying certain, less-than-flattering things about his competitors .

>> As a well-established fashion photographer, Mario Testino apparently has no qualms about implying certain, less-than-flattering things about his competitors . . . and even his clients, on the record.

In a three week-long diary documenting his work from late May to mid-June, Mario professes to be obsessed with British models, but also Toni Garrn:

She's 16 and may be the new Claudia Schiffer. She was also picked up by Calvin Klein, but when I saw their campaign I thought it looked . . . I thought you didn't really get her. A lot of campaigns transform the girl into what the designer wants. But when I met her I was so taken with her I was, like, 'Oh my God, Toni!' . . . I want . . . the girls to have a starring role. It was about them, not the designer.

The Spring 2008 Calvin Klein campaign he's referring to was photographed by Fabien Baron, who Mario clearly doesn't see eye-to-eye with; don't expect for any Testino-Interview collaborations anytime soon.

Mario also knows how to subtly bite the hand that feeds him:

Most of my work is for American Vogue. I shoot for it almost every issue. This is a magazine that sells 1.2m copies and is probably read by 3m. Its reach is so wide you have to be quite easily understood. Whereas British Vogue's aesthetics are different. You can't give them work that's too bland. It's got to have a certain humour; a certain fun.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but did he just call Vogue "bland"? You don't say . . .

Finally, just to reiterate what a wonderful, dedicated, and original photographer he is, Mario goes over how he comes up with his ideas:

The moment you accept a job, the responsibility is on you; if the photograph is not delivered, the only name that lingers is yours. That has its pros and cons. Pros in the sense that you can be at a shoot and an idea can come from the secretary or manicurist and you can benefit from it: when people remember the image, they don't know the manicurist gave you the idea.

Ah, the integrity.

*image: source

Vogue Italia

Today Show Segment Highlights Disparity Between Vogue Italia Editorial, Advertisements

»Ignoring that the models featured in the July 2008 Vogue Italia were referred to as "African American" on a Today Show segment this morning even though many aren't, the interesting point was brought up that most of the ads in the magazine don't feature black women [Elite Clips] »Sessilee Lopez: Before Vogue Italia, there was Project Runway [Fashionista] »Oh hi Julia von Boehm, Vanessa Traina [The Sartorialist] »Stefano Gabbana hosted Jennifer Lopez and family in Portofino over the weekend [PopSugar] »A breakdown of Maison Martin Margiela couture pieces and how long each took to make [Danny Daily] »Andre Leon Talley had a little knicker issue [Page Six] »Agyness Deyn and Albert Hammond, Jr. caught snogging [Daily Mail] 

»Ignoring that the models featured in the July 2008 Vogue Italia were referred to as "African American" on a Today Show segment this morning even though many aren't, the interesting point was brought up that most of the ads in the magazine don't feature black women [Elite Clips]

»Sessilee Lopez: Before Vogue Italia, there was Project Runway [Fashionista]

»Oh hi Julia von Boehm, Vanessa Traina [The Sartorialist]

»Stefano Gabbana hosted Jennifer Lopez and family in Portofino over the weekend [PopSugar]

»A breakdown of Maison Martin Margiela couture pieces and how long each took to make [Danny Daily]

»Andre Leon Talley had a little knicker issue [Page Six]

»Agyness Deyn and Albert Hammond, Jr. caught snogging [Daily Mail

Louis Vuitton

Katie Grand: A Picture of Fashion Greatness . . . and Fashion Anemia

>> Katie Grand is a classic case of one person being both a have and a have-not.  The stylist and founder of POP has become known as "Katie-Grand-a-Minute" for her £3,000-4,000 a day fees (which she makes a killing with, considering that she works 30-40 days a year for Louis Vuitton, 30 days for Loewe, and 30 days for "a big Italian name").  She has kept every piece of clothing she has ever owned since the age of 15, recently buying a bigger home just to house all the Alaia, Chanel, and Gap she's acquired over the years.  She's got it all — photographers so willing to be published in POP that they "often" "are using their own money," and a memory of Miuccia Prada "spinning round to Kylie [Minogue]" — except something of a more personal matter.

>> Katie Grand is a classic case of one person being both a have and a have-not.  The stylist and founder of POP has become known as "Katie-Grand-a-Minute" for her £3,000-4,000 a day fees (which she makes a killing with, considering that she works 30-40 days a year for Louis Vuitton, 30 days for Loewe, and 30 days for "a big Italian name"). 

She has kept every piece of clothing she has ever owned since the age of 15, recently buying a bigger home just to house all the Alaia, Chanel, and Gap she's acquired over the years.  She's got it all — photographers so willing to be published in POP that they "often" "are using their own money," and a memory of Miuccia Prada "spinning round to Kylie [Minogue]" — except something of a more personal matter.

From 15 to 25 I didn't really eat much. I just wanted to be thinner, but I couldn't get under eight stone [112 lbs] no matter what I did . . . I can remember meals I had during those years because they were so rare.

At 37, she's never had a period. She told The Guardian she's okay with it, because she doesn't want children, but when an editor like Katie is so blasé about something like that, it makes you understand why the fashion industry as a whole is so nonchalant about models and their health.

*image: source

Beauty

Coutorture Community's Must Reads 7/7

Designer interviews are some of the best ways to receive inspiration, career advice and insight into the world of fashion.
Designer interviews are some of the best ways to receive inspiration, career advice and insight into the world of fashion. Enjoy designer interviews in today's Must Read posts from: E-Stylist plans an outfit perfect for a Summer street safari. Fashionalities interviews designer Abigail Lorick. After a sizzling sun experience, Ma Petite Chou recommends a new yogurt based cooling gel. Fashion Fox points to a discretionary recession, based on a decline in teen sales. In another designer interview, O So Chic interviews Junkprints designer Chanel Kennebrew.
Iman

>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS —For those of you who are gobbling up every new image from the July 2008 Vogue Italia until the full issue appears, this video contains a few until-now unseen shots, including some of Chanel Iman, Sessilee Lopez, and Iman.

>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS —For those of you who are gobbling up every new image from the July 2008 Vogue Italia until the full issue appears, this video contains a few until-now unseen shots, including some of Chanel Iman, Sessilee Lopez, and Iman.

Keira Knightley

Vogue Hitting a Slump to Rival the Economy's?

>> After all the is-it-or-is-it-not-racist hoopla the April 2008 issue of Vogue, featuring LeBron James and Gisele Bundchen, caused, news that the issue only sold 350,000 copies on the newsstand does not bode well.  Patricularly because that number makes the issue Vogue's worst-selling April issue since 2001.  To make matters worse, the May 2008 issue, featuring a frigid Gwyneth Paltrow, sold even less: 310,000 copies (Vogue's 2007 average for the first half of the year was 452,207 issues sold).  Maybe (for Anna's sake) Keira Knightley's cover, shot by Mario Testino for the September 2008 issue, will fare better?

>> After all the is-it-or-is-it-not-racist hoopla the April 2008 issue of Vogue, featuring LeBron James and Gisele Bundchen, caused, news that the issue only sold 350,000 copies on the newsstand does not bode well.  Patricularly because that number makes the issue Vogue's worst-selling April issue since 2001. 

To make matters worse, the May 2008 issue, featuring a frigid Gwyneth Paltrow, sold even less: 310,000 copies (Vogue's 2007 average for the first half of the year was 452,207 issues sold).  Maybe (for Anna's sake) Keira Knightley's cover, shot by Mario Testino for the September 2008 issue, will fare better?

*image: source

spreads

Sample Sale Prices Online

It's Monday after a long-awaited three day weekend and it's entirely possible that your bank account is a reflection of that circumstance.

It's Monday after a long-awaited three day weekend and it's entirely possible that your bank account is a reflection of that circumstance. Especially at this time in the season, we're curious about the markdowns online and to just what lengths retailers are willing to go to move product. Our spread below includes items marked down 70% off and greater, which means even if you were drinking fourteen dollar glasses of champagne all weekend, shop you just might. Even though we know and believe in the power of ecommerce we still think, especially when it comes to a sale, chicsters are hard pressed to wrap their mind around the deal. If a Marc by Marc Jacobs yellow rain slicker was offered at a sample sale, marked down from $548 to $163, you better believe women would be fighting for the offer. Online, however, we can't help but think these deals get buried in the hundreds of items marked down for the season. Well, that's what you have posts like these for! (P.s. Of all the online retailers we covet, shopbop has over seven hundred items marked down at 70% or greater. Yes, that means Derek Lam handbags for less than $500.)

Kate Moss

>> INSIDER WIRE —Sir Philip Green loves his Topshop designer-cum-cash-cow Kate Moss so much, when he arrived at the opening of Mario Testino's new exhibition last Wednesday, he proudly announced that he had bought a black-and-white print of Kate holding a cigarette and was "going to hang it on the wall of [his] office." [WWD] *image: source

>> INSIDER WIRE —Sir Philip Green loves his Topshop designer-cum-cash-cow Kate Moss so much, when he arrived at the opening of Mario Testino's new exhibition last Wednesday, he proudly announced that he had bought a black-and-white print of Kate holding a cigarette and was "going to hang it on the wall of [his] office." [WWD]

*image: source

Agyness Deyn

Explained: Agyness Deyn Jumping Nude From NY Fire Escape

>> Back in May, we saw pictures of Agyness Deyn jumping nude off a fire escape for Ryan McGinley and POP magazine.

>> Back in May, we saw pictures of Agyness Deyn jumping nude off a fire escape for Ryan McGinley and POP magazine. Now, POP editor-in-chief Katie Grand has more details on the how and the why:

[Ryan] sent me this reference photograph of kids falling off a fire escape (left)— it was from the 1950s I think — and said he'd really like to have [Agyness] falling. And naked. So we ended up with two stunt men and Agyness jumping naked from five stories onto a huge huge crash mat. It was incredible.

Shoes

Make a Pointed Statement at Work

Summer dress codes can make the mind reel, particularly when one works a proper office job.
Summer dress codes can make the mind reel, particularly when one works a proper office job. Open toed shoes are naturally one of the trickiest pieces to integrate into an office appropriate wardrobe. These plebian concerns are ones rarely raised by fashionistas. But we feel like we heard the siren call of reason today from network partner Kingdom of Style. Well, OK maybe not reason but certainly a dissenting viewpoint we wish to espouse. Queen Michelle is tired of toe friendly options like open top, peep toe and round toe shoes. She is primed for the return of the pointy toe, and certainly brings up many daring and overbearing shoes. We are going to take this opinion and say we too are tired of toe barring shoes (conveniently leaving out the round toe quip) despite it being midsummer. A pair of pointy toed pumps is exactly what an office bound girl needs to shake things up. Think how sexy you will feel wearing a pair of red spike pumps with pointed toe while everyone else around you is letting it all hang out. Because really just how much cooling help are you getting from having bare toes? Cover them up and strut! A little pinching aside, we think it sends the message that you are ready for business no matter what the weather.