>> Matthew Williamsontook his final bow as the artistic director of Emilio Pucci earlier today — Peter Dundas will replace him Oct. 1 — but the reasoning for why he's leaving the company has been nothing more than he wants more time to focus on his namesake label — until now.
As the Guardian's Imogen Fox enlightens us, "recently there have been criticisms that the Pucci label was starting to look more like [Matthew Williamson's] signature line and less like a distinctive Pucci collection." The Pucci bosses are also rumored to be less than happy with all the multitasking and travelling Williamson was doing, and "in a recent interview Laudomia Pucci, daughter of the company's founder Emilio, stated how important it is that Dundas will be based in Florence." So among all the bright and happy Pucci prints, there was more than a little unrest . . . *image: source
>> THE MODELIZER —Several models haven't shown up in Milan shows they normally walk in, but at least we have an explanation for one of them. Catherine McNeil is this season's Sasha Pivovarova — her Sydney agent says that she is "unwell" and will miss Milan and most likely Paris, too. [Frockwriter]
>> Crazy bird's nest hair aside, Spring 2009 Fendi is quite pretty. And actually, the hair grows on you, too, if you digest it for a minute. The femininity of laser-cut eyelet, full skirted dresses, and sheer pencil skirt petticoats underneath is juxtaposed with bold, graphic corset belts and neon bright underpinnings. Suzy Menkes wasn't such a fan of the styling, calling it "a weird cross breed of sport and lingerie," and neither was WWD, who said the belts "maimed the middle of all too many looks," but I think it goes quite well, keeps things unexpected. Now if only Karl Lagerfeld had edited out that one look that is like Prada Fall 2008 redux . . . because Karl, you're better than that.
>> INSIDER WIRE—I think it's safe to say that three weeks in, Fashion Month is starting to wear on the fashion crowd. First, all the comparisons of Gucci to Zara yesterday, and now, the puppy Anna Maria Jagodzinska carried down the Spring 2009 Dolce & Gabbana runway this morning elicited a few coos, but also some select sarcasm: "The puppy itself wasn’t wearing any gear, and wasn’t labeled as part of Dolce & Gabbana’s product line-up, so presumably is not available to order with next spring’s collection." [WSJ]
As the dramas unfold with each news bulletin, the international fashion season is looking like a metaphor for the state of the world: models on super-high heels tumbling in tandem with the markets; perforated materials to signal holes in the economy; some designers carrying on blithely as if nothing is happening; others trying to build a new geometry in aging edifices.
>> Founded or unfounded, the buzz about Russian Vogue editor Aliona Doletskaya as Anna Wintour's successor continues to grow, especially since The New York Timesbrought the possibility up earlier this month while Aliona was in town attending New York Fashion Week.
Page Six is reporting today that Elle has finally surpassed Vogue by 66 ad pages in the October issues — not good for Anna, especially when earlier this week in Moscow, Aliona was introduced as "The next editor of American Vogue." It all seems a little suspect to me — Freudian slip, maybe? —but here's a May profile video of Aliona in case you want to get to know her and her smoker's voice a little better. She and Anna have at least one thing in common — they both love their fur.
Anna, meanwhile, is carrying on with her duties in Milan, where last night, she (randomly) dined alongside Matthew McConaughey and his girlfriend. *images: source
>> A LITTLE TURN ON THE CATWALK —There have been Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell sightings aplenty in this supermodel revival season, but this morning's Charlie's Angels-themed Dsquared2 Spring 2009 show brought a trio of another kind — Esther Canadas, Fernanda Tavares and Nadege du Bospertus — to open the show together and close one after another. [WWD]
>> INSIDER WIRE —Looks like Tom Ford is as obsessed with the look of Mad Men as the rest of us — word is he's brought in the production designers for the hit series to work on the look of his debut movie, an adaptation of A Single Man, which starts filming in November and is expected to wrap by the end of the year. In the meantime, he's also appearing on the cover of the new German Vanity Fair. [E! Online, TFS]
>> The Spring 2009 Prada falls have become a tale of epic proportions, but there's one more video before we can let it rest. It explains why poor Katie Fogarty — a Prada exclusive, too — ended up just taking her shoes (slash torture devices) off and walking the rest of the runway barefoot. Oh, and in case you were wondering — the shoes are going to be commercially produced with those slippery socks; Prada is considering fusing the socks to the insoles to prevent slippage. For their sake, I hope it works . . .
fashionologie is the musings of a twenty-something American girl who wishes she could have a Freaky Friday incident and switch bodies with Carine Roitfeld.