>> THE MODELIZER —Over the weekend, someone snatched up the Pete Doherty blood-stained, lipstick-drawn self portrait by Kate Moss. It failed to sell at auction originally, but a private buyer did pick it up for $61,850 . . . not bad for a cheap-canvassed doodle. [BellaSugar]
Martin Margiela Looks Back over Twenty Maison Years for Spring 2009
>> In what could very well be his last collection, given all the rumors about his exit, Martin Margiela went the retrospective route for his twentieth anniversary collection — it would be a very fitting end, no? All of the models were faceless — a nod to the designer's obsession with anonymity — and the house uniform, a white lab coat, came out in various forms, including during the final bow, when the entire staff emerged on the runway rather than Margiela himself. A hit parade of plastic bags, disco balls, bustier catsuits, Barbie clothes, and AIDS T-shirts led into the final look: a giant silk birthday cake, with two pairs of legs underneath. Was it Margiela's final look ever?
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Under him, the company invested cannily in young designers, including Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. Though Ford insists he takes "absolutely no credit" for the success those three have had since, Ghesquière nearly welled up when I asked about Ford and said the designer "taught me everything".
>> THE MODELIZER —Iselin Steiro hasn't walked in any major shows since Balenciaga Fall 2007, but this season may change that all — the still very in-demand model, who has in the meantime been in school, was spotted in Paris this morning, "obviously in town for shows . . . or is that A SHOW." [Of the Minute]
Alessandra Facchinetti On the Outs at Valentino?
>> It's never a good thing when rumors are swirling about your departure right before you debut a collection. But that's just the case for Alessandra Facchinetti, whose Spring 2009 collection for Valentino debuts on Thursday — word is it may be her last.
"I heard they are giving her one more show," a "top editor" told Fashion Week Daily, echoing the sentiments of "several other industry insiders." Since Facchinetti's announcement as Valentino's successor last September, her reception has been only so-so. In fact, one "well-placed Valentino insider" is even implying that she was always meant to be temporary, to "pave the way for Valentino's successor to 'save' the iconic house."
Giambattista Valli has been fingered as that savior; As for any confirmation, a Valentino spokesperson would only refer to the rumors as "inconsistent," whatever that means.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —For all the designer upheaval that is continually happening elsewhere, there is one designer that won't be going anywhere anytime soon. John Galliano has just inked a "long-term extension" of his contract at Dior, with only one new change — Dior will be integrating Galliano's eponymous brand, with emphasis on a close partnership. [WWD]
Gareth Pugh On Par in Paris for Spring 2009
>> Gareth Pugh proved he was worthy of Paris on Saturday, with both showpiece and showroom piece on display during his first major stage entree. Inspired by Hamlet's Ophelia, with Elizabethan collar and a little Storm Trooper mixed in, Pugh is earning comparisons as a new-age Claude Montana or Thierry Mugler. But most importantly, he was well-received into the top tier; As Suzy Menkes put it, "Pugh is zooming toward his own fashion future." Now don't forget to check out those newly-commercialized shoes of his . . .
>> INSIDER WIRE — Is Katie Grand moving away from POP and toward Conde Nast? So say the unfounded rumors, which place POP's founding editor leaving her project in the dust — the editor she supposedly offered it to turned the job down — to start up a new magazine for Conde. [Fashionista]
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Martin Margiela to Leave Maison Imminently?
>> Martin Margiela may rarely speak out, but over the weekend, plenty of people were doing some talking for him. As the designer prepares for his twentieth anniversary Maison Martin Margiela show this evening, rumors are swirling that he is about to exit fashion entirely.
Over the last year, Margiela has told colleagues that he wants to stop designing and is looking for a successor, and two designers have admitted to be in talks with Renzo Rosso, who owns Maison Martin Margiela. One of those designers may be Raf Simons, who earlier this year discussed the possibility of replacing Margiela before ultimately deciding to stay at Jil Sander.
Although some of Margiela's colleagues disagree, Renzo Rosso said last week that "for a long time [Margiela] has a strong team and does not work on the collection, just on special projects," which if true, leaves the potential new designer with an open door.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Legendary for their skyscraping heels, the Vogue Paris team threw an unexpected curve ball over the weekend. Carine Roitfeld, Geraldine Saglio, and Emmanuelle Alt all showed up at Gareth Pugh in little black flats — I wonder if there was a memo? [Jak & Jil]



