>> IN PRODUCTION —Topshop is known for cultivating collaborations with edgy, up-and-coming designers, but come Nov. 20, they're taking it a step further — they've put into production the knit-tastic graduate collection of Simone Shailes, who just started at Celine under Phoebe Philo. Since graduate collections don't tend to influence the trickle-down or even get put into production in the first place, this concept could be golden — especially in this case, when loopy knits and metal plate belts are involved. [Style Bubble, Dazed Digital]
Posts for November 18th 2008
>> Alexander McQueen's new McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collaboration was a shock to many — but the line, all priced under $129.99, makes sense to the designer, especially in these tight times: "I wasn’t born with a silver spoon in my mouth."
He was hesistant about the prospect at first — "I've never understood Target" — but he chose to launch a new designer initiative with Target over say, working with H&M or Topshop, because its just part of his renegade style: "We’d always been approached by people like H&M and other high street [retailers] in England to do things. I’m not very fond of following the norm. I didn’t want to follow Stella [McCartney] at H&M or Karl Lagerfeld at H&M. I didn’t see the point of it. I like to infiltrate an area that’s not really aware of me, as such."
That targeted area? The Midwest: "Apart from the East and West Coasts, my company doesn’t have any visibility in the US. I always liked the idea of people in the Midwest wearing my clothes. There is no way the main line could go to Middle America. I’m not getting any [benefit from the Target association] for the main line. This is a great taste of McQ in areas where it doesn’t exist."
But enjoy the opportunity while it lasts, McQueen doesn't expect to make this a habit: "Target is just one season. I don’t like to repeat myself. It’s a one-off and that makes it an eclectic collection. It’s great as pieces that will never exist again, and for me it’s a good marketing strategy. If I do it all the time, it dilutes the concept."
>> MODA OPERANDI —One year after taking over at Cacharel, Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto, or Eley Kishimoto, are on their way out — Spring 2009 was their last collection. Both parties labeled the split as amicable, but the designers noted that there was "a conflict over creative vision" and differences about "where the line should be going." No surprise here — it can't be easy to design under the label's CEO Jean Bousquet, who founded and used to design the label himself. [WWD]
From lip gloss to social commentary, our Network Partners have explored every topic in the blogosphere today--
A Mom In Red High Heels clued us into a sweet holiday promotion to help those in need. Write a letter to Santa and Macy's donates one dollar to the Make A Wish Foundation.
The Daily Obsession goes through a girl's gloss options and gives us the low down on a cosmetic brand with everything to offer. It's all about the pigment ratio, ladies.
Choose from Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, John Galliano, Christian Dior, Chanel, Hermés, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Lie Sang Bong, Celine, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Leonard, Ungaro, Chloé, and Elie Saab. Click on the tags below to see the designer's individual Paris Fashion Week Spring 2009 collection.
>> Is Anna Wintour ready to put the cap at twenty years of Vogue? Her contract is said to be up soon, according to a Page Six source, and she's thinking of retiring: "She feels she's done it all and had enough. She has been putting out feelers to intimate friends recommending a possible replacement to Si Newhouse. She's so tired out, she just let Men's Vogue close instead of fighting for it."
This news is especially timely, since Vogue's decreasing ad numbers just came out, and Si Newhouse is about to take his annual month-long European sabbatical in December — the one where he figures out what at Conde Nast needs fixing and then comes back in January, the month when he typically hires and fires, making big changes at the company.
Si is famous for his dislike of confrontation, and many of his editors in the past have said their first inkling of trouble was when they were fired — the editor Anna replaced at Vogue, Grace Mirabella, was never given a reason for her dismissal, and found out about it from a television report.
Sudden and unforeseen dismissal doesn't seem a way Anna would want to go — she always has to be on top of her game — so retirement seems more in character. A rep denies the reports, but I'm more curious about these replacements she's suggested. Honestly, who could instill the fascination and fear that Anna can?
Last night we attended an event put on by Elle Decor called Women In Design in which women all of all ages grabbed some sparkling water and white wine and listened to a panel discussion about interior design and architecture from the female standpoint. On the panel were, Annabelle Seldorf, Bunny Williams, Celerie Kemble, and fashion designer Cynthia Rowley. Rowley talked about her move from an all-white loft apartment (pre-children) to a townhouse with hardwood floors (post-children) and the tendency for elements of her collection to make their way into her home decor. The event included Elle Decor's first annual award for outstanding achievement in design, called the Vision Award, which was earned by Paula S. Wallace, who is the co-founder and President of the largest art and design college in America, namely, Savannah College of Art and Design. The women, led in discussion by Elle Decor's Editor in Chief, Margaret Russell (left), spoke about a range of topics including the recession and the challenges of working with demanding clients. Although not much of the conversation focused, in particular, on their perspectives as women, the point was taken that those who sat on the stage had more than earned their powerful positions in design. To read press literature from the event, click here.
>> INSIDER WIRE —For his Chanel Pre-Fall Paris-Moscow collection, Karl Lagerfeld is pulling a Stefano Pilati. The presentation Dec. 3 — in Paris at the Theatre du Ranelagh, not in Moscow — will open with a "laugh-packed" silent movie, loosely based on Coco Chanel's life between 1913 and 1923. Lagerfeld muses Lady Amanda Harlech, Brad Kroenig, and Tallulah Ormsby-Gore are all involved — Tallulah plays a Chanel model who has to sell her real-life mother, Amanda, a hat. [WWD, WWD]
Of all the crop tops and ruffled tanks we've seen from contemporary lines this season, those by Quail really got our hearts racing--they were just the right length with layer upon layer of ruffles running down the back and they came in colored silks of emerald green, black, and chalky pink. Paired with androgynous trousers or tough statement heels, these soft pieces will balance out your Spring 09 look perfectly. Otherwise, there were full, short skirts, flutter sleeve dresses, and cocktail frocks that also came in a range of colors and could likewise be styled with the tougher side of Spring quite well. Check out the Quail Spring 2009 look book right here, and, our photos from the showroom right here.